Facelift for my control panel

SSBrew - 728
Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum

Help Support Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
PapaFoxtrot said:
Augie,

A couple questions about your pumps. I'm looking at the 24v model and curious how you clean them? Not looking to start a flame war - just curious what method you use. Also, I believe the inlet and outlet are 1/2" BSP threads? If so, would this fitting work(a bit pricey, but curious if it's an option)? Last, do you get enough flow from the 24v models to get a decent whirlpool?

I like that these are small and inexpensive. I plan to try to keep my system modular and these are cheap enough to keep a couple spares rigged with fittings. If I have trouble with one, just close the valve and swap it out.

Thanks! Great looking system you have there.
Click to expand...
I edited my earlier comment now that I had more time after work to check out the link you linked...
 
JUST_BREW_IT said:
Do you have a parts list for your original control panel?
Click to expand...

not really I will come up with one and post it here though... my original and current control panel are the same I just gave it a facelift, rearranged and added a couple things..
most of the stuff came from ebay or amazon... anything in particular your wondering about?
 
here are some pics of my new $20 flow meter in action...I'm really happy with it so far . Used it for two brews. its cool to be able to see the color and huge clarity change during the recirculation of the mash... what starts out very cloudy is almost crystal clear by the end of the 60 minute mash.... as you can see in the pics of mondays blond ale brewing session and the cloudy irish red pic.

IMG_20150119_121616_140.jpg


IMG_20150114_181153_733.jpg


IMG_20150114_181135_186.jpg
 
Where did you get the rotameters? I designed those into my rig but nixxed due to cost. I'd love love love to add them in.
 
PapaFoxtrot said:
Well, since I was nursing a serious case of "want", I ordered one. Cart a bit in front of the horse, as I hope to place my order for kettles this week. I'm working on a nice pile of parts...
Click to expand...

Lol I know this all too well... If only they sold an inexpensive version of this with a sensor that could be tied to a relay controlling a rims heating element to cut the heat if the flow ever stopped or fell below a certian level... Im sure it could be done though... Maybe an optical sensor?
 
augiedoggy said:
Lol I know this all too well... If only they sold an inexpensive version of this with a sensor that could be tied to a relay controlling a rims heating element to cut the heat if the flow ever stopped or fell below a certian level... Im sure it could be done though... Maybe an optical sensor?
Click to expand...

So you just sparked an idea... you could use the float in the rotameter to trigger a proximity switch. There are a few details you'd have to work out in regards to mounting and interlocking, but this might be a good basis! I'm going to put some more thought into this idea myself because it makes me nervous as hell walking away from a potential RIMs grenade.
 
schematix said:
So you just sparked an idea... you could use the float in the rotameter to trigger a proximity switch. There are a few details you'd have to work out in regards to mounting and interlocking, but this might be a good basis! I'm going to put some more thought into this idea myself because it makes me nervous as hell walking away from a potential RIMs grenade.
Click to expand...

I did see a pic of something like this in the automated forum but I dont remember which thread it was in.
 
I put a few more minutes of thought into this and came up with a flow sensing idea that is simple and cheap. The materials required would be 2 inductive proxes, 1 normally open and 1 normally closed, and a relay. These are wired into a classic start/stop latch circuit.

The minimum flow switch is normally closed so that if its not connected or faulty the circuit will never turn latch on. The desired flow switch is normally open so that it latches the circuit when the flow is within its range. However, once it has been seen, the circuit stays latched until the minimum switch is triggered again (opens the circuit).

Another normally open contact off of CR1 would then be used as an interlock to either the SSR coil, or the PID controller, or whatever other system you have.

Looks like I found an excuse to drop another hundred bucks.

Rotameter Min Flow Switch.png
 
schematix said:
I put a few more minutes of thought into this and came up with a flow sensing idea that is simple and cheap. The materials required would be 2 inductive proxes, 1 normally open and 1 normally closed, and a relay. These are wired into a classic start/stop latch circuit.

The minimum flow switch is normally closed so that if its not connected or faulty the circuit will never turn latch on. The desired flow switch is normally open so that it latches the circuit when the flow is within its range. However, once it has been seen, the circuit stays latched until the minimum switch is triggered again (opens the circuit).

Another normally open contact off of CR1 would then be used as an interlock to either the SSR coil, or the PID controller, or whatever other system you have.

Looks like I found an excuse to drop another hundred bucks.
Click to expand...

I'm interested to see how this works out...I have a lot of various sensors from the plotters and printers and such I service and have scrapped over the years and may try to fab something up myself if I can find an optical sensor that sensitive enough to work through the glass and at that range..
I have also found cheap flow sensors but none for the volume and also foodsafe.

Edit maybe I'm not looking hard enough...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Magnetic-St...561?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item27e2ceb2d9

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Magnetic-St...035?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item233b067be3
 
Best I can tell these are piston style switches, which are grain catchers, and thus a no-go.
 
I'm going to try to refine my rotameter prox switch + relay idea tonight and see if I can spec cost effective components. I really want the rotameter for recirc, sparge and lauter control anyways. If i can add a flow sensing mechanism to that i'd be happy.

