Looking For Tips And Suggestions On Filtering Beer

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wobdee

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So I've been looking into filtering my lagers from my 3 gal Speidel fermenter to my 2.5 gal kegs. I'm thinking of going the whole house canister route rather than the plate type filter and also thinking gravity verses pushing Co2 between two kegs.

My lagers are already pretty dang clear since I wait 6 weeks to tap but I've been diagnosed with some mild gout and want to try and eliminate the yeast to see if it helps my symptoms.

I'm thinking of trying a 5 micron filter first but am a little worried if its too fine for gravity to pull it down into the fermenter? I've read that finer filters can strip flavors and or head retention? If I go 10-20 micron I'm not sure it would trap enough yeast? Any tips or suggestions?
 
I know for sure that eliminating the alcohol is known to help mitigate gout symptoms.
 
If you stick with 2 micron, I have some unused filters I will sell you for real cheap. Got everything for filtering and decided against it. Plan on using the housing as a Randell. Filters are still in the packaging.
 
I've also been battling a gout flare up and have been considering filtering my beers. It seems like a huge pia, and it's probably the alcohol, not the yeast that is the main culprit, imo. I'd be interested to hear if it helps you, though. Keep us posted!
 
Natdavis777 said:
If you stick with 2 micron, I have some unused filters I will sell you for real cheap. Got everything for filtering and decided against it. Plan on using the housing as a Randell. Filters are still in the packaging.
Click to expand...

Cool, thanks, I'll keep that in mind. I'm going to pick up a 5 micron locally to see how well it works. I have read in another forum where some guy uses a 1 micron with gravity but I'm too chicken to go that low until I see for myself how well it works with a 5. I've also read on the Wyeast site that yeast is 5-10 micron so I really don't know if I need to go ultra fine?
 
tgmartin000 said:
I've also been battling a gout flare up and have been considering filtering my beers. It seems like a huge pia, and it's probably the alcohol, not the yeast that is the main culprit, imo. I'd be interested to hear if it helps you, though. Keep us posted!
Click to expand...

Will do. My gout isn't too bad yet, kind of a stabbing pain in my big toe and foot that comes and goes quickly. Just slows me down a bit.
 
From what I understand, yeast will flow right through a 5 micron filter.
1 micron using a C02 push may get you there.
 
In my experience, the cartridge style filters do not really do much for clarity unless you use the expensive "absolute" rated filters. I usually use gelatin, and the beers turn out incredibly clear. All the yeast and any chill haze is dropped from suspension. Gelatin is really cheap at the grocery store and takes much less work to use compared to a filter system.
 
BrewerBrad82 said:
In my experience, the cartridge style filters do not really do much for clarity unless you use the expensive "absolute" rated filters. I usually use gelatin, and the beers turn out incredibly clear. All the yeast and any chill haze is dropped from suspension. Gelatin is really cheap at the grocery store and takes much less work to use compared to a filter system.
Click to expand...


If gelatin dropped "all the yeast" out of suspension, you'd see a lot of "my beer didn't carb!" threads on here.
 
BrewerBrad82 said:
In my experience, the cartridge style filters do not really do much for clarity unless you use the expensive "absolute" rated filters. I usually use gelatin, and the beers turn out incredibly clear. All the yeast and any chill haze is dropped from suspension. Gelatin is really cheap at the grocery store and takes much less work to use compared to a filter system.
Click to expand...

Yes, I've read there's a difference between nominal and absolute filters. I may end up with a 1 micron absolute washable filter if I find filtering not too much of a pain.
 
blizz81 said:
If gelatin dropped "all the yeast" out of suspension, you'd see a lot of "my beer didn't carb!" threads on here.
Click to expand...

This is true, I should not have said "all the yeast" :drunk:. It will, however remove a ton of it, and I'd be willing to bet that it would remove more than using a 5 micron nominal rated cartridge filter. I was looking at it from more of a cost/labor perspective on ways to reduce the yeast in a finished beer.
 
