Preparing to keg for first time...

I got my co2 tank hooked up and gave my corny a test run. I've heard the lids can be "fussy" but that doesn't really do it justice. PITA is more like it. After 15 minutes and removing and flipping the O ring I finally got it to stop hissing.

When I open the regulator I get a hollow hissing sound which I guess is normal? Didn't see any more bubbles anywhere once the lid was sealed.

mine hisses while the keg is pressurizing (that hollow sound), but that stops once the pressure in the keg equilizes to the regulator pressure.

Did you use keglube on the lid oring? That seems to help ALOT with getting it to seal. I usually see a few bubbles coming up from the lidoring until the pressure inside hits about 20psi, then i can back it off to serving pressure.

You can also disconnect your gas in for about an hour, to verify it holds pressure over a period of time. a quick pull of the relief valve will show you that there is still pressure in the keg, or you can get a fancy gas QD that has a pressure guage on it.

Arkador said:

Did you use keglube on the lid oring? That seems to help ALOT with getting it to seal. I usually see a few bubbles coming up from the lidoring until the pressure inside hits about 20psi, then i can back it off to serving pressure.

Click to expand...

Didn't know about keglube, will definitely pick some up. I was only pressurizing to 5psi, I didnt want to crank it up too much with a leak and have it waste gas but I will turn it up higher next time, thanks for the info!

You definitely need high PSI to seat the seal. I haven't used keg lube but always crack it at 30 PSI to seat; purge the head space and keep the PSI high to force carb. I'm still chasing a few small leaks on my setup, but since I just turn off the tank between sessions it's hard to get serious about finding small leaks.

As per the previous poster, hit it with 30PSI and forget the keg lube. It needs that initial 'hit' to seal it and assuming the keg is near full of beer you'll use hardly any CO2.

Parva said:

As per the previous poster, hit it with 30PSI and forget the keg lube. It needs that initial 'hit' to seal it and assuming the keg is near full of beer you'll use hardly any CO2.

Click to expand...

Keglube is cheap, and will extend the life of your orings. A little bit goes a long way. It also makes sealing that lid easier. I wouldn't skimp on the Keglube.

I'll probably throw some lube in with my next order if it will keep me from having to replace the O-rings for a while. I had another question: If I force carbonate will the beer still condition in the keg? I've read you should chill the keg to 40F to force carbonate. Does the cold temp effect conditioning?

tidehouse said:

I'll probably throw some lube in with my next order if it will keep me from having to replace the O-rings for a while. I had another question: If I force carbonate will the beer still condition in the keg? I've read you should chill the keg to 40F to force carbonate. Does the cold temp effect conditioning?

Click to expand...

Beer will condition in the keg, but cold temperatures definitely slow the conditioning. It'll take longer to condition at lower temperatures. I like to keep the beer in the fermenter longer than I used to, and then keg it and keep it at room temperature a couple of weeks. Then, I put it in the kegerator and put it on the gas to carbonate.

I have had it on the gas at room temperature, too, so that it conditions while it carbs up. I have two tanks, so it makes it easy. I put it on about 30 psi for two weeks at room temperature, and then purge it and put it in the kegerator at serving pressure (12 psi). I've also primed the kegs at times, and left them at room temperature for a couple of weeks.

Either way works just fine. Keep in mind that even if beer is carbonated, it doesn't mean it's not "green". Force carbing allows you to carb the beer quickly, but it doesn't necessarilly mean that the beer is ready to drink.