Pros/Cons of BrewEasy Versus BIAB?

Hi Team,

Interested in you all's thoughts on the Pros/Cons of the BrewEasy compared to BIAB.

I am struggling to see what the advantage is.....I am sure I am missing something...

Thanks

I just typed breweasy into google... looks like there is about 2000 cons on the breweasy side...

Probably depends on what BIAB. Are you talking truly just a pot and a bag, or are you going to get a pump? What size batches do you want to do? How much money do you have? What are you really trying to accomplish? (repeatability / time savings / etc) Are you going electric or gas? Do you have the ability to lift a bag of wet hot grains out of the pot before boil? Do you have room to stack two large kettles in your brew area?

Don't have one however, pro would be constant mash temperature since it's RIMS. Cons - cost, complexity.

You can have RIMS with BIAB... so that's kinda not a comparator.

-BD

I guess another way to ask the question is BIAB versus K-RIMS...as BrewEasy is a widely available K -RIMS system, I thought it would be useful as a comparison.....so folks could google it and see one.....

I guess I should have asked this in the BIAB forum....Moderator, feel free to move...

brew-in said:

I guess another way to ask the question is BIAB versus K-RIMS...as BrewEasy is a widely available K -RIMS system, I thought it would be useful as a comparison.....so folks could google it and see one.....

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yeah... Dont know if this is some kind of joke but you definitely dont want to google "k-rims" for images....

augiedoggy said:

yeah... Dont know if this is some kind of joke but you definitely dont want to google "k-rims" for images....

Click to expand...

??? did a normal (not image) google search of the phrase "K-Rims versus BIAB" and got accurate results....guess I won't try k-rims by itself....

How do you compare a commercially-produced, high-quality brewing system with an excellent brand name in the (home)brewing industry carrying a warranty (BrewEasy) versus a style of lautering (BIAB)?

Here's my comparison:
-For a bunch of money you get a lot of metal and electrical gadgets in a turnkey system with support and a warranty.
-For a couple bucks you get a bag.

stpug said:

How do you compare a commercially-produced, high-quality brewing system with an excellent brand name in the (home)brewing industry carrying a warranty (BrewEasy) versus a style of lautering (BIAB)?

Here's my comparison:
-For a bunch of money you get a lot of metal and electrical gadgets in a turnkey system with support and a warranty.
-For a couple bucks you get a bag.

Click to expand...

I think is can be fairly easy... They both are systems to make beer right?
You can compare the price, vs functionality and pros and cons of each homebrewing system with BIAB one would have to pick a specific setup (colorado, brewboss, DIY / rims or no rims)

The support and warranty could be had on either depending on what turnkey system you go with and thats also reflected in the price so it may not necessarily be a plus for a handy person...

augiedoggy said:

I think is can be fairly easy... They both are systems to make beer right?
You can compare the price, vs functionality and pros and cons of each homebrewing system with BIAB one would have to pick a specific setup (colorado, brewboss, DIY / rims or no rims)

The support and warranty could be had on either depending on what turnkey system you go with and thats also reflected in the price so it may not necessarily be a plus for a handy person...

Click to expand...

I get your point, but BrewEasy is a product (an entire system) whereas BIAB is form of lautering (a single component in a system). The OP didn't ask to compare a ColoradoBrewing or BrewBoss BIAB system with the BrewEasy.

BrewEasy:


BIAB:

stpug said:

BrewEasy:

BIAB:

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the brewesay is just a fancy looking version of a rims system with a mashtun and dual duty boil kettle/hlt from wahat I can see...

Your automatically comparing an extremely basic homemade biab setup to this commercial setup to make your point... point made... Now I think we both are smart enough to figure out the OP was more of less comparing the two processes looking for the advantages of each.. it would be fair to compare how a traditional BIAB setup works vs this breweasy and start from there and then compare the options on the BIAB systems...


cost would be one advantage the BIAB has. I cringe to think of how many commercially sold BIAB systems you can buy for the cost of that one breweasy setup... They could plate the whole thing in gold and still make a decent profit with what they charge..great looking setup but not practical from an economical standpoint... if moneys not a concern its a great option.