Thanks for the advice. I will probably try a finer filter next time but I think this one did pretty much what I wanted it to do but I'll find out when I finish off the keg and check for sediment.
 
tgmartin000 said:
Have you noticed any effects on your gout yet?
Click to expand...

Not yet. The two beers I have filtered are lagering and I have 3 other kegs to get through before them. I've just cut way down on beer consumption and try to stay away from real yeasty beers. Drinking lots of water has helped as well. I haven't had a bout with gout in a month.
 
Quick update, tapped my first 5 micron filtered Helles after 2.5 weeks in the keg. First pint had no floaties but still has a little chill haze. Taste is smooth and a little grainy. I think it could use another week or two but so far the filter has accomplished what I wanted.
 
Another update. After 4 weeks beer tastes great, clean, smooth and malty. Finished off the keg and checked for sediment and there was a little bit, much less than no filter but a 5 micron does not take out all the yeast. Last two batches I used a 1 micron so in a month or so we shall see if there's any sediment.
 
Our pleated filters, 5 micron and larger, are cleanable - you can spray them out with a hose from the inside out. Haven't tried it but it may also be possible to clean them by reversing flow and running clean water through the filter while it is still in the housing.

There were some comments on absolute verses "regular" filters.
"Regular" filters, better called "Nominal" are designed to remove about 85% of the particulates at the pore size and larger under test conditions.
Absolute rated filters are designed to remove 99.9% of the particulates at the pore size and larger under test conditions.

And yes, you'll pay more for absolute rated filters.

Russ
 
I've been thinking of getting a washable absolute 1 micron filter but want to see how the nominal 1 micron works first. I found some deals on EBay where I can buy in bulk for about a couple bucks each. That's worth it to me instead of the headache of cleaning and storing a washable.
 
Also realize that for any given nominal filter, say a 1 micron nominal, it can also be thought of as an absolute filter of a larger pore size. Not all manufacturer's provide this data on their sediment filters however.

Also be careful with cut rate filters. We had a lab in the US look at some 1 mic melt blown imported sediment filters for us. Guess what? They turned out to be around 20 micron.
 
Cool, probably buy a case of 50 from you guys in the near future.

So what absolute filter do you think compares to a 1 micron nominal? Do you think a 1 micron will remove all the yeast?
 
I'm not certain, but as a frame of reference, we have a 0.5 micron carbon (nominal) that is 2 micron absolute.

We have 10" x 2.5"
0.5 mic nominal melt blown
1 mic nominal melt blown
5 mic nominal melt blown
0.2 mic absolute pleated
0.35 mic nominal pleated

And if you are ordering in case quantities we can get just about anything you can imagine.

All things considered, if I were you I'd set up a two-housing configuration with a 5 mic nominal followed by a 1 mic nominal, and see how you like the results before you buy a case of anything. We can help you with housings and fittings if needed.

Russ
 
Some good advice above!

My 2¢:

Yeast cells are about 5µm. I've looked at loads of them under a scope. Some are smaller and larger. You'd want at least an absolute 2µm filter to get most of them. Bacteria will still get through.

I filter pilsners with a 5µm plate filter. With gelatin and cold crashing, I can get 10g through a pair of filters (there's two filters inside the plate). That's at 10psi. At that point, those filters are spent. If it's a beer that hasn't cleared substantially already, I might not get 5g through them. I'm very surprised that you got yours through that cartridge filter with only gravity.

If you intend on using 1µm filters, which is what I'd recommend for your needs, they will clog very quickly. You'll go through a bunch of them. Make sure your beer is very clear (sounds like they are). I think you'll need to push with gas.
 
Andrew - I was thinking about a two-stage set up with a 5 mic followed by a 1 mic to minimize the loading you talk about. The good thing here is that (nominal) sediment filters are not expensive, so you can afford to do a little experimenting to see what works best for you.