This is a turbine style flow switch. Min 1L/min (which is very close to sparge rate). I'd think this would be better than a piston style but i can't tell from the picture how large the spacing between the blades is: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Transparent...542?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item418d69b5e6
 
I don't get grain in my lines I have a triple filtering false bottom because my little 3gpm pumps would jam with grain...
They say they are reed switch activated but I do believe there is a cone type piston? That the fluid applies pressure to so it opens.
I saw the one you linked but those appear to monitor and control flow and I'm looking for a on off flow switch to allow current and cut current to my SSR powering my rims element
 
Yah the cone is attached to a piston and there is a magnet on the piston. When the piston moves, the magnet moves closer to the reed switch and closes it. Pretty simple but not without some draw backs.

I don't think that turbine unit has any control ability. You supply it a voltage to power the hall effect sensor, and it sends back a voltage proportional to the speed. You then take that signal into your controller and use it to create a control signal to control a pump speed, etc.
 
schematix said:
Yah the cone is attached to a piston and there is a magnet on the piston. When the piston moves, the magnet moves closer to the reed switch and closes it. Pretty simple but not without some draw backs.

I don't think that turbine unit has any control ability. You supply it a voltage to power the hall effect sensor, and it sends back a voltage proportional to the speed. You then take that signal into your controller and use it to create a control signal to control a pump speed, etc.
Click to expand...
I figured the magnet was attached to the cone which looks to be spring loaded with a slightspring... hopefully this wont cut my flow down much as its only about 1.5 gallons per minute now with the restrictictions from the false bottom and lines.

As for the one you linked, Its possible. Your explanation makes more sense.. I read from one of the sellers that it controls flow as well as senses it but they didnt say how...
 
all of my 24 and 12 volt DC pumps use the bSP version threads and those thread fine to my npt threaded cam locks with Teflon tape... I'm hoping I'll get lucky with this setup as well.
 
BigFloppy said:
What did you do with the PID's you took out of the original box? Thinking of selling them on?
Click to expand...

There is oly two and one is being used in another build I'm making... I havent decided on what I'm going to do with the rex 100 yet... They are only like $14 shipped on ebay.
 
Next week I will be spending a lot of time stuck in a hotel room just outside of Toronto... I'll have plenty of time to put a list of materials and links together.
 
I'm going to post the supply links as I have time to dig them up since some of my ebay and amazon links are no longer valid from my original purchases being stretched back over a year ago...

First the enclosure I used which it avaliable at lowes or home depot. ($34)

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Carlon-1...-Box-E989R-UPC/100404149?N=5yc1vZbohnZ1z116nv

the pids I used which I got for $20 a piece shipped seemed to have gone up in price but heres two recent links one for $26 each and one for $31 including an ssr relay, I used these relays with no issues for almost a year (3 or them) but replaced two with a dual relay to save space recently.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Universal-D...621?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item20d8476745

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Dual-PID-Te...387?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item19d0ff9dbb

Here is a link to the teledyne dual ssr I now use along with a fotek knockoff model.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/321595660389?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

Here are the heatsinks I used (tons of these on ebay and amazon) some come with screw if you dont want to make a trip to the store or seach through your screws...
http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Aluminu...830?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3f43af691e
I use a 12v 80mm pc fan mounted into the side of my enclosure for cooling but you could use a 24v fan or even mount the external heat sink on the top if you want to make it easier...


here are some links for switches and indicators I used. (I found I have the best luck by searching "22mm panel indicator " and sorting by price keep in mind they are cheaper in groups of 3 or 5)

http://www.ebay.com/itm/360982219478?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

http://www.ebay.com/itm/121285591080?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

http://www.ebay.com/itm/3-Position-...850?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item56511eddf2

http://www.ebay.com/itm/5-Yellos-22...ignal-Light-/140922243645?hash=item20cf9eca3d

http://www.ebay.com/itm/4PCs-12V-22...225?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item27e71bad19

here are some xlr connectors I used for my PT100 rtd probes.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281126349197?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

I used these 3 pin ones for my temp probes

http://www.ebay.com/itm/5-set-3-Pin...891?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2585bd902b

these are the heating element connectors to the panel I wish I used..they are rated for 25a . I bought them for a recent build and they are pretty nice...(The ones I used from mouser are ok but not as nice as they come unplugged easily.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/321514587280?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

Well I'm off to dinner will edit and add more info tonight.
 
here are more switches from different sellers than I used since my ebay links are too old,
unlike the three position (on,off,on) switch I linked above these are just on and off but maintained so they do not spring back to off when you let go of the switch like a momentary switch..

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1PC-22mm-Se...825?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2a37035d61

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1PC-22mm-Se...880?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item27f880bc20

This one is momentary and I used this style it for my timer reset switch.


These are the relays I used because I already had them but the switching coil is 24v dc.... I used a $3 12v to 24v boost board to power them at first until I replaced all my 12v pumps with 24v versions , now I power them off the 24v powersupply I use for my pumps.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/LOT-7-OMRON...715?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item43d36cb93b.

