Naturally Carbonated Lager

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Beerme01

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With Lagers I have made in the past, I have never brought the lagering temp down close to freezing, nor have I lagered for a full 3 weeks for fear of putting the yeast in a dormant state that they will never come out of. My Dillema has always been this because I naturally carbonate my beer and currently have no kegging system.

Is it OK to go ahead and drop the temp close to freezing for 3 weeks, then prime and bottle, or will I need to add more yeast before bottling if I do this?
:mug:
 
I have never had any issues priming and bottling as normal. I always allow the bottles to condition at room temp for a few weeks before cooling and drinking.
 
You can add fresh yeast to the bottling bucket and it will carbonate faster. The kind of yeast doesn't really matter and it doesn't take very much. Just a few grams of dry yeast will do. The Germans add fresh yeast by Kraeusening. It adheres to the purity law and yields more predictable bottle conditioning times. I don't see much of an advantage over using sugar and new yeast but it's interesting to read about. Check out BrauKaiser.com. It's almost entirely about lagers.
 
+ 1 on Kaisers site

The technique is called green racking, worked great on a Dunkel I did recently.
You MUST do a fast ferment test though.
Since I started doing the FF test I havent brewed without doing one.
 
Is it OK to go ahead and drop the temp close to freezing for 3 weeks, then prime and bottle, or will I need to add more yeast before bottling if I do this?
:mug:

No need for that. Just prime and bottle after your diacetyl rest, give it 2-3 weeks to carbonate, and then lager it in the bottles after its carbonated.
 
After primary and a diacetyl rest, is there any difference in quality by racking & lagering in a secondary VS. priming, bottling and lagering while bottle conditioning? I know it may not carb up due to the cold temps, but after lagering is complete couldn't the bottles just be pulled out and rested a room temp? I'm thinking of an okterberfest which will not be opened for 6 months or so...and this wouldn't tie up my secondary for 2 months.
 
You can lager at near freezing temps for a long time and still bottle carbonate without adding yeast. I've lagered at 30°F for 6 weeks, bottled without adding yeast (except maybe getting a little bit of secondary sediment on purpose) and the bottles still carbed up fine... maybe slightly slower, but not by that much. I would add yeast if lagering more than 6 weeks just to be on the safe side.

Bulk lagering is preferred for two reasons:
1. It gives the beer a more consistent flavor/quality.
2. It's difficult to gauge how much sugar to add if bottle-lagering. More CO2 may be produced during lagering (without adding sugar). You can get an unexpected high carbonation or, worst case, bottle bombs.
 
I also have just began fermenting a lager (bock type clone I guess) and I was wondering the same thing. I have gotten different advice and suggestions, and I don't know if there is any hard evidence that will help me choose one of the following options I have layed out ahead of me:

1. finish primary\diacetyl test. rack to glass carboy and lager in fridge for about a month or so. Remove, prime, and bottle condition at room temp for about 3 weeks, and then refrigerate

or

2. finish primary\diacetyl test. prime and bottle condition at room temp for about 3 weeks and then refrigerate for X amount of time.

Some people would say #1. and some would say just do #2. (giggle).
 
I also have just began fermenting a lager (bock type clone I guess) and I was wondering the same thing. I have gotten different advice and suggestions, and I don't know if there is any hard evidence that will help me choose one of the following options I have layed out ahead of me:

1. finish primary\diacetyl test. rack to glass carboy and lager in fridge for about a month or so. Remove, prime, and bottle condition at room temp for about 3 weeks, and then refrigerate

or

2. finish primary\diacetyl test. prime and bottle condition at room temp for about 3 weeks and then refrigerate for X amount of time.

Some people would say #1. and some would say just do #2. (giggle).

#1 is definitely more ideal... except lager longer. If the OG is around 1.068, I would lager for ~8 weeks.
 
#1 is definitely more ideal... except lager longer. If the OG is around 1.068, I would lager for ~8 weeks.

Not to hijack the thread, but my extract kit recipe was titled "yummy bock" and it seems to be a shiner bock clone as someone else had said.

1.060 OG
 
Kaiser said:
lagers and bottle conditioning
When bottle conditioning lager beer, there are 2 options for the brewer:

  • bottle the beer after the primary fermentation and maturation is complete and lager the beer in the bottle
  • bottle the beer after the lagering is complete
Both have their pros and cons

bottle conditioning before lagering
When you bottle condition before lagering, you wait until the beer has completed fermentation and prime the beer with corn sugar or DME. Since the yeast is still fairly healthy and active there shouldn't be any problems in getting the beer carbonated. Let the beer caronate at room temperature for a week. Give it a taste to ensure complete carbonation before moving it to cold storage 32 - 42 *F (0 - 5 *C) to lager it.

Because the beer is bottled before lagering, all the yeast and other sediment that settles out during lagering will remain in the bottle.

bottle conditioning after lagering
If you plan to bottle after lagering, as suggested in Noonan's Book "New Brewing Lager Beer", you lager the beer in a carboy first. This may take 4 weeks to a few months depending on the beer. Because the yeast has been inactive for such a long time and only little yeast is in suspension anyway, it is recommended to add fresh yeast at bottling time to ensure consistent carbonation in a reasonable time frame. The fresh yeast can come from either dry yeast (1/4 pack should be enough), yeast sediment from the primary fermenter of another batch or Kraeusen. The type of yeast doesn't matter much since the flavor has already been defined during the fermentation and lagering process. Any clean well flocculating ale or lager yeast will do.

When racking from the lagering vessel to the bottling bucket make sure that as little sediment as possible is transferred since the advantage of this method is to leave all this behind and have the beer benefit from bulk-aging.
Fermenting Lagers - German Brewing Techniques
I think Kai said it better than anyone else.
 

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