Please review/critique my panel wiring

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canyonbrewer

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calling all DIY-ers!

I am a complete wiring newbie...and I am trying to plan the wiring for my build. I am hoping some of you experienced folk are bored tonite, drinking a homebrew, and looking for a diagram to review.

What you see here is the 1st draft my puny brain has come up with...without testing anything.

One particular area where I am confused is the valve override switch and light. Basically, I have a 3 way switch (on/off/on) that I would like to configure as PidControlled/OFF/ManualOn. It is basically 2 switches in 1 (4 contacts). My goal is to be able to override the PID and open the ASCO valve manually. I would also like the yellow light to come on whenever the asco vavle is open, regardless of manual or automatic mode.

Also, I plan on using GFI, but it isn't pictured.

Thanks for all of your help...all feedback is welcomed.

5493371038_e1623ffa4e_o.jpg
 
You would have gotten more attention in the "Electric Brewing" forum rather than the "DIY" forum, but your wiring looks fine here.

The selector switch probably only has three connections on it. One input from the PID, one input from directly from the Hot line, and then the common pin which goes out to the valve.

Your light will come on when the valve is opened, regardless of which source (PID or Manual) caused the valve to open.

What is the purpose of this thing? And why is the timer in there?
 
Looks good,

Your three position switch should do as you want if it has three or four terminals (as mentioned before) one for ground, two terminals for two different paths to ground, and it might have a third path to ground position which you could leave open or ground.

Two pumps and a valve. seems like an odd thing to PID based on temperature for a set time. i am curious as to what process you want to PID?
 
Thanks for the feedback all -

To answer some of the questions:

This is my Brutus clone control panel. There are actually 2 PIDS and 2 ASCOs that will control the HLT burner and the MT burner. I just put one in the diagram to simplify(plus I ran out of space)...and they will both be wired identically anyways.

The timer is only controlling the buzzer, and providing me a digital countdown of the time remaining. Not controlling any part of the brew process. Just providing convenience for me.

The pumps will be manually controlled.

My on off on switch has 4 poles. I assumed that 2 were for "on #1" and 2 were for "on #2". There are no connections for ground.
 
well... i can't say I am 100% confident in my understanding of the text for that thing, but it sounds like it does implement two totally separate switch paths. 1 in + 1 out for two different paths, so... yeah... 4 pins, two of which, for your application, can be tied together since you are using it as a selector for the same device.

side comment: Is that picture squashed a little in the vertical direction. It sure looks like the thing is oval shaped instead of round, which would make cutting holes in a panel for it kind of weird.

oval_switch.jpg
 
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