That looks fantastic. Can you ask your wife to rub some of her saintliness off on my wife please?
Does a move up to a 50gal system indicate an intention to go Nano?
Does a move up to a 50gal system indicate an intention to go Nano?
Jukas said:That looks fantastic. Can you ask your wife to rub some of her saintliness off on my wife please?
Does a move up to a 50gal system indicate an intention to go Nano?
Sure can! Hope it works! Did you ever get your conical? We finally got the machined blocks back for the tri clamp conicals and should have them together in the next couple of weeks. I'm thinking about using mine as a yeast brink as I'll need 3 gallon starters with the new tanks.....
Jukas said:I ended up order a brewhemoth with all the bells and whistles. Just waiting on a few more parts to come in and I'll be ready for it's virgin batch.
Ironically I think I'm only a few bucks short into this product of what you offered me your 14gal B3 for
marcb said:How crazy is crazy?
MaxOut said:Looks like your a Moorbeer preferred customer for sure!!
I found this propane powered tankless hot water for $200 and ordered it. It's normally $280 so I couldn't resist.
http://www.buy.com/pr/product.aspx?sku=219061279
Here is the manufacturer's website.
http://www.eccotemp.com/eccotemp-l10-tankless-water-heater/
It looks like you need this extra part to get over 140, but it was only $10
http://www.eccotemp.com/l10-overtemp-sensor/
Hopefully it will come before the weekend and I can do some testing and report back. I don't expect to be able to sparge directly from it, but it should at least be able to give my HLT a big head start.
Sorry for the delay in updating you guys, but I had some difficulties getting this thing working and I don't brew too much in the winter since I brew in a detached garage with no heat.
I did a double brew day yesterday and this hot water worked incredibly well! I was able get water from 50 degrees to up 180 degrees! I could probably sparge directly from this hot water heater, but without it being digital controlled I don't trust it maintaining a steady temperature.
Still, it saves a ton of time because I can fill my HLT with water at nearly sparge temp. Having a sink with hot water for cleaning throughout brew was also a huge upgrade.
Now that I can get water at basically sparge temp right away, I'm going to setup my HLT to be electric. I figure a small 110V heat stick will be enough to increase it 10-15 degrees in a reasonable amount of time and maintain that temp as needed.
Here are a few pics from my brewday yesterday:
Filling up my Hot Liquor Tank from my propane powered on demand hot water heater. It can get water up to close to 180 degrees!
The brewhouse. Boil Kettle on left. Mash Tun in the middle. Hot Liquor tank on the right. Sink and Hot water heater to the right of that and glass carboys getting cleaned in front of the sink.
Filling up a carboy with White IPA. *(We covered the carboy with a towel right after this pic to protect from UV.
Close up of the wort chiller and inline oxygen injection system.
Recirculating the mash while heating up sparge water.
Pumping wort into the boil kettle while sparging into the Mash Tun.
barryfine said:Thanks Marc! That means a lot coming from you. I'm following your other thread pretty closely because I'm looking to go bigger as well.
How do you plan to use the tankless hot water heater to heat up your mash? Once I switch my HLT to digital electric control, I'm just going to add a herms coils. My issue with HERMS before was that it would take so long for my HLT to get up to temp after striking that it would be pointless. Since I can get it to the correct temp out of the tap it solves that problem for me.
I still don't want to do away with my HLT, but if I bought a nicer tankless with digital controls I think I'd be confortable with that.
So in my current process I have a HLT that has an automated burner and a herms coil. To overcome the issue with temp recovery I fill the HLT with my tankless to 160 and usually have the burner control set at 170. I then proceed to fill the mash tun from the tankless and depending on the temp of the grain and what I'm brewing start the mash and set everything up for auto herms via pump control and recirc of the mash.
Where I'm headed (now at least) is a larger commercial tankless with a recirc loop. On that loop will be two CFC stainless heat exchangers and a pump. When the valve is open to the heat exchangers I will basically have the same benefit as my herms coil today in my HLT but driven directly through my tankless with zero waste water. This should work well for step mashes and there is no risk of scorching the wort in a rims tube. I should also be able to hit mash out temps. When the mash is complete I will have a temp monitor and bypass valve as well as a flow meter for calculating sparge flow/volume (I also plan on leveraging this for strike water as well)
barryfine said:That's a pretty cool idea! Before I realized I could get to basically strike temp on my first shot, I had thought about recirculating my hot liquor through the tankless to get it up to temp. I guess I could still do that, but since I'm sticking with a HLT I figured that doing an electric PID HLT would be easier.
Meeting with a plumber to discuss, for me with two parallel 1.5bbl batches going at the same time I'm struggling to find room in the garage for everything. Eliminating a 100+ gallon HLT saves me a ton of room and money. I'll let you know how this shapes up as I'll be sketching out the design.
barryfine said:Going parallel is a pretty interesting idea. I'm planning a 1.5bbl system as well, but for now I'm just planning a normal 3 vessel system and will just brew back to back for a 3bbl brew. I'm sure yours would be a much shorter brew day though. I definitely look forward to seeing your system come together. I'm sure I'll find some ideas to borrow along the way.
Reviving this older thread because I just picked up a Noritz NR50-OD-LP and is similar to marcb's tankless.
marcb, I'm having trouble getting mine to light and was wondering what type of regulator you used? I hope I can get more details about your setup and process so I can get mine going.
Thanks.
Can I put the tankless in a series and have more the first one move it from 50 to 100 and the second tank take that 100 and move it to 150 and the third tank from 150 to 185?I sell tankless water heaters for a living and rep for a large tankless company. There are a few factors to consider... #1 where in the country are you ? you need to consider what is called a delta T which simply means if you have 50 degree ground water and want to heat to 160 degrees you have a 110 degree delta T. This effects how much continous capacity the water heater will produce. A very general rule of thumb is that in the north east you will get somewhere between 4-5 gallons a minute in the south these things rock and can produce upwards of 9 gallons of water as their delta T is so low and they may have a 70 degree ground water temp. Also by federal safety laws to go over 135 degrees you need to get a master controller additionally that will allow you to go hotter. This is to prevent scalding. Lastly whichevef brand you choose do not believe the advertised continous production label do the delta T and look at the curve charts they provide on the website you may need more than one tankless. Some good brands to look at are Rannai #1 ... #2 noritz... #3.... for economy bosch or takagi though you get what you pay for in this category. best of luck pm me if you have any questions.
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