BLING BLING Electric HERMS Conversion

CornyKegs 728
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Just used an 1 1/4 punch for my element hole and am realizing the 1 1/4 conduit must mean the conduit's ID is 1 1/4 and my hole is about 1 3/4 for where my element needs to go and I now want to throw up because I think I just ruined my brand new F'ing cooler.
 
IrregularPulse said:
Just used an 1 1/4 punch for my element hole and am realizing the 1 1/4 conduit must mean the conduit's ID is 1 1/4 and my hole is about 1 3/4 for where my element needs to go and I now want to throw up because I think I just ruined my brand new F'ing cooler.
Click to expand...

Yes, if you are using punches, like for electrical boxes, the PUNCH and DIE are NOT the hole size. They are different, there are typically charts that accompany the slug or punch or die sets (whatever you want to call them) to show you the hole size that corresponds with a certain punch size. They are not the same :(
 
smellysell said:
For the 4 wires coming into the control panel, the 2 hots and neutral go to the distribution block and the ground goes to the ground bar right?
Click to expand...

Yes, that is how I have done it and seen others too.
 
IrregularPulse said:
Just used an 1 1/4 punch for my element hole and am realizing the 1 1/4 conduit must mean the conduit's ID is 1 1/4 and my hole is about 1 3/4 for where my element needs to go and I now want to throw up because I think I just ruined my brand new F'ing cooler.
Click to expand...

Ouch. Measure twice, cut once......
 
The Pol said:
Or measure thrice... I am drilling Blichmans today :confused:
Click to expand...

Yes definitely measure thrice!!

I've source some SS 2"OD, 1"ID washers for $0.82 down the road from work. I'll have to run out and work tomorrow and pick a couple out and have the machine shop guys for them out to the correct size for me. My element will be coming with me to work tomorrow. I'll use one inside and one outside. This should handle the issue of needing something to help solidify the bottom anyway. Need to get a high temp silicone and just silicone them both on permanently. I hope there are enough thread on the element to pass through both washers and still catch the nut......
 
BTW Conduit size refers to the inner diameter of the conduit that will fit in the hole, I believe. These are called "conduit" punches usually.
If you find a "chassis" or "radio chassis" punch, its size will rather indicate the exact hole size.

for example, 1/2" conduit size will give you a 7/8" hole, good for weldless setups. I'm guessing a 1 3/8" conduit punch will give a 1" hole for the elements.
 
FWIW...

I was looking at getting a slug set like this to make the holes in my Blichmans... problem was that I talked to Wayne over at BargainFittings about the .90" hole that a 1/2" punch will make. He said it would be too sloppy and recommended the step drill that I already own.

FWIW
 
The Pol said:
FWIW...

I was looking at getting a slug set like this to make the holes in my Blichmans... problem was that I talked to Wayne over at BargainFittings about the .90" hole that a 1/2" punch will make. He said it would be too sloppy and recommended the step drill that I already own.

FWIW
Click to expand...

Can't 'pull the trigger' on that drill yet as far as defiling the Blichmans? :D
 
The Blichmans are finished... scary drilling all those holes!

The end product:
P1030663.JPG


P1030661.JPG
 
I built a control box following what The Pol did (at least I hope). I plugged in the control box today and tested with a voltmeter. All power goes where it should when the switches are flipped. The main 240V/30A power cord has GFI in it - does not trigger when just the box is plugged in. I think that is all good

Now, somehow I ordered the wrong thermocouple. So I have the element in the keg and wired to the two hots, but the neutral and ground are not hooked up from the 10-3 wire that comes from heating element to control box. So I have the two pole switch off so that no power will be going to the element yet. AS SOON AS I PLUG IN THE HEATING ELEMENT THE GFI POPS!!!!!

What would cause this?
 
Hey Pol, the Blichmann looks sweet. I'm doing a very similar HLT (albeit very ghetto) for my new single-tier HERMS system. This will be my new HLT (just got it from the welder this weekend).

20ab5e1e9520adfd37754c231d751afb.jpg
 
It's just the aluminum lid from a turkey fryer. I always cut 12" holes in the tops of my kettles, and 12" lids are easy to find in houseware isles :^)
 
uabericm said:
Blichmans look great. When do we get a description of what is going on inside the pots?
Click to expand...

