Mash pH predictions

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Gnomebrewer

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Firstly....my apologies for the long post. I hope someone has the patience to read it.

After a few years and over 100 batches brewed, I've decided to progress from using the guidelines in the "Brewing Water Chemistry Primer" to using a water calculator and making some more precise decisions. The primer has given me really good results (including a few firsts in local competitions), but I feel that I could get even better (and more consistent) beer by making the change.

So, I've spend many hours over the past few days with four calculators (Bru'n water; EZ water; Brewers friend; and Palmers RA calculator/nomograph). They all give quite different results (a pH variation of about 0.3) so my intention is to brew a few batches and see which is closest for my system, then donate to that calculator and continue using it.

I brew with rainwater in a very clean part of the world (Tasmania, Australia), which can be considered close to a blank slate. I've measured it's pH a few times, with results between 6.6 and 6.9 (using a calibrated TPS pH cube).

The first brew I'm planning to use the calculators for is a simple English bitter:
12L of mash water, 4.1kg of ale malt, 0.25kg of medium crystal, 0.06kg of carafa 3 (for colour; colour about 9SRM). I would like to use 3g of gypsum and 2g of Calcium chloride in the mash (possibly). With these additions, I get the following estimates:
BW: pH = 5.3; EZ: pH = 5.64; BF: pH = 5.50; Palmer: need to increase RA by at least 60.

So, BF says I'm good, BW and Palmer say I need to add alkalinity, EZ says I need to add acid.

What are thoughts on where I should start? (note: I'll have HCl on hand to reduce pH if needed, and bicarb soda to increase pH, but I'd rather not do so once I've already mashed in).

Should I start with some bicarb in the mash?
Should I remove the salts entirely from the mash (as per Martin's sticky about soft water brewing)? Is calcium needed in the mash? Palmer's RA calculator still says I'd need some alkalinity.
Should I add some acid malt? This would match the stickied primer
Should I stick with the gypsum and CaCl2 in the mash?

I've ready a lot of reports that BW and BF are more accurate than EZ, but most are using hard water. Does anyone have experience comparing calculators with very soft water?
 
I have been using EZwater for several batches with great results. (I used a PH meter until it quit working.) EZwater recommends a mash PH between 5.5 and 5.6. I ignore that and adjust to 5.2 or 5.25 using acidulated malt after salts get me into range on CA, SO, CL & MG.

Out of curiosity, do you do a conventional mash or BIAB? I'm just getting set to switch to BIAB and haven't seen much on water adjustments for BIAB.
 
Firstly....my apologies for the long post. I hope someone has the patience to read it.

After a few years and over 100 batches brewed, I've decided to progress from using the guidelines in the "Brewing Water Chemistry Primer" to using a water calculator and making some more precise decisions. The primer has given me really good results (including a few firsts in local competitions), but I feel that I could get even better (and more consistent) beer by making the change.

So, I've spend many hours over the past few days with four calculators (Bru'n water; EZ water; Brewers friend; and Palmers RA calculator/nomograph). They all give quite different results (a pH variation of about 0.3) so my intention is to brew a few batches and see which is closest for my system, then donate to that calculator and continue using it.

I brew with rainwater in a very clean part of the world (Tasmania, Australia), which can be considered close to a blank slate. I've measured it's pH a few times, with results between 6.6 and 6.9 (using a calibrated TPS pH cube).

The first brew I'm planning to use the calculators for is a simple English bitter:
12L of mash water, 4.1kg of ale malt, 0.25kg of medium crystal, 0.06kg of carafa 3 (for colour; colour about 9SRM). I would like to use 3g of gypsum and 2g of Calcium chloride in the mash (possibly). With these additions, I get the following estimates:
BW: pH = 5.3; EZ: pH = 5.64; BF: pH = 5.50; Palmer: need to increase RA by at least 60.

So, BF says I'm good, BW and Palmer say I need to add alkalinity, EZ says I need to add acid.

What are thoughts on where I should start? (note: I'll have HCl on hand to reduce pH if needed, and bicarb soda to increase pH, but I'd rather not do so once I've already mashed in).

Should I start with some bicarb in the mash?
Should I remove the salts entirely from the mash (as per Martin's sticky about soft water brewing)? Is calcium needed in the mash? Palmer's RA calculator still says I'd need some alkalinity.
Should I add some acid malt? This would match the stickied primer
Should I stick with the gypsum and CaCl2 in the mash?

I've ready a lot of reports that BW and BF are more accurate than EZ, but most are using hard water. Does anyone have experience comparing calculators with very soft water?

In my experience EZ is almost always at least .3 from the actual, so I would disregard that one.

A mash pH of 5.3 to 5.5 is ideal. RA is immaterial, as it is the mash pH you are concerned with. You almost never would need to alkalinity to a brew, but certainly not with that grainbill.
 
Out of curiosity, do you do a conventional mash or BIAB? I'm just getting set to switch to BIAB and haven't seen much on water adjustments for BIAB.

I use a HERMS.

