So the mash ph I am looking for per a specific recipe should be the one taken at the mash temperature or correct to that temperature???
Looks good to me, I always use a couple calculators just to see the difference.... which there always is.Plan on brewing a Golden ale this weekend. How does this water profile look? I’m using RO water. I hope is readable.
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It's what the recipe author intended for you to use. The problem is most recipes don't mention, so you have no way of knowing if they meant for that pH to be at room temp, or at mash temp.So the mash ph I am looking for per a specific recipe should be the one taken at the mash temperature or correct to that temperature???
Nope!@kal, are you the developer of EZ Water?
I'd like to think they sampled mash pH at room temperature in order to extend the life of their pH meter. At least that's what I do. Spending $60 every other year on replacement electrodes is expensive enough as it is when sampling at room temperature.So the mash ph I am looking for per a specific recipe should be the one taken at the mash temperature or correct to that temperature???
High amount of acid can be perceived as astringent. Have you tried without? Have you ever measured with pH meter? (Spreadsheet estimators are just that: Only estimators).I just started looking into water chemistry in order to fight that slight grainy/astrigent flavor I get in my beers... my CaCO3 is 136 and using phosphoric acid 80% in light colored beers to tremendous amounts...
High amount of acid can be perceived as astringent. Have you tried without? Have you ever measured with pH meter? (Spreadsheet estimators are just that: Only estimators).
Kal
I am familiar with BIAB but its not how I brew so take anything i say with a grain of salt. Are you over crushing? How fine is the crush? I've also heard not squeezing the bag is a myth. Does the flavor age out at all?
You stated that you are going to different LHBS so I doubt its their mill gap but it cant hurt to look closely. At my LHBS I always have to check the crush because they don't seem to check. I'd get like 20% efficiency if I didn't
If none of those fit I would look closer at your pH which you are addressing with the EZwater software. Astringent flavors can be attributed to rising pH.
Have you checked the accuracy of your thermometers? Just a thought
It actually mellows out quite nicely, but isn't it odd to have to wait 2 months after carbonation for a 4-5% beer? Thanks for the tips, I'll get back after brewing this beer with the EZ adjustments
I'm actually using a digital thermometer and I always take temps after evenly stirring the grain bed
Asking again: Have you ever measured with an actual pH meter?
You mentioned "digital thermometer". Just because it's digital doesn't mean it's accurate (it's just how the info is displayed). The other poster was wondering if you've actually confirmed the accuracy of your thermometer.
Another thing not mentioned that can cause astringency is boiling bits of grain/husk. Best to get as clear beer as possible into the boil kettle.
Kal
Again, whether a device (any device) shows you numbers (digital) or a dial (analog) has nothing to do with accuracy. There is nothing that makes "digital" more accurate. It's simply how the number is displayed.It's actually the first time I hear that a brand new digital thermometer can be inaccurate.
Thanks for this great spreadsheet! I just started looking into water chemistry in order to fight that slight grainy/astrigent flavor I get in my beers, even though I've used different malts from different LHBSs and after brewing different styles of beers. In dark beers I don't get this flavor so I assume it has to do with my mash ph/oversparging because of biab(?). In any case, my CaCO3 is 136 and using phosphoric acid 80% in light colored beers to tremendous amounts, like a whole tablespoon in a 5 gal batch, and also adding CaCl because my water is low in these minerals I still get that flavor, maybe even accentuated. Since I got my water report, I switched to acid malt so I can calculate it easier with EZ, and recently got my hands on some epsom salts since my water has a serious deficiency. My standard practice is adding all my water beforehand, meaning grain water, sparge, and also compensating with boiloff water and water for trub loss. I always end up with 5 gals of beer when bottling. Could that he the culprit? Should I split my water additions or that's the standard way of biab brewing? I should add that I haven't tried yet adding acid malt and epsom, this week's brew is going to be my first try using EZ at all. Thanks and sorry for the long post
I calibrate my thermometers at 150F using a very accurate ( and precise ) thermometer that I know is correct. 150 degrees is about mid range where most brewing work is performed.I have one digital thermometer that is about 3-4 degrees off (low), and one that is 10 or more degrees off (also low) when measured in boiling water (adjusted to my altitude). Both do just fine with an ice water slurry.
Before I got all the chemicals and a good Ph meter I used a solid charcoal filter, white drinking water hoses, and added 5.2 to the mash and I made great beers. I don't know your water so you may have an issue there. I live in Carrollton Tx which has good brewing water. We now use RO water but I never had astringency in my beers. Are you sure you aren't mashing out at too high a temperature? Happy brewing
Thankfully, in Athens Greece where I live, the water is slightly deficient in minerals, which is good because you can always add what is needed . My profile:
Ca+2 - 46
Mg+2 - 5
SO4-2 - 25
Na+ - 5
Cl- - 7
CaCO3 - 136
With water pH being 7,7 and total alkalinity is estimated to 136 (using Brewer's Friend water chemistry calculator)
Yes, same here. If you don't have multi-point calibration available to make whatever you're using to measure accurate across a range, you're likely going to be limited to being (mostly) accurate around a target temp. For me that most important target temp is mash temp for both my MLT and HLT.I calibrate my thermometers at 150F using a very accurate ( and precise ) thermometer that I know is correct. 150 degrees is about mid range where most brewing work is performed.
ezRecipe Design displays mash pH prediction values of wort sampled at 77F/25C.So the mash ph I am looking for per a specific recipe should be the one taken at the mash temperature or correct to that temperature???
I need help. Something's wrong with formullas in my EZ Water Calculator 3.0.2
At Step 2: , Select Grain Type, is missing drop-down list and now I have only grain numbers
Look at a picture.
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Yup. And if it used to work before but now doesn't, you probably changed something by accident. Just download the same version again.I've noticed that this is a difference between the Excel and the LibreOffice versions. Whichever version you downloaded, try the other version instead and see if that fixes your issue.
It would be interesting to know how the calculators work. Maybe I'll take a look at EZ's calculations since they can be clicked on and seen in Excel. You can put in numbers like 20 gallons of water and a pound of grain. You'd never brew that but just to see how the inputs affect the results. One would think that would basically spit out a pH a hair under the 7.X that you started off with, because there's so little grain involved, relatively speaking. But it ends up with numbers like 20 for the pH instead. Bru'n water does this kind of thing as well. I'd have guessed the 7.X would be a starting point, and adding grain would only lower it from there.
pH meter is on order. I'll end up figuring out what I need to do for my own recipes.
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