BIAB would be smaller and have easier cleanup. if your brewing 10 gallon batches you may need a hoist depending on your age/ physical condition. A rims would be benefical too if not already added to the BIAB.

augiedoggy said:

the brewesay is just a fancy looking version of a rims system with a mashtun and dual duty boil kettle/hlt from wahat I can see...

Your automatically comparing an extremely basic homemade biab setup to this commercial setup to make your point... point made... Now I think we both are smart enough to figure out the OP was more of less comparing the two processes looking for the advantages of each.. it would be fair to compare how a traditional BIAB setup works vs this breweasy and start from there and then compare the options on the BIAB systems...


cost would be one advantage the BIAB has. I cringe to think of how many commercially sold BIAB systems you can buy for the cost of that one breweasy setup... They could plate the whole thing in gold and still make a decent profit with what they charge..great looking setup but not practical from an economical standpoint... if moneys not a concern its a great option.

BIAB would be smaller and have easier cleanup. if your brewing 10 gallon batches you may need a hoist depending on your age/ physical condition. A rims would be benefical too if not already added to the BIAB.

Click to expand...

Thanks....I was a little scared to venture back into the thread and was jut hoping it would peeter out .....

I was hoping to hear folks input on the differences and pros/cons of BIAB versus a K-RIMS system like the BrewEasy employs. My bad for wording the OP poorly.

From my perspective, there is kinda three steps. A basic BIAB, A BIAB system with recirc, and the next step is moving to an entirely second kettle for the mash such as BrewEasy has done. I was just pointing out the BrewEasy to illustrate the concept. I poorly worded the original post and folks got stuck on that particular implementation of K-RIMS.

From my perspective the main cons I see to a K-RIMS setup (as illustrated by the breweasy) is more equipment to store and cost. Don't see the increase in cleaning or brew time. I suspect cleaning up the second kettle would be about the same as cleaning a bag.

As far as cost, while the Brew Easy implementation is expensive, it is the high end example of a K-RIMS system. For a normal BIAB system (one that already has recirc), the only cost to go to a K-RIMS system would be the addition of an autosparge, some fittings, tubing, and a Mashtun (cooler, ss pot, etc.)...so to the home builder, maybe $300 more than the Basic BIAB system. Certainly not small change but doable for some....

Do folks see any brewing advantages to the K-RIMS type system (as illustrated by the BrewEasy)? Efficiency maybe? Clearer wort? etc?

I built a nice stainless breweasy type, tried it and went right back to my recirculating Biab.

The BE system did nothing more than the Biab but was harder or rather slower to clean, took up more space and was generally less convenient.

If clear wort is for some reason important to you, remembering that clarity doesn't effect the final beer, than the BE is the way to go also possibly more pride of ownership the BE is very shiny!

Somebody mentioned a warranty, my Biab is so simple none is needed, a solar pump, a cheap pid and a SSR and I mustn't forget a heating element.


Atb. Aamcle

aamcle said:

I built a nice stainless breweasy type, tried it and went right back to my recirculating Biab.

The BE system did nothing more than the Biab but was harder or rather slower to clean, took up more space and was generally less convenient.

If clear wort is for some reason important to you, remembering that clarity doesn't effect the final beer, than the BE is the way to go also possibly more pride of ownership the BE is very shiny!

Somebody mentioned a warranty, my Biab is so simple none is needed, a solar pump, a cheap pid and a SSR and I mustn't forget a heating element.


Atb. Aamcle

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Great input...someone who tried both types and preferred the recirc BIAB over K-RIMS...

I have a 3 kettle single tier system with a rims... since mine is setup permenently It works for me... I do have a biab bag I bought and all the left over hardware from my build to make a biab recirc system with rims (or even a 3 vessel setup it I want but heres the thing... I use a 16 gallon stainless bayou classic kettle as a mash tun... I have a false bottom with a bazooka tube under it and braided screen inside that. This has been completely foolproof as far as stuck sparges in about 55 brews now.. I find the kettle easier to just carry out to my compose bin and dump there. I can either rinse it outside with a hose or in the sink. I think its actually easier to clean than a large bag would be since the grain would be a pain to get out of the bag. I also like the hlt for easier and quicker water on demand at correct mash and sparge temps. Plus It allows me to have extra water to clean most of my system in place with water and pbw if needed...