I would recommend just purchasing a couple contractors if you dont plan on having a dc powersupply for dc pumps in your panel. like these which I purchased for another build. (choose the 220v/240v coil version for simplicity)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/111399224493?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1PC-22mm-Se...846?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item27f880bbfe

If you do plan on having dc pumps and pwm controllers the Omron ones I linked above can also be found with 12v switching coils and will save space in the smaller enclosure.


Here is the volt/ amp meter I used ..very simple to wire up and works well ($9)

http://www.ebay.com/itm/AC100-300V-...647?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1c444479f7

here is the timer I used... its a two stage timer, ther make a 4 stage (quad) timer as well if you like to make beers with many hop additions it may be a better idea... heres the daul stage model below.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/100-240V-AC...971?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3cc5dbd7eb

Here is the 4 stage timer (I'm tempted to upgrade to this myself)

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B008KVV546/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20
 
Last edited by a moderator:
As far as powering and controlling the speed of the DC pumps I used....

I recomment going with the 24v versions of these pumps instead of 12v. The 24v are more powerful. these pumps are food grade and rated for boiling temps. there are many sellers selling these. I have bought 5 from 5 different sellers and they are all identical with the same pps coated magnets .
http://www.ebay.com/itm/36116338235...49&var=630516827839&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

I have used two different types of speed controllers for the pump motors (These are not needed but they are a safer and easier way to control pump speed and prevent stuck sparges in my opinion) they are very easy to wire up...power in and power out to pump.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/12V-24V-36V...764?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item418d82efcc

These are slightly better in my opinion. You can find these much cheaper than this if you search.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B009HKFAIQ/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

These are a pretty nice alternative I just discovered and havent tried yet.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/261678264066?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

for the main pump power switches I used these led illuminated switches. Just make sure to order the correct 12 or 24v switches or the light wont work. they are also available in many colors. (you need to solder or use small narrow spade connectors to install.)

http://www.ebay.com/itm/5PCS-16MM-R...703?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item27dbb79387

And finally power supplies....
if you are going with 12v all you need is a 2-3amp supply to run a couple pumps at once like this.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/12V-3A-DC-P...113?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3378c8b349

I prefer this type, although I found a better 3 amp version for $8 shipped with some searching... keep in mind more amps wont hurt anything but each pump needs about 1 amp to run correctly.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/161285389741?_trksid=p2060778.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

http://www.ebay.com/itm/S-25-12-Sup...849?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item339dbb1201


I upgraded to 24v dc so I went with a 6 or 7 amp supply but this 5 amp would be more than enought to run all the pumps and relays and still power a dc fan to cool the ssr heatsinks...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1x-24V-5A-1...884?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_2&hash=item2a32fe86cc
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Almost forgot the RTD pt100 temp probes...

I used these cheaper ones without the detachable connector at the probe end and while they worked fine I ruined one but catching the cable on a doorknob when moving the kettle to clean it so I recommend the ones in the last link below... they are easier to mount with the 1/2" base and quick disconnect. they are the same type of sensor that auger sells for about $40 only they are $20 direct.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/RTD-Pt100-T...238?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item58bc5a2c4e

http://www.ebay.com/itm/RTD-Pt100-o...116?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item259775d24c


Better ones

http://www.ebay.com/itm/RTD-PT100-T...963?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_2&hash=item3a9ebb24db

I also recommend installing fuses for your pid/timer circuit which can all be powered off of a single 1/2amp fuse...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Fuse-Holder...087?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1e88052f77

and here is something to protect the element power circuit. (I have yet to add this to mine)
you have many inexpensive options here like these. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Siemens-3NW...824?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4ad71a3100

http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-PACK-8-GA...011?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4171d0caa3

or something like this.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Marathon-40...781?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4d227dfc85
breakers can also be found for around $10 for this purpose...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271533564977?_trksid=p2060778.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
 
Great compilation of links and "how-to". There a number of items that I wish I would have looked for cheaper now that I've gone through your links... Oh well, live and learn. Thanks for the time and input!!
 
Pictures of the flow output from my 24V dc pumps.... the orange locline pic is after traveling through the rims and flow meter and flow is just shy of 2 gallons per minute. the float switch is for fly sparging... keeps the level automatically...
Incase I hadn't mentioned it
The box at the base of my HLT is for a pwm speed controller for my stirring rod motor and also houses the wiring for a float switch which kills the element power if the water level drops to the level of the element.

IMG_20150126_192831_769.jpg


IMG_20150126_193104_431.jpg
 

Similar threads

B
eBIAB PID Controller Wiring Diagram - Feedback Requested
Replies
14
Views
1K
beerisambrosia
B
Sean_SA
Connecting a single phase control panel to a 3 phase power supply
Replies
2
Views
679
bruce_the_loon
bruce_the_loon
L
Building a potentiometer controller
Replies
25
Views
1K
doug293cz
doug293cz
Wogman75
Electric Brew Panel Troubleshooting
Replies
29
Views
2K
Geezer-Glide
G
J
Control Panel with On/Off/Auto Switches
Replies
7
Views
1K
Scout
Scout
SSBrew 300

Latest posts

Back
Top