Secondary for dry hopping?

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NOISEpollution

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I currently have an IPA with Trappist yeast brewing. It's only a few days into fermentation. I know the whole secondary question has been beaten to death but if I plan on dry hopping should I do that in the secondary? I plan on dry hopping with an ounce of whole cascade after three weeks for seven days. I use a carboy for secondary and a bucket for primary so it'd be a lot easier for me to just throw the hop sack in the bucket although if dry hopping in secondary will make some sort of noticeable difference to taste or quality then I wouldn't mind putting the hop sack in the carboy.

Also, anyone have any better ideas for the dry hopping schedule. My hop schedule in the boil was 1 oz magnum 60 min, 1 oz centennial 45 min, 1/2 oz centennial 30 min, 1/2 oz amarillo gold 10 min, then 1/4 oz amarillo gold 0 min. I have an oz of cascade that I plan on dry hopping all at once. Any better ideas?
 
I dry hop in a secondary. Matter of fact... I've got an Amber Ale dry hoppin' in a secondary . Just huck the Cascades in the secondary and rack the beer in with it. Let it sit as long as you like.

Go for it!

Gary
 
Your hop schedule looks fine. I've heard some say that cascade can develop a grassy taste if dry hopped for more than two weeks. I've dry hopped with cascade for 11 days and never noticed a grassy taste.

I dry hop in primary. IMO you don't gain anything by transferring the beer to secondary, so why bother?
 
I believe the norm is to dry hop in the secondary, but I was in a hurry the other day and didn't have time to transfer so I just dry hopped in the primary. I can't imagine this will hurt anything, but I am still a newb. I am cold crashing the batch right now and plan to keg it Saturday.
 
respectfully disagree. I've done it both ways, and I feel that some of the flavor gets 'caught' in the trub - or something... When I dry-hop in a secondary, the hops are brighter, more pronounced.

I stick to one fermenter unless I'm dry-hopping.


So...as you can see, NOISEPollution, it's entirely up to you.
 
I've dry hopped twice in primary. No issues really and I didn't notice much difference between primary and secondary (done that 3 or 4 times). The one nice thing about secondary is there is less exposure to oxygen if you wait until fermenatation is over.

When I dry hopped in primary I tried to add the hops at the very tail end of active fermentation so the headspace filled up with CO2 again. I'm talking the one burp every minute or two type activity. Worked well IMO.
 
Thanks guys. Since I'm using whole hops I should use a hop sack right? My concern was that it'd be a pain to get that thing out of a carboy.
 
I'm getting ready to do my first dry-hopped beer right now and I plan on doing it in the secondary fermenter. I don't plan on using a hop sack, I'll just throw the hops right into the carboy and then when I rack most of the hops should get left behind.
 
I have used a hop sack for pellet or whole (whole works better). A pretty good $4 or 5 investment I think.

That being said my first 3 were without and it works okay.
 
Unless you are washing and re-using your yeast, there is no reason to rack to secondary for dry-hopping.

Talk to me please... So I should have racked to a secondary for dry hopping if my intention is to dump a fresh batch or wort on that yeast cake? What problems, if any will I have if I do go ahead and dump a new wort on it?

Sorry for the slight hijack o.p.
 
Talk to me please... So I should have racked to a secondary for dry hopping if my intention is to dump a fresh batch or wort on that yeast cake? What problems, if any will I have if I do go ahead and dump a new wort on it?

Sorry for the slight hijack o.p.

if it's the same recipe, no problems, but it's sitting on extra hops during the ferment (hard to separate hops and yeast from trub)

If it's a nice chocolate porter, it might have more hop character than you anticipated - (left over from previous batch, embedded in trub)
 
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