Cleaning an immersion chiller

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drycreek

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Hey guys, coming up on my first brew this weekend and I'm slightly concerned about the cleanliness of my wort chiller. I built an immersion chiller out of 3/8" copper tubing and soldered a couple elbow fittings and a support rod onto it, all of which will be submerged in the kettle.

Tonight I did a combination test run and cleaning by boiling 4 gallons of water with a couple cups of vinegar and soaking the chiller. I understand the vinegar boil helps clean it up and prepare it for use. Also, the good news is that the pre-chiller and immersion chiller were able to cool 4 gallons of water from 206F to 80F in about 13 minutes. I think that's a good start.

However, I'm still a little paranoid about the cleanliness of the immersion chiller. The flux and solder is kind of messy, and even though I tried to wipe it clean, it was still a little grimy prior to the vinegar boil. After the vinegar boil it looked much better, very shiny and clean with no noticeable residues. However, just because I can't easily see something doesn't mean it isn't there or that it won't somehow contaminate my beer during the actual boil. Am I being too paranoid, or is this a valid concern?
 
Just toss the chiller into the brew pot for the last 15 or 20 minutes of the boil. That should kill anything that wants to harm your beer, whether or not it is in a nook or a cranny.

Welcome to the Forum!
 
So long as the soldering doesn't touch the wort, drop it in the boil with about 15 minutes left to go. The heat will kill anything you wouldn't want touching the beer while it cools.
 
Silver solder is sometimes labeled "Plumber's Solder" and is generally sold in packs with its own flux. If the solder is below the level of the wort you're going to have to cut it out and re-solder with the proper product. "Plumber's Solder" or Silver Solder does not contain lead, which can harm you; however, because it melts at a higher temperature and for other reasons it is slightly more difficult to work with.
 
I used silver solder and not lead-based solder, so I'm safe there.

Some of the soldering is on parts of the chiller that will be in contact with the wort. I based it off a design that I saw online, so I assumed that wouldn't be an issue. Is that correct?

Also, I'm not really concerned about sanitation here. I know I can drop it in the kettle with about 15 minutes to go in the boil and everything will be fine with regards to sanitation. I'm just more concerned about some type of residue contributing a foul taste to the beer.
 
Oh and thanks for the responses so far, that was faster than I expected.
 
Since you've already boiled the chiller you shouldn't get any residue that will effect your beer, at least nothing perceptible or harmful.
 
1. Throw chiller into wort 15 min. from end of boil.

2. When done chilling, rinse off with hose.

3. Repeat next time.
 
Good to know. I'm debating on whether or not to take advantage of a sale at my LHBS...

Though STORING the thing might be an issue. I have too much stuff around the house as is.
 
The only thing I'd be concerned with are the forming oils that are used to extrude the copper into tubing form. I'd use a good wash with TSP first followed by a good rinse. Vinegar is fine for a final cleaning. Then, as mentioned above, the boiling wort will kill any evil predators.
 
I use vinegar to clean mine with. I doesn't look as pretty as it did when it was brand new, but it doesn't look horrible either.

When I made mine I used 'just for copper' rather than run the risk of issues with solder. Plus, I've never actually soldered anything before, so that would have been messy/ugly. The only issue I've had so far is one of my elbows is loose, but it isn't leaking. I probably should get off my rear and fix it though.
 
A question that I've had for a while is how do you sanitize the chiller by throwing it in the boil with fifteen minutes left if your hop schedule calls for a 5 minute or 2 minute addition? I always have to stir like crazy after a hop addition to keep it from boiling over, and that's pretty difficult to do with a big hunk of copper in the kettle.
 
A question that I've had for a while is how do you sanitize the chiller by throwing it in the boil with fifteen minutes left if your hop schedule calls for a 5 minute or 2 minute addition? I always have to stir like crazy after a hop addition to keep it from boiling over, and that's pretty difficult to do with a big hunk of copper in the kettle.

Fermcap works wonders for preventing boil overs.
 
Kungpaodog said:
I hope you used silver solder and not lead based solder?

Does lead solder still exist? I would think anything sold for plumbing use would be lead free by now. Unless you're talking about electrical solder.
 
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