Batch Sparge Question

I'm in the process of getting everything set up for my first AG batch in the next week or two. I plan on making the "Your WIT-ness" Belgian wit beer. I've been reading up on the process of mashing but want to ask a few questions to make sure I have the process down before I get started.

For the initial mash I should use 1.5 qt of water per lb of grain? What temp am I supposed to mash this at for 1 hour? Also should I worry about doing a mash out before I get the first running off my grains? Or should I just run it off and continue with my sparge? What temp should the sparge water be for batch sparging? I know I need to keep the flow slow enough to not cause the grain bed to collapse but is there a good rule as to how fast I should drain?

My next question is a beersmith question. I am currently using the 21 day free trial to see if I like the program. I have my recipe set up in the program but cannot find where in the program to calculate my batch sparge water. Can someone help me out with this?

-1.5 qt/lb is fine
-about 153 would be a good goal
-you don't have to do a mash out with batch-sparging, I often do anyway, but its not as critical since you won't be sparging for an additional 45 minutes or so as you do with fly-sparging
-Temperature of the sparge water will depend on the final temp of your grains after the first runnings and the mass of those grains. Your goal for the final temperature after your water addition should be about 168.
-You don't really need to slow down the flow for a batch sparge. I never have, and I've never had problems because of it. Again, slow flow is for fly-sparging.
-You didn't mention a vorlauf. Make sure you drain a little bit of the wort until it runs clear and free of grain husks and what not and then add the cloudy runnings gently back into the top. Do this before each running.

-I use this as my sparge calculator

I use BobbyM's N.M.O.D.B.S. method, it has never failed me.

Easy and simple. Search this forum or go here:All Grain (bottom of the page).

Water to grain ratio depends on your braid/falsebottom and crush. I never use more than 1.25qt/lbs. Also the first couple of times you will need to adjust with extra hot/cold water until you get dialed in. You get better efficiency by mashing thick and using more spargewater.

Mash needs to be 150-155. This again depends on your setup (how much heat loss you have over 1 hour), and you will get it dialed in. I would aim for 155F the first couple of times.

I use No Mashout and 180-185 as per Bobby's instructions. Warmer for large grain bills.

If you stir really good after each water addition, you can wait 5 mins for the grainbed to settle and drain at full speed. Remember to recirculate a couple of qt's.

My advice for success: Spent a little extra effort stirring
Good luck!

Hommel Homebrew

Thanks for the replies. Yes I planned on doing a vorlauf, I just forgot to mention it. Always nice to be reminded though.

For a wit, I'd go for a lower temp and longer time to ensure fermentability. I'd shoot for 148-150 for 90 min. For another take on batch sparging, see dennybrew .

Hey Denny, it was nice to finally shake your hand at NHC. Dennybrew was the reason I took on AG in the first place.

In case anyone is wondering what the difference between Denny's method and what I use is the number of discrete runnings. He does a mashout and single sparge where both runnings are equal volume. That's as ideal as it gets for two runnings.

I skip the mashout and double sparge for three discrete runnings. It's some extra work for about 3-5% efficiency increase and it's probably not worth the trouble. I wrote a lot about it when I was trying to maximize efficiency as a learning exercise. I still do it but I certainly won't say 4% efficiency is anything to lose sleep over.

Great to meet you, too, Bobby. Wish we would have had more time to chat and drink!

FWIW, I seldom do a mashout any more. I try to use enough mash water to get 1/2 my boil volume from the mash without it. I'm mashing at 1.5-1.75 qt./lb. now and that usually eliminates the need for a pre mash runoff addition. When I did that addition, it was more to equalize runoffs than to actually do a mashout.