Hey guys, so im in the process of building my first all grain system. I'm planning on using a 22qt pressure cooker to generate steam to heat my mash water, do temp programmed mashing as well as assist in heating my kettle. For the kettle i was thinking that my pressure cooker wouldnt provide enough consistent steam for a proper vigorous 60 min boil, so i am thinking of adding a 1500W element to it as well. Thoughts???
Kettle.....steam + electricity
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Sawdustguy
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GreenMonti and Kladue are the experts but I doubt it.
ok so the updated plan is this; the steam addition is on hold for now, i put a 2000W element in the kettle and a 1440W in the hot water tank. I want to get this system operational so i can start playing around, i can always add steam later in the form of steam mashing.
Bjornbrewer
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If you're new to all grain, maybe you should get the process down first before you start making a complex system. Do a couple of test runs with simple gear and then step it up. If not, all you're doing is adding a learning curve of a complex system on top of a learning curve of all grain brewing.
keep it simple stupid!
keep it simple stupid!
If you're new to all grain, maybe you should get the process down first before you start making a complex system. Do a couple of test runs with simple gear and then step it up. If not, all you're doing is adding a learning curve of a complex system on top of a learning curve of all grain brewing.
keep it simple stupid!
+1 to that, you'll make some mistakes, but you'll learn a lot from them. Best part is even though you may mess up while learning, you still end up with beer!
SweetSounds
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+1 for KISS - I'm building my first AG system too - An all electric HERMS. But other than being electric, it's pretty much a basic system - Until I get my process down I don't want to get learning the complexities of my system in the way of learning the complexities of AG brewing
Even if you're only doing 5 gallon boils, I doubt 2k is enough power.
I've read many threads about needing 2 2000w heat sticks to get 5 gallons over the top.
Do you have 220v available? I'd go 5k if you have the amps to spare... Otherwise, you may need 2 2000w elements on separate 20 amp 110v circuits.
i unfortunately dont have 220 available, though i did some test runs with water in my HLT (5gal). The HLT (1440W) got the water up to 165F in just over an hour, and that was starting with cold tap water, so not so bad. I'm sure the 2000W will work for now in the kettle, it shouldnt take nearly as long since the wort will already be around 150F. And then once i figure out how to get some more electricity (i rent) where i brew i will see about adding a second element
If you have an electric clothes dryer you have a 30-40 amp 220V source, the fun part is setting up a method to swap plugs for brewing.
SweetSounds
Well-Known Member
Nope - Just a larger gauge wire - 30' @ 30 amps can be done at 10 gauge...
You can build that cable for less than $50.00
SweetSounds
Well-Known Member
It's worth it - If you have 220 @ 30 amps you can go with a 5500 watt element and not have to worry about power...
It shortens your brew day
ok so the plan is now to run a 4500W 240V element in the kettle, i picked one up at home depot last night, i would assume its low density since its folded back on itself (more surface area = lower density). I also nabbed a new 14-30P dryer prong head from ebay, should be here in a few days. Now the question is, what kind of wire do i need to run? correct me if i'm wrong 10/3 would be sufficient for the amperage, however, 10/3 only has one hot, one neutral (or 2nd hot) and a ground wire. I need 2 hot wires, 1 neutral and a ground, correct? I know i could buy the typical orange 10 gauge 4 wire dryer stuff, but this stuff is very very stiff and hard to roll up for storage. suggestions?
SweetSounds
Well-Known Member
Correct - Sort of
It depends on who you talk to. To some, 10-3 means 3 primary conductors, and a ground - Which is perfect.
To me, 10-3 means 2 primary conductors and a ground - Not what you want.
How much do you need? I have a load of 10-4 SJOOW I'll part with.
Otherwise, Lowes or Home Depot sell it for $2something a foot...
Bjornbrewer
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the standard way of labeling wire is 10/2 means two current carrying conductors (black and white) + ground...three conductors total. 10/3 means three current carrying conductors (black, red, white) + ground...four conductors total.
Sweetsounds, I disagree...you only need 10/2 for a heating element because you don't use the neutral so you would use the black for one leg, the white for the other and of course ground for ground. I know it's not the norm to use the white for a hot leg, but it's not incorrect to do it that way. using 10/3 wire is a waste of money.
Sweetsounds, I disagree...you only need 10/2 for a heating element because you don't use the neutral so you would use the black for one leg, the white for the other and of course ground for ground. I know it's not the norm to use the white for a hot leg, but it's not incorrect to do it that way. using 10/3 wire is a waste of money.
SweetSounds
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You're right - I forgot that OP is powering just an element. I've been following a few control panel builds, and got them crossed
10-2 is sufficient!
but i'll still need a neutral line for my PID's and my pump since they each will only be getting 1 hot wire, so they will need a neutral to close the circuit. So i would still need the 10/3 wire, correct (black, red, white and ground)?
Bjornbrewer
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yes, 10/3 to feed the control panel, 10/2 from the control panel to the heating elements.
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