RUss
 
Buckeye_Hydro said:
Andrew - I was thinking about a two-stage set up with a 5 mic followed by a 1 mic to minimize the loading you talk about. The good thing here is that (nominal) sediment filters are not expensive, so you can afford to do a little experimenting to see what works best for you.

RUss
Click to expand...

Yes, I got that. That's an excellent idea Russ. I think that's the way to go.

BTW, I have a RO/DI TDS filtration system to make water for my reef tank. Pretty sweet. I use that water to make beer sometime. 1µm > carbon > DI > RO.
 
passedpawn said:
Some good advice above!

My 2¢:

Yeast cells are about 5µm. I've looked at loads of them under a scope. Some are smaller and larger. You'd want at least an absolute 2µm filter to get most of them. Bacteria will still get through.

I filter pilsners with a 5µm plate filter. With gelatin and cold crashing, I can get 10g through a pair of filters (there's two filters inside the plate). That's at 10psi. At that point, those filters are spent. If it's a beer that hasn't cleared substantially already, I might not get 5g through them. I'm very surprised that you got yours through that cartridge filter with only gravity.

If you intend on using 1µm filters, which is what I'd recommend for your needs, they will clog very quickly. You'll go through a bunch of them. Make sure your beer is very clear (sounds like they are). I think you'll need to push with gas.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the info. I was a little surprised the filter worked by gravity as well. I actually had to slow it down some. I cold crash for a few days before filtering so yes the beer is pretty clear. Maybe filtering only 2.5 gal also has something to do with my success? I'd like to keep it simple as possible and use gravity and one filter, maybe even try a .5 micron, I think it may work but I'll see how the sediment looks in my 1 micron filtered keg first. The 5 micron only left a real thin skin of yeast so I don't think I'm too far off.

Next brew I'm going to change up my fermentation schedule a bit and instead of filtering after a 2 week fermentation then lagering, I'm going to ferment 2 weeks, lower slowly to lagering temps and hold for another 2 weeks (all in primary) then filter to keg, carb and condition for 2-3 weeks.
 
wobdee said:
Thanks for the info. I was a little surprised the filter worked by gravity as well. I actually had to slow it down some. I cold crash for a few days before filtering so yes the beer is pretty clear. Maybe filtering only 2.5 gal also has something to do with my success? I'd like to keep it simple as possible and use gravity and one filter, maybe even try a .5 micron, I think it may work but I'll see how the sediment looks in my 1 micron filtered keg first. The 5 micron only left a real thin skin of yeast so I don't think I'm too far off.

Next brew I'm going to change up my fermentation schedule a bit and instead of filtering after a 2 week fermentation then lagering, I'm going to ferment 2 weeks, lower slowly to lagering temps and hold for another 2 weeks (all in primary) then filter to keg, carb and condition for 2-3 weeks.
Click to expand...

Have you considered yeast immobilization? The yeast are contained in beads so you can more easily remove it when fermentation is finished. The beads allow the wort to pass through and fermentation to occur, but the yeast are entrapped (for the most part). Check out the link below.

The materials to do this are very easy to come by on Amazon (PM me and I'll send you links to what I bought). It doesn't completely stop free yeast in your beer, but I've got some ideas how to improve the process and further reduce the presence of yeast. Anyway, check it out. I don't think the process is too hard and it might save you a lot of money in filters :)

Yeast immobilization: magic beans of fermentation
 
passedpawn said:
Have you considered yeast immobilization? The yeast are contained in beads so you can more easily remove it when fermentation is finished. The beads allow the wort to pass through and fermentation to occur, but the yeast are entrapped (for the most part). Check out the link below.

The materials to do this are very easy to come by on Amazon (PM me and I'll send you links to what I bought). It doesn't completely stop free yeast in your beer, but I've got some ideas how to improve the process and further reduce the presence of yeast. Anyway, check it out. I don't think the process is too hard and it might save you a lot of money in filters :)

Yeast immobilization: magic beans of fermentation
Click to expand...

Interesting stuff, thanks
 

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