(2) 4500W heating elements

(1) 50' SS chiller, mounted on TriClamps

(1) recirculating arm for cooling

That is about it, this is the BK
 
So I figured you guys would ask a bunch of questions and I wanted to check a few things out to make sure I posted accurately.

Right now I have everything set up as a 4 wire and have a pigtail on the end to go to my current apt's 3 wire stove outlet. I ran the 4th wire (ground from the pig tale and clamped on some conduit. On the BK the Neutral (white) and Ground (green) are not connected, but when they both touch the BK the GFI POPS. If only one of them is touching, it is good. I then disconnected the Clamped ground and tried it - with both touching the BK nothing popped.

The GFI only pops if the 4th wire is grounded and both the neutral and the ground are connected to the BK. So my question is how do you hook both up to the BK? Not sure what is going on. (kept ground and neutral separate throughout system).
 
yellow said:
I built a control box following what The Pol did (at least I hope). I plugged in the control box today and tested with a voltmeter. All power goes where it should when the switches are flipped. The main 240V/30A power cord has GFI in it - does not trigger when just the box is plugged in. I think that is all good

Now, somehow I ordered the wrong thermocouple. So I have the element in the keg and wired to the two hots, but the neutral and ground are not hooked up from the 10-3 wire that comes from heating element to control box. So I have the two pole switch off so that no power will be going to the element yet. AS SOON AS I PLUG IN THE HEATING ELEMENT THE GFI POPS!!!!!

What would cause this?
Click to expand...

Not wanting to get nailed by the nanny state, I've kind of held my tongue on GFI's for these units since no one was reporting problems. As an appliance repairman, I learned to hate these things with a passion. I've seen brand new appliances plugged into them and they'd pop. I'd get bitched at left and right because when I plugged the appliance into a regular socket, they worked just fine. "Well, there MUST be something wrong with the applaince....."
 
Hermit said:
Not wanting to get nailed by the nanny state, I've kind of held my tongue on GFI's for these units since no one was reporting problems. As an appliance repairman, I learned to hate these things with a passion. I've seen brand new appliances plugged into them and they'd pop. I'd get bitched at left and right because when I plugged the appliance into a regular socket, they worked just fine. "Well, there MUST be something wrong with the applaince....."
Click to expand...


Any suggestions? Not sure if you saw the last post about it only popping when the Neutral and Ground are connected at the BK.
 
Hermit said:
Technically the neutral should not go to the BK. Just the ground.
Click to expand...

Ground the BK and just not hook up the neutral to the BK.

SO the two hots are potted in the heating element, then just drill a small hole in the bottom ring of the BK to ground it and call it good?

Can you explain what is happening when the Ground and Neutral are connected? It sure would help me understand what the heck is going on.....
 
yellow said:
Ground the BK and just not hook up the neutral to the BK.

SO the two hots are potted in the heating element, then just drill a small hole in the bottom ring of the BK to ground it and call it good?

Can you explain what is happening when the Ground and Neutral are connected? It sure would help me understand what the heck is going on.....
Click to expand...

All I know if GFI has been a pain in my axe sometimes. Most 240 volt appliances still come with the neutral grounded to the cabinet. The only suggestion I have would be is to take a meter and do some checking. IN THEORY you should not get a voltage reading between ground and neutral. You may be.
 
yellow said:
I built a control box following what The Pol did (at least I hope). I plugged in the control box today and tested with a voltmeter. All power goes where it should when the switches are flipped. The main 240V/30A power cord has GFI in it - does not trigger when just the box is plugged in. I think that is all good

Now, somehow I ordered the wrong thermocouple. So I have the element in the keg and wired to the two hots, but the neutral and ground are not hooked up from the 10-3 wire that comes from heating element to control box. So I have the two pole switch off so that no power will be going to the element yet. AS SOON AS I PLUG IN THE HEATING ELEMENT THE GFI POPS!!!!!

What would cause this?
Click to expand...

The white neutral needs to return to the GFI. The green ground should tie to any exposed metal in the system. The nuetