3/16" tailpiece on 1/4" bore shank

I'm ordering some Perlick 525 and 575 faucets for a recent keezer build and ideally I would like to get stainless steel shanks and tailpieces. I'm using some very rigid 3/16"ID Bev-Seal Ultra line, so I want to stick with 3/16" tailpieces so I don't have to perform open heart surgery on the line trying to get it over 1/4" barbs.

After a little research it seems there are no 3/16" bore stainless steel shanks out there (if I'm incorrect, please reply with a link), only chrome plated brass in that size. What I'm thinking of doing is ordering 1/4" bore stainless steel shanks and putting on 3/16" barbed tailpieces. Are there any potential problem with that?

Any other tips? I noticed some guys have put flare adapters instead of tailpieces so they can easily swap out lines, and I would be interested in hearing any experience you have had with that as well.

Hot water is your friend. I use 3/16" ID beer line (very thick-walled stuff) and with near-boiling water I can slip the line on the barbs, .25", without the use of tools.
I'm currently switching everything over to MFL fittings. I went with barbed connections initially and have to recommend the flares now. It's so much easier to unhook a line if you decide to change something.

Also, I don't use hose clamps on my liquid lines but do on my gas. Why not on the liquid? Because when I put the lines on I didn't have any clamps handy, and that line is on there now. I would, however, use clamps in the future. Kyle

STAINLESS SHANK NIPPLE 3/16" @ Williams Brewing
I replaced my 1/4" with these. Trust me the smaller size is worth it with that bev line. I have no issues.

Conan said:

I'm currently switching everything over to MFL fittings. I went with barbed connections initially and have to recommend the flares now. It's so much easier to unhook a line if you decide to change something.

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What MFL fittings are you using?

beerman0001 said:

STAINLESS SHANK NIPPLE 3/16" @ Williams Brewing
I replaced my 1/4" with these. Trust me the smaller size is worth it with that bev line. I have no issues.

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Yeah, it wasn't so much a matter of if Bev-seal line would fit over 1/4" barbs with enough elbow grease, but more a matter of why fight it if I don't have to. Especially considering that the inside is glass-lined. I didn't want to be too aggressive with the glass barrier. Heat guns, screw drivers and excessive stretching could potentially compromise the lining.

Thanks for sharing your experience and which nipples you used. Do you have 1/4" bore shanks? Any turbulence or pressure issues with 3/16" nipples on 1/4" shanks? I wouldn't imagine so, but thought I would check.

FYI- the inside is not actually glass like a window or a drinking cup. its a type of plastic; only specified as a "polymer" in their datasheet. its probably a type of PET plastic.

there is no danger of cracking it like with actual glass. "glas-flex" is just a brand name/term they use for it.

ocluke said:

Yeah, it wasn't so much a matter of if Bev-seal line would fit over 1/4" barbs with enough elbow grease, but more a matter of why fight it if I don't have to. Especially considering that the inside is glass-lined. I didn't want to be too aggressive with the glass barrier. Heat guns, screw drivers and excessive stretching could potentially compromise the lining.

Thanks for sharing your experience and which nipples you used. Do you have 1/4" bore shanks? Any turbulence or pressure issues with 3/16" nipples on 1/4" shanks? I wouldn't imagine so, but thought I would check.

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No issues at all. As I see it the bev line is 3/16" so it stays that way till it goes in to the 1/4 " shank.