I don't think water adjustments would be any different for BIAB than they are for conventional mashes (unless maybe the finer crush makes a difference). The difference would be full volume mash vs. a more traditional mash thickness. The calculators all allow you to input the water volume and grain mass (and presumably account for the increased pH from doing a full volume mash).
 
In my experience EZ is almost always at least .3 from the actual, so I would disregard that one.

A mash pH of 5.3 to 5.5 is ideal. RA is immaterial, as it is the mash pH you are concerned with. You almost never would need to alkalinity to a brew, but certainly not with that grainbill.

Thanks Yooper. That helps a lot.
If I ignore EZ, I don't need acid malt.
If I ignore Palmers RA calculator, I don't need alkalinity.
 
I would not want to use HCl to modify the pH

Lactic or phosphoric acid or acidulated malt will work for this task without the associated dangers of handling.

Forget the term RA. It's not your friend.

Bru'n Water is a very accurate tool. Usually it's within 0.1 of measured mash pH for me. Not used EZ water.

Here is how approach water profiles and mash pH FWIW
 
I would not want to use HCl to modify the pH

Lactic or phosphoric acid or acidulated malt will work for this task without the associated dangers of handling.

Forget the term RA. It's not your friend.

Bru'n Water is a very accurate tool. Usually it's within 0.1 of measured mash pH for me. Not used EZ water.

Here is how approach water profiles and mash pH FWIW

Thanks Gavin. I've just got the OK from my wife to brew this afternoon, so I'll find out if Bru'n water works for me as well.
 
Thanks Gavin. I've just got the OK from my wife to brew this afternoon, so I'll find out if Bru'n water works for me as well.

No worries mate. Happy brewing.

:off:

How's the weather in Tassie. Summer kicking in yet?

Really enjoyed James Boags when I lived in QLD. My cousin in Sydney turned me on to it after always giving me grief for drinking XXXX. In his debt, LOL. I'm sure there are a ton of other good local ones to be had in Hobart.

306305-the-footy-show.jpg
 
No worries mate. Happy brewing.

:off:

How's the weather in Tassie. Summer kicking in yet?

Really enjoyed James Boags when I lived in QLD. My cousin in Sydney turned me on to it after always giving me grief for drinking XXXX. In his debt, LOL. I'm sure there are a ton of other good local ones to be had in Hobart.

306305-the-footy-show.jpg

Summer in Tassie is from Jan 3rd to Jan 8th:) A bit different to QLD.

Actually, it's been quite warm (for Tassie) since September; the forecast is for a long, hot, dry summer.

Boags draught is definitely the best pale macro lager in Oz (of course I'm biased). Micro's are opening every month in Hobart at the moment - it was only a few years ago there were 6 to 8 breweries in the whole state. Unfortunately, not all of them are making quality products (some are fantastic though).
 
I use a HERMS.

I don't think water adjustments would be any different for BIAB than they are for conventional mashes (unless maybe the finer crush makes a difference). The difference would be full volume mash vs. a more traditional mash thickness. The calculators all allow you to input the water volume and grain mass (and presumably account for the increased pH from doing a full volume mash).

Thanks.
I was just thinking of possible differences in reactions that may occur at the higher water/grain ratios in the mash. It seems that many of the negatives that were imagined about BIAB have turned out to be untrue. Almost all of the available info deals with those rather than technical details. I'm just doing some final fishing for anything that may aid in the transition.

Have a good one!
 
Thanks for all the feedback.
I brewed this beer this afternoon (a day earlier than planned). Based on the responses, I kept the gypsum and CaCl2 (2g each), but didn't add acid malt or bicarb soda. The recipe was slightly different to what I posted above (replaced the carafa with Simpsons dark crystal, to make something similar to 'Common Room ESB'). BW predicted a pH of 5.3, BF 5.51 and EZ 5.63. The actual pH (room temp, 15mins in to mash) was 5.39, 5.42 and 5.38 (three separate samples) - about halfway between BW and BF.

Thanks again.
 
In my experience EZ is almost always at least .3 from the actual, so I would disregard that one.

Sorry to bump and old post, but thought I'd share...

I just found this to be true myself. Yesterday I used EZ Water to determine that I needed 3.5 oz of acidulated malt to bring my mash PH down to 5.4. When I checked my OG at the end, I missed my OG by .13 (1.065-1.053)! I've never missed by this much before. I re-ran my profile again using Bru N' Water, with the exact same grain bill that I used with EZ Water and my PH is calculated at 5.1. This seems to explain why I missed my OG by so much. Next time Gadget...
 
Sorry to bump and old post, but thought I'd share...

I just found this to be true myself. Yesterday I used EZ Water to determine that I needed 3.5 oz of acidulated malt to bring my mash PH down to 5.4. When I checked my OG at the end, I missed my OG by .13 (1.065-1.053)! I've never missed by this much before. I re-ran my profile again using Bru N' Water, with the exact same grain bill that I used with EZ Water and my PH is calculated at 5.1. This seems to explain why I missed my OG by so much. Next time Gadget...

Have you tried to modify the default DI pH values of the grains listed in EZ Water? Changing the EZ Water default values, to the maltsters stated DI pH value for each grain, will change the calculated pH value to closer match the actual mash pH value.
 

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