As far as I know,you still have extra buckets or kettle to clean with BIAB since you need to set your dripping bag of grain in something when you remove it..

I can totally see BIAB being a better fit for some. I do believe when it comes to bags vs stainless baskets which sit in the kettle, that a real bag is better because fills the kettle and forces recirculating liquid through it is better than those stainless baskets that advertise recirculation which mainly just recirculates around the basket of grain and not through it. (most of the wort will take the easy free path of least resistance around.)

augiedoggy,

I am with on the thought that cleaning the mashtun vice a bag would be easier....also good point with BIAB on needing to clean a bucket or whatever you put the wet mashbag in....

Honestly I spend more time cleaning my stainless hop sider basket than anything else after brewing...
I read over and over of all the high efficiencies people are getting with BIAB and I am curious on how this is happening with no sparging myself? Is there some other method or sparging some people use like sprinking water over the hangign bag of grain? That would seem a bit messy to me?

augiedoggy said:

I use a 16 gallon stainless bayou classic kettle as a mash tun... I have a false bottom with a bazooka tube under it and braided screen inside that. This has been completely foolproof as far as stuck sparges in about 55 brews now.. I find the kettle easier to just carry out to my compose bin and dump there.

Click to expand...

I have yet to brew with a false bottom in my MT but I've used a bazooka and braided screen before. Is it common for a false bottom to let a ton of grain get by? I can't see why you need a triple layer to prevent a stuck sparge. Plus, doesn't it all come down to the first layer (the false bottom) getting stuck? If everything compacts on the false bottom it doesn't matter how many layers are under it.

I only had one stuck sparge with the bazooka tube and that was my fault for not getting rice hulls on a recipe that needed it. I've always thought the upgrade to a false bottom would be fantastic so I'm shocked to hear you need an extra layer or two of protection with a false bottom.

brew-in said:

augiedoggy,

I am with on the thought that cleaning the mashtun vice a bag would be easier....also good point with BIAB on needing to clean a bucket or whatever you put the wet mashbag in....

Click to expand...

Others have mentioned the chore of needing an extra bucket but I just don't see how that is an issue. I normally have a bucket for things that drip like my mash paddle so it isn't really an "extra" item for my procedure. More importantly, I'm shocked to hear that people consider cleaning a "drip" bucket a chore. For me it's just a rinse and a quick wipe.

On the other hand, I also hear people say cleaning their kettles is an easy "rinse and quick wipe" and I can't imagine that for anything but my HLT (and then maybe just a quick wipe with a towel). I can definitely recall the amount of time it takes me to clean my MT or BK because it's never quick. But I can't recall spending any time on a drip bucket (or HLT) because it's usually over before I have time to think about it. I cringe to think how gross my MT or BK would be with just a quick rinse and wipe.

I assume this is usually said by people who have pumps. Even then I assume some scrubbing would be needed. After my next system upgrade I'll know for sure.

pretzelb said:

I've always thought the upgrade to a false bottom would be fantastic so I'm shocked to hear you need an extra layer or two of protection with a false bottom.

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I suspect the extra layer(s) are to simply keep any grain particles out of the BK. The largest holes would be in the false bottom, next finest in a bazooka, and finest in hose braid. Placed in that order you really minimize any grain particles that make it into the BK.

My FB let's through some small amount of grain particles but those are caught on the BK side since I drain through a strainer bag. Even if they made it to the BK they're contribution is nill; I just prefer to not have them in my yeast cake

pretzelb said:

Others have mentioned the chore of needing an extra bucket but I just don't see how that is an issue. I normally have a bucket for things that drip like my mash paddle so it isn't really an "extra" item for my procedure. More importantly, I'm shocked to hear that people consider cleaning a "drip" bucket a chore. For me it's just a rinse and a quick wipe.

