Blichmann Fermenator Owners - Are You Happy?

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zymurgy101

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Hi All,

I was hoping to gain some insight from Blichmann Fermenator owners on how well they liked their fermentor. In your opinion what are the pros and cons, would you make the purchase again, do you have the optional tri-clamp version, etc.? Prior to spending that kind of money, I'd like to hear, first hand, how your experience has been.

Thanks,



Jeff
 
Personally I prefer my sanke half barrel fermenter and it was about 1/8th the cost. I have a 14 gallon Fermenator that I upgraded myself with a KF-25 flange 1" dump and series 60 Swagelok ball valves and I almost never use it anymore. It doesn't fit in a fridge and it's hot where I live so there is no way to get good temperature control. The sanke fits in the fridge I use to ferment in so it's a better choice.

Save your money unless you already have a good place to ferment temperature wise.
 
+1 to Sanke

I'm building my 10g AG setup now. (Just ordered the 20g Boilermakers, so I have nothing against Blichmann :) )
I was looking at the 14.5 gallon Ferminator too. I can't do it. After seeing one - It's small!!! - I can't fathom what makes it worth $800+
All weld-less fittings - Even the bottom dump - and plain old stainless steel.

I'll yield to the 60 degree conical yeast harvesting guys, before it starts. But, I got (2) 1/2 barrel Sanke kegs for $30 each. Add this, and you have a 15.5 gallon pressurizable fermenter for $120! They say that harvesting yeast from a sanke with this fitting is a breeze, too. I'll have to wait and see before I pass judgement.

I know there are some pretty neat things you get out of a conical. But for me, after a LOT of research, those things aren't worth the $680+ difference in price.

To answer your real question though (And these are my opinions, and observations because I've never actually used a Ferminator) I was impressed by the quality.
I didn't like the idea of a nut in the bottom of the cone for the weldless dump valve.
I didn't think the legs looked very sturdy (Though I'm sure they are just fine)
The rotating racking arm is sweet
The corny-like hatch in the top would be handy
The price was awful

Good luck!
 
Irrenarzt said:
Personally I prefer my sanke half barrel fermenter and it was about 1/8th the cost. I have a 14 gallon Fermenator that I upgraded myself with a KF-25 flange 1" dump and series 60 Swagelok ball valves and I almost never use it anymore. It doesn't fit in a fridge and it's hot where I live so there is no way to get good temperature control. The sanke fits in the fridge I use to ferment in so it's a better choice.

Save your money unless you already have a good place to ferment temperature wise.
Click to expand...

Hi Irrenarzt,

Isn't the Sanke larger in diameter than the 14g Fermenator? Why doesn't it fit in the fridge?

Space is a large factor for me currently. I ferment in my pantry, which is small and the garage is not an option at this point as I do not have a refrigerator for fermentation. The Fermenator seemed like a nice package of convenience factors rolled into one (small footprint, lightweight, easy to clean, one vessel for a five or ten gallon batch, pressurizable, easily attainable...for a price, plug and play\no hassles, etc). Price is obviously an issue for all of us; that's nine hundred bucks worth of ingredients! I'll have to ponder some more on this. :)
 
SweetSounds said:
+1 to Sanke

I'm building my 10g AG setup now. (Just ordered the 20g Boilermakers, so I have nothing against Blichmann :) )
I was looking at the 14.5 gallon Ferminator too. I can't do it. After seeing one - It's small!!! - I can't fathom what makes it worth $800+
All weld-less fittings - Even the bottom dump - and plain old stainless steel.

I'll yield to the 60 degree conical yeast harvesting guys, before it starts. But, I got (2) 1/2 barrel Sanke kegs for $30 each. Add this, and you have a 15.5 gallon pressurizable fermenter for $120! They say that harvesting yeast from a sanke with this fitting is a breeze, too. I'll have to wait and see before I pass judgement.

I know there are some pretty neat things you get out of a conical. But for me, after a LOT of research, those things aren't worth the $680+ difference in price.

To answer your real question though (And these are my opinions, and observations because I've never actually used a Ferminator) I was impressed by the quality.
I didn't like the idea of a nut in the bottom of the cone for the weldless dump valve.
I didn't think the legs looked very sturdy (Though I'm sure they are just fine)
The rotating racking arm is sweet
The corny-like hatch in the top would be handy
The price was awful

Good luck!
Click to expand...

Thanks for the feedback, SweetSounds. It sounds our take on the Fermentor is about the same. However, the small footprint and ease of use beckons me...if it weren't for that $829 price tag + Blow Off Triclamp. :(
 
zymurgy101 said:
Thanks for the feedback, SweetSounds. It sounds our take on the Fermentor is about the same. However, the small footprint and ease of use beckons me...if it weren't for that $829 price tag + Blow Off Triclamp. :(
Click to expand...

I agree - If I had $1600 to pop on 2 of them, I would in a heartbeat (Actually, I'd probably wait and see what ChiCompany is going to release - It looks like it's going to be a lot nicer than the Blichmann)

I'm still formulating a plan for the blow off on Derrin's fermenter kit. I'm leaning towards some sort of disconnect so I can attach a blow off/airlock/CO2. I just haven't figured it out yet.

A Sanke keg is 16" in diameter, and 23 3/8" tall. the Ferminator is 18 1/2" in diameter, and 31 1/4" tall. So the 14.5 gallon Ferminator is actually 2 1/2" wider, and 8" taller than a Sanke - Food for thought if space is an issue
 
zymurgy101 said:
Hi Irrenarzt,

Isn't the Sanke larger in diameter than the 14g Fermenator? Why doesn't it fit in the fridge?

Space is a large factor for me currently. I ferment in my pantry, which is small and the garage is not an option at this point as I do not have a refrigerator for fermentation. The Fermenator seemed like a nice package of convenience factors rolled into one (small footprint, lightweight, easy to clean, one vessel for a five or ten gallon batch, pressurizable, easily attainable...for a price, plug and play\no hassles, etc). Price is obviously an issue for all of us; that's nine hundred bucks worth of ingredients! I'll have to ponder some more on this. :)
Click to expand...

The sanke is larger diameter but the conical is WAY taller. The legs also make it much more cumbersome to deal with. The conical has a much larger footprint.
 
dstar26t said:
How do you all clean the conical after fermentation?
Click to expand...

Home made CIP with a sump pump and a copper wand. Re-circuialte hot PBW then rinse with water. I will only take my valves off every third or fourth batch
 
I have a 7gal Blichmann conical that I used and liked quite a bit when I did 5 gallon batches. Now I don't really use it at all since I do 10+ gallon batches and ferment in sanke kegs... Being able to dump the trub and some yeast was nice, but I don't miss it really after working with the larger batches in the kegs.
 
RiverCityBrewer, why not sell your 7gal Fermenator and get the 14gal version...or propose a trade? It sounds as if you liked it once upon a time.

I'm really surprised that only Irrenarzt and you replied as owners and it sounds like you appreciated your Femenator the most. I was really hoping to see more owners provide feedback. It makes me wonder how many Fermenators have been sold...there has to be a decent amount of them or they wouldn't continue production.
 
zymurgy101 said:
RiverCityBrewer, why not sell your 7gal Fermenator and get the 14gal version...or propose a trade? It sounds as if you liked it once upon a time.

I'm really surprised that only Irrenarzt and you replied as owners and it sounds like you appreciated your Femenator the most. I was really hoping to see more owners provide feedback. It makes me wonder how many Fermenators have been sold...there has to be a decent amount of them or they wouldn't continue production.
Click to expand...

I have the 14.5g model that I have made some modifications to to suit my brewing style. I love it. I have used a 15g plastic conical and sankey kegs also but I am more comfortable with the the 14.5g conical. I think it is much easier to clean than the other 2. I have a home made cold box so I did not worry much about the size. If I was to do it again I would look closer at the More beer ones also because they changed the way the lid seals. At the time I did not like their sealing method and there was a much longer wait.
 
