Brainstorming my sculpture design.

I'm tired of screwing around with makeshift brewing equipment. I'm building a brew sculpture.

Here are my "thinking out loud" brainstorming ideas. Constructive criticism and advice is welcome.

I will be brewing 5 to 8 batches a year. I don't drink much so I don't need to brew big volumes. I'll be using 6 gallon fermenters for now, but might increase to 8,9 or 10 gallons later.

5 batches a year x 5 dozen per batch = 25 dozen beer per year. Seems enough. I can always step it up if I need more. I like to experiment and I like variety. I'd rather brew more batches of different beer than bigger batches of the same beer.

I have a busy life. I don't get to brew often. I don't want to waste a bunch of time when I'm brewing. I want a system that allows me to brew 2 batches at once, ie one boiling while the next one is mashing. Thus my system will have 1 mash tun and 2 boil kettles.

I want a high level of automation so that I don't have to babysit it the entire time.

I have ordered 3 of these, one for a mash tun and 2 for boil kettles.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001TAHKBC/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

I chose the 11 gallon size because a) these pots are a nice diameter and have the same diameter (13.5") as the 9 gallon size, only they are taller b) I like pots that are taller than they are round c) 11 gallons gives me lots of head room for 7 gallons of boiling wort d) as a mash tun I have lots of capacity for 6 gallon beers e) I can step up to 8, 9 or possibly 10 gallon batches if/when I increase my fermenter size.

I ordered an on demand hot water heater with a digital control to supply all my mash in and sparging water.
Amazon.com: Eccotemp FVI-12-NG High Capacity Gas Tankless Water Heater: Home Improvement

It appears the stock dial only goes to 140F, though the display goes to at least 170F. I'll replace the dial or do whatever I have to so that it delivers 170F water for sparging.

My sculpture will operate on natural gas. I'm tired of filling and paying for propane. I have a NG outlet on my deck, which will also reach my garage.

I am going to heat the 2 boil kettles and the mash tun directly via 10 inch banjo burners. I want to automate them with a pilot light and gas control valve.

I will use a plate chiller to cool the wort down to fermentation temp.

I will recirculate the mash with a variable speed pump that I already have. I'll probably need a second pump to handle pumping wort through the chiller while a mash is circulating. (2 brews at one time, remember ?)

I want to use clover fittings throughout. What size is the question ? 1", 1.5", 2" ? Advice here, please !

I am a good welder. I have a TIG welder on order. My vessels will use welded fittings.

I will need a temperature probe in each vessel and another in the recirc line of the mash tun.

I will monitor and control the system with a PC and a USB connected controller that I will build. Basically its just going to monitor and log the mash and boil temps and turn the burners on and off. I will control the pumps manually. I will route all the wort manually, ie no solenoid valves.

I haven't designed the brewstand yet, but I know I want it to have a tippy and garbage pail chute for the mash tun. This system (minus the PC) will be stored outside all year round.

I brew in winter. I want to brew my first batch in February. My welder should be here in 2 weeks. I need to get cracking on this thing !

Please critique my ideas.

Thanks !

I was going to name my structure the Fleetus (Fleetius ?) 66 after the Brutus 10 because it will be a fast, nimble brewer of 2 6 gallon brews.

My wife thought I should name it the Achillies 66. I like the name, but Achilles - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

In case it isn't obvious, I won't be using an HLT. I'll be using the on demand hot water heater to perform that function.

It might have some issues with low flow rates. Stay tuned to see how it works.

If it does, I'll use the second boil kettle as the HLT.