I don't have a drip bucket so it WOULD be an extra item to clean. I also wouldn't consider it a chore (quick rinse and wipe should be sufficient), but when folks make an attempt at persuasion then every-little-thing becomes such a big deal

On the other hand, I also hear people say cleaning their kettles is an easy "rinse and quick wipe" and I can't imagine that for anything but my HLT (and then maybe just a quick wipe with a towel). I can definitely recall the amount of time it takes me to clean my MT or BK because it's never quick. But I can't recall spending any time on a drip bucket (or HLT) because it's usually over before I have time to think about it. I cringe to think how gross my MT or BK would be with just a quick rinse and wipe.

I agree, without a little elbow grease that hotbreak ring and break buildup on the bottom is not coming off. Much more effort in my BK than MLT/HLT combined (or drip bucket if I used one).

I assume this is usually said by people who have pumps. Even then I assume some scrubbing would be needed. After my next system upgrade I'll know for sure.

I have a chugger for over almost 2 years now - still haven't used it (or needed it); maybe one day. I just loath the idea of another piece of equipment to pull out, clean, and put away. I'm more of a minimalist with most things - just haven't setup a BIAB test system yet. The idea appeals to me, it's the logistics of how I would want to do it (and where) hold me back.

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At least that's my take on it.

augiedoggy said:

Honestly I spend more time cleaning my stainless hop sider basket than anything else after brewing...
I read over and over of all the high efficiencies people are getting with BIAB and I am curious on how this is happening with no sparging myself? Is there some other method or sparging some people use like sprinking water over the hangign bag of grain? That would seem a bit messy to me?

Click to expand...

Mashing full volume and then holding back a gallon or two for a psuedo-sparge is a great method. If you have a pulley system then just have the bag dangling over the pot and use a pitcher to pour water through it. If you dont, can dunk it in a separate bucket, or maybe you have a kitchen collander than fits on your BK or bucket etc.

BIAB definitely gets messy if you don't have a good system in place to handle it. Back on my original BIAB setup I had a bucket and collander and would just pull it out of the kettle and set it on that. Worked, but I still made a bit of a mess. This time I'm going with a pulley setup.

I use a pulley, lift the bag let it drain, give it a squeeze, slip the bucket under it and move both off to one side.

A bit of warm water for a sparge and over 80% every time .

Shake the bag into the recycling bin, rinse it, hang it, let it dry and shake the bits out.

Aamcle

pretzelb said:

I have yet to brew with a false bottom in my MT but I've used a bazooka and braided screen before. Is it common for a false bottom to let a ton of grain get by? I can't see why you need a triple layer to prevent a stuck sparge. Plus, doesn't it all come down to the first layer (the false bottom) getting stuck? If everything compacts on the false bottom it doesn't matter how many layers are under it.

I only had one stuck sparge with the bazooka tube and that was my fault for not getting rice hulls on a recipe that needed it. I've always thought the upgrade to a false bottom would be fantastic so I'm shocked to hear you need an extra layer or two of protection with a false bottom.

Click to expand...

well its like this... the bazooka tube does in fact get some grain stuck in it and the braided screen also gets some buildup so yeah... it normally gets by but a larger pump just sends it on its way... not as easily done with the smaller pumps... better to keep it out in the first place so...

BTW this allows me to NEVER use rice hulls and NEVER worry about a stuck sparge... small price to pay in my eyes since I already had the stuff laying around from earlier versins of my setup.. including the beer I made today I have about 56 brews on this setup now.

I have never had to clean out a biab screen bag before but it just looks like it would be more of a pain in the ASS than dumping and rinsing my stainless mash tun directly after brewing...I still have to rinse the filtration system off but that is pretty easy... I guess there are tradeoffs to each setup.

My Jaybird false bottom did pretty well. I'd get some small grain particles through, sure, but nothing ever clogged my small DC pumps. No big pieces could get through.

iijakii said:

My Jaybird false bottom did pretty well. I'd get some small grain particles through, sure, but nothing ever clogged my small DC pumps. No big pieces could get through.

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thats good news but if I had a nickel for all the times someone complained about these pumps seizing up I would be rich... They got quite a bad rap for it. I just took precautions to prevent the opportunity for that to happen.
I use a bayou classic kettle and the design with the indexed lip inside kinda limits my false bottom choices... the fines stuff the partially plugs the filters below just make the filtration finer and wort cleaner with no particles to possibly make it to my plate chiller.