The conical is super easy to clean but so is a sanke with some caustic soda and hot water so that's not a big issue. The lack of ball valves on a sanke fermenter make it less complex and the fact that it fits in my fridge is clutch. A 14.5 Fermenator won't fit in a fridge unless it's a really big fridge.

There are plusses and minuses for both setups. Go with whatever suits you best.
 
I like my 7 gallon Blingman conical and have been very happy. Is it worth the money probably not but I do like it better than the Chinese version my buddy bought. I wish it had a 1" dump valve but other than that its great.
 
I have the 7g blichmann.
Compared to using a glass carboy, it is great.

Well built, easy to use, easy to clean. Pretty sure it will last
forever. Lots of parts but after a couple of uses I could assemble it
blindfolded. Leaks with the weldless fittings are not an issue.

Did not get the tri-clamps. Found out I don't like messing with
teflon tape. Not difficult, just annoying. If the tri-clamp option
eliminates teflon tape, I wish I had it.

I wish the conical part lifted out of the stand. It would make
it easier to clean. The legs and handles always seem to get in
the way when cleaning. Not a big problem. Just annoying.
 
I have two. I like them a lot but you have to value the bling factor pretty highly to make them worthwhile. They disassemble very easily and are super easy to clean. I take the lid off, reach in with a scrubby sponge and in a few seconds I'm done. The bottom dump is a little narrow when your yeast cake is packed tight but since you can pressurize the tank it is easy to push the yeast out.

The rotating racking arm is very nice but the heavy ball-lock valve rocks freely on the rubber gasket and so it feels loose even though there is a good seal. I wonder whether such a design will prove durable. I've used them for 5 batches so far.
 
Are there any volume indicators on the inside of a Blichmann Ferminator? Has anyone added any if not? It's probably just my lack of experience, but what if you wanted to add enough water to account for superfluous evaporation in the boil? If you didn't know exactly how much wort came over from the kettle into the fermentor, how would you know how much top off water to add?

Thanks!
 
zymurgy101 said:
Are there any volume indicators on the inside of a Blichmann Ferminator? Has anyone added any if not? It's probably just my lack of experience, but what if you wanted to add enough water to account for superfluous evaporation in the boil? If you didn't know exactly how much wort came over from the kettle into the fermentor, how would you know how much top off water to add?

Thanks!
Click to expand...

There are not level marks on or in the conical. I am not sure of any conical other than some of the homemade plastic ones that have level marks. You would have to know the amount coming out of the boil kettle and the desired amount and measure out what is needed and add it back to the conical.
 
Thanks Drez.

For those of you that (admit) have(ing) Ferminators, do you also use the Thermintor wort chiller?

Since Father's Day is fast approaching, I thought I'd ask for the 15gal Ferminator and Therminator...hey, I can ask! :D I'd prefer a gravity fed system the first time to make things a bit more simple. So, from Boilermaker through Therminator into Ferminator in one pass. My well water is no more than 65F degrees (I'll double check this value); ambient temperature will be (assumed) 90F degrees. If this is a bad idea, please sound off. I'd like to wait until the following brew day to introduce recirulation and a pump if that is viable.

Assuming the aforementioned gravity fed system, do you have any additional insight or suggestions? I'd prefer to have any of the "need to have" or "niceties" already installed to make brew day easier (SS quick connects, silicone tubing, etc). Like you, I'd prefer not to purchase things twice!

Thanks,



Jeff
 
Therminator rules but is sensitive to hop trub. So if you have a scheme to keep hop material out, it kicks so much a$$ that it's not even funny. I typically get a boil down to 65 F in about 6 minutes with a recirculating ice bath on the cold side. Takes a fair amount of ice but Sams Club sells 20 pound bags for 2 bucks.
 
Irrenarzt said:
Therminator rules but is sensitive to hop trub. So if you have a scheme to keep hop material out, it kicks so much a$$ that it's not even funny. I typically get a boil down to 65 F in about 6 minutes with a recirculating ice bath on the cold side. Takes a fair amount of ice but Sams Club sells 20 pound bags for 2 bucks.
Click to expand...

