paledragon
Well-Known Member
Finally wrapped up new controllers after ordering the parts 6 months ago. Built my original control panel 5+ years ago, and decided it was time to upgrade. I'm a fan of home audio equipment, so I went with the "monoblock amp" look.
I incorporated a couple types of liquid level switches: float switch for the boil kettle, and an optoelectronic switch from the RIMS/mash tun. When the switches are "on", an LED on the front of the control boxes lights up.
Boil Kettle
8x8x12 box from automation direct, painted via the "Kal" method, with cabinet handles from Home Depot. Auber PID and timer. Switches (left to right) are main power, pump, heating element contractor, and level switch. The level switch controls a DC SSR, which has the PID output as the load. Control of the DC SSR is done through the 24VDC power supply and the float switch. Front LED lights up when the liquid level is high enough. Wiring is either 10 AWG or 18 AWG machine tool wiring (MTW).
Receptacles (left to right) are pump, heating element, and power in. 24VDC exhaust fan, XLR RTD connection, and the Auber level switch on top.
DIN rail has the contactor, heating element SSR, 24 VDC supply, and DC SSR.
Other side of the box...breakers, contactors, power distribution.
Mash Control
Essentially a replica of the boil kettle controller, minus the timer. Float level switch was replaced by an optoelectronic level switch from Dwyer. I thought about a flow switch to help control the RIMS tube, but given the number of grain particles I see flowing through my system on startup (I've got a bottom drain mash tun), I worry about clogging one up. Plan is to put the liquid level sensor on the RIMS tube outlet. LED on the right lights up when liquid is detected.
I hope everyone has a happy turkey day!
p.d.
I incorporated a couple types of liquid level switches: float switch for the boil kettle, and an optoelectronic switch from the RIMS/mash tun. When the switches are "on", an LED on the front of the control boxes lights up.
Boil Kettle
8x8x12 box from automation direct, painted via the "Kal" method, with cabinet handles from Home Depot. Auber PID and timer. Switches (left to right) are main power, pump, heating element contractor, and level switch. The level switch controls a DC SSR, which has the PID output as the load. Control of the DC SSR is done through the 24VDC power supply and the float switch. Front LED lights up when the liquid level is high enough. Wiring is either 10 AWG or 18 AWG machine tool wiring (MTW).
Receptacles (left to right) are pump, heating element, and power in. 24VDC exhaust fan, XLR RTD connection, and the Auber level switch on top.
DIN rail has the contactor, heating element SSR, 24 VDC supply, and DC SSR.
Other side of the box...breakers, contactors, power distribution.
Mash Control
Essentially a replica of the boil kettle controller, minus the timer. Float level switch was replaced by an optoelectronic level switch from Dwyer. I thought about a flow switch to help control the RIMS tube, but given the number of grain particles I see flowing through my system on startup (I've got a bottom drain mash tun), I worry about clogging one up. Plan is to put the liquid level sensor on the RIMS tube outlet. LED on the right lights up when liquid is detected.
I hope everyone has a happy turkey day!
p.d.
