skeeordye11
Well-Known Member
How much corn sugar should I add to each bottle if I am going to prime them individually? Thanks!
Individual bottle priming
- Thread starter skeeordye11
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individually? Why? do the math. 3/4cup corn sugar divided by apx. 50 bottles. Or if you do it by weight then you will have to weigh your corn sugar first then divide it by 50. Dextrose is very absorbant of humidity and the weight on 3/4cups of it will be different for everyone.
blacklab
Well-Known Member
buy some carb tabs if you want to go that route. they work great.
I threw this excel calculator together to calculate per bottle carbing.... No thinking involved...just enter carbing sugar in weight for a full batch then bottle size and everything is laid out for you... The sheet is protected, so changes are not made, but there is no password so feel free to improve on it, or if you find errors let me know, I'll change them. Hope it helps.
http://www.mediafire.com/?j5ytojhhj1l
http://www.mediafire.com/?j5ytojhhj1l
+1 on carb tabs.
My LHBS sells Muntons carb tabs I recently carbed a APA with them where I gegged the bulk of it and bottle primed a 12pack, 16oz flip tops. Worked great.
My LHBS sells Muntons carb tabs I recently carbed a APA with them where I gegged the bulk of it and bottle primed a 12pack, 16oz flip tops. Worked great.
I've got a bunch of small bags of corn sugar from when I did extract (they came in the kits for free), but I didn't use them because I was kegging. Occasionally I'll have too much beer that won't fit in the keg, so I bottle a handful of beers.
I use 3/4 tsp for 12oz bottles and 1.5tsp for 22oz bottles. Make sure you put the sugar in the bottom of the bottle before you fill with beer, otherwise you'll have a foaming mess.
I use 3/4 tsp for 12oz bottles and 1.5tsp for 22oz bottles. Make sure you put the sugar in the bottom of the bottle before you fill with beer, otherwise you'll have a foaming mess.
Terry08
Well-Known Member
Over 20 years I have litterally bottled 1,000's of bottles from stout to lager.
The trick I find is that fermentation(Primary) has stopped then with a measure I pour ordinary sugar into the bottle fill with flat beer and store in a shed for 3 weeks minimum. The amount of head does depend on the beer type. But if the head collapses after pouring then it could be what you wash the glass with. I always use the 720ml long necks
I have had two bottles explode in my shed luckily I was not there when that happened.
I find bottling is a no brainer. My aim is to reduce sediment although I do decant before pouring a glass. I taste the beer at these times
1. 3 days after pitching
2. 1 week after pitching Normally bottle at this point
3. Now I have it in a Secondary so I will taste it say 3 times and check cabonation level and clarity. over a 2 week period.
4. I shall then bottle
I have found that over the years you can tell by taste at what stage the beer has reached also if it is going off.
I have never lost a brew but once I detected an off taste so I boiled it added more yeast and a bit of sugar and after a renewed fermentation period I bottled it. Came out fine. more like a commercial brew.
I do not use a sealed fermentor as I have a lead going to a fish heater through the top. I rely on the Co2 protecting the beer.
I have never worried how hot it gets all I make sure that in the first 3 days the temperature does not fall below 25deg c after that its every yeast cell for itself.
I am intrieged by the trouble some go to in creating their amber liquid.
My 2 week fast beer made in our summer. Ferment 30-40 deg c for 1 week bottle for one week same temperature. fridge for one day. bit young to my taste but fine by others.
I am trying a secondary vessel for the first time and taking a bit off after 2 weeks shows me it will be clear. The taste is already great and I cannot wait for the matured result
This one is a lager I will be making a good old Aussie Draught next followed with a Dark Ale
The trick I find is that fermentation(Primary) has stopped then with a measure I pour ordinary sugar into the bottle fill with flat beer and store in a shed for 3 weeks minimum. The amount of head does depend on the beer type. But if the head collapses after pouring then it could be what you wash the glass with. I always use the 720ml long necks
I have had two bottles explode in my shed luckily I was not there when that happened.
I find bottling is a no brainer. My aim is to reduce sediment although I do decant before pouring a glass. I taste the beer at these times
1. 3 days after pitching
2. 1 week after pitching Normally bottle at this point
3. Now I have it in a Secondary so I will taste it say 3 times and check cabonation level and clarity. over a 2 week period.
4. I shall then bottle
I have found that over the years you can tell by taste at what stage the beer has reached also if it is going off.
I have never lost a brew but once I detected an off taste so I boiled it added more yeast and a bit of sugar and after a renewed fermentation period I bottled it. Came out fine. more like a commercial brew.
I do not use a sealed fermentor as I have a lead going to a fish heater through the top. I rely on the Co2 protecting the beer.
I have never worried how hot it gets all I make sure that in the first 3 days the temperature does not fall below 25deg c after that its every yeast cell for itself.
I am intrieged by the trouble some go to in creating their amber liquid.
My 2 week fast beer made in our summer. Ferment 30-40 deg c for 1 week bottle for one week same temperature. fridge for one day. bit young to my taste but fine by others.
I am trying a secondary vessel for the first time and taking a bit off after 2 weeks shows me it will be clear. The taste is already great and I cannot wait for the matured result
This one is a lager I will be making a good old Aussie Draught next followed with a Dark Ale