Wow..six minutes...in AZ...very nice! I'd settle for a fraction of that performance.

I asked a question which is off topic from the original subject...but at least I derailed my own thread. lol

I have a 15g Boilermaker w\HopBlocker and am doing 10g batches using pellet hops. My last batch was a Ruination clone...so there are a bit of hops in the boil. As of yet, I have not gotten decent results with the HopBlocker; I'm sure that user error has MUCH to do with the result. During my last trip to Lowes, I picked up all the items for Sparky's Hop Spider. Will the Hop Spider be efficient enough in lieu of my limited results with the HopBlocker?
 
Personally I think the hopblocker is a dud and the whirlpool is a huge limitation for many people's setups (i.e. HERMS, IC's, etc). We tried a batch with one a few weeks ago with 8 ounces of pellet hop material side by side with my hopsack setup using a split batch of wort so identic-ale style and my hopsack worked flawlessly and the batch was finished and pitched well before the hopblocker one was AND the hopblocker batch came out with hints of diacetyl and we had problems with it clogging up the ball valve upon transfer to the carboy but we eventually got it all in. We also measured the IBU's using UV-Vis and the hopsack method had identical utilization (the hopsack measured 90 IBU, the hopblocker 91 so that's in the noise IMO).

So the people who claimed the hopsacks reduce utilization, you are flat out wrong (at least in this experiment). I can see reduced hop utilization in HUGE loads with an undersized sack but with 8 ounces and an appropriately sized hopsack, it's not an issue.

I would go with the hop spider and see how it works. Hopblocker is a compromise and I'm not impressed (And I own a scheissload of Blichmann).
 
Adding to the above (sorry to resurrect, I'm researching conicals and was reading this with interest), I'm using a plate chiller (not the Blingmann, one of the $72 chillers from Keg Cowboy) with a hop spider as well - haven't had an issue yet, and it's shown zero signs of clogging. However I'm pretty quick/dilligent to backflush with hose water immediately after use, and recirculate hot PBW through it when I'm cleaning the keggles.

It's actually that chiller that's making me seriously look at conicals, tho. Since the cold break happens in the fermenter, the volume of trub and crap in my better bottles is twice that of my batches chilled with the oul' immersion. So being able to dump trub after 48 hours without issue is pretty attractive. I do have a sanke along with one of Derrin's fermenter kits, but have yet to use it - I'm terrified of not being able to clean and sanitize thoroughly when I just have a 2" hole to work with. (Yep, I've read the thread, I know just a hot PBW soak, rinse, and starsan seem to work for everyone, but how can you be sure you get all the crusted gunk out of there after a batch has fermented out?!)
 
ubermick said:
but how can you be sure you get all the crusted gunk out of there after a batch has fermented out?!)
Click to expand...

Look! :D

Seriously - I can see the inside wall to about 2 inches below the top, just with a flashlight and looking through the hole.

That, a carboy brush, and a quick boil of a couple gallons of water to steam sanitize it have worked great for me.
 
I dunno, sweet - my paranoia for that is huge! Given that I've got the stuff downstairs, I think a project this week might be to cut a hole in the top, and add a corny lid for additional access. I'd certainly feel better about it then.
 
ubermick said:
I dunno, sweet - my paranoia for that is huge! Given that I've got the stuff downstairs, I think a project this week might be to cut a hole in the top, and add a corny lid for additional access. I'd certainly feel better about it then.
Click to expand...

That was my plan, but all my sankes have impressions around the flange that make that impossible. My only choice would be to flip the keg and cut the lid into the smooth bottom, and plug the tap hole with a 2" tri-clover cap, or valve.
 
Ha, if you're that worried buy an inspection camera! You could examine your pump and miscellaneous random orifices too boot! :D

image_1844.jpg


Seriously, if cleaning a sanke keg was a real problem you would have seen threads about it by now...Conspicuously, the only threads are from folks with cleaning "concerns", not actual problems. :)
 
lamarguy said:
Seriously, if cleaning a sanke keg was a real problem you would have seen threads about it by now...Conspicuously, the only threads are from folks with cleaning "concerns", not actual problems. :)
Click to expand...
Brother, my concerns go far beyond my nervousness about keeping a sanke clean! (Get a beer in my wife, and she'll tell you all about 'em!)

I actually just went downstairs and used a combination of an angle grinder and Dremel to cut a hole in the top of the sanke to accept a corny lid. All I gotta do now is smooth it out (Dremel's recharging!) and hope it seals. If not... anyone wanna buy a keg to use as a keggle? :D
 
ubermick said:
I do have a sanke along with one of Derrin's fermenter kits, but have yet to use it - I'm terrified of not being able to clean and sanitize thoroughly when I just have a 2" hole to work with.

I actually just went downstairs and used a combination of an angle grinder and Dremel to cut a hole in the top of the sanke to accept a corny lid.
Click to expand...

Sanke fermentors around the world just cried out in unison. :(
 
Mwahahaha.

Sorry, I appear to be hijacking every conical-related thread in an attempt to figure out what one to pull the trigger on, given budgetary constraints.

Since the Blichmann is weldless, I assume that the ports (dump and siphon) are the same size on both the "standard" and "sanitary" models, and that the difference is the weldless kits they ship with? I've emailled AHS, Williams, Northern Brewer, and Brewmasters Warehouse (as well as Blichmann directly) and gotten no response on this.
 
ubermick said:
Since the Blichmann is weldless, I assume that the ports (dump and siphon) are the same size on both the "standard" and "sanitary" models, and that the difference is the weldless kits they ship with?

I've emailled AHS, Williams, Northern Brewer, and Brewmasters Warehouse (as well as Blichmann directly) and gotten no response on this.
Click to expand...

I do believe the ports are the same size; however, you cannot upgrade a 'standard' to a tri-clamp version.

Just order your MoreBeer conical now and be done with it! ;) The larger dump valve is a good thing and it's a butterfly valve to boot. You may not always get an immediate reply, but there is always someone to answer your call at MoreBeer.

One more thing...if it is your first time ordering with MoreBeer, you will get 10% off your order (sign up on their website first and you'll get a code).
 
Dude! I *want* the Morebeer conical, don't get me wrong. But $899 plus tax for California residents brings it to just shy of $1,000 - which is basically the cost of TWO near identical fermenters from Stout! (Alas, I've ordered PLENTY of stuff from those guys, so no 10% discount for me, unless I have my in-laws buy it or something)

FWIW, I got an email from John Blichmann regarding the "standard" and "sanitary" versions:

The fittings are NOT intrechangeable.* THe TC models use larger holes.* While the TC models are a joy to use and look cool as hell, they really don't do anything more than the NPT models.* If you dump regularly you don't have to worry about compacted yeast plugging the bottom dump (it is more a function of yeast compaction than dia of the dump valve).* So frequent dumping keeps that at bay.* ANd a bit of pressure will get it moving even if it does.
Click to expand...

My new nefarious scheme is to just get the standard Blichmann, and in a few months pull the weldless dump valve off, and have a 1.5" tri elbow sanitary welded in it's place.
 
Ah..."plus tax"...'nuff said. Prior to finding out about the 10% discount, they did tell me they would match the price of a Blichmann ($829, I believe). That still doesn't compare to the $599 price of a standard 14 gallon Blichmann...with no tax. Looking forward to feedback on the new toy!
 
Or the $499 (plus shipping) on a Stout Tank short model, with thermowell and customized lid with 4" and 1.5" tri clamp ports for the blowoff and access port! (Which... I wouldn't get for six months)
 
ubermick... you are killing me. :) Seriously, every thread... Just order something already. You know what you want and we are not going to change your mind.
 
That's the problem! I don't!! And it's driving me absolutely friggin mental!!!!!!! I want the Stout Tank, but I sure as hell don't wanna wait until the middle of Summer to get it. I want the Morebeer, but can't afford it! I'd get the Brewhemoth, but it won't @## fit!!
 
Blichmann...ready...go! Sounds like a no brainer to me and I would have already pulled the trigger provided the info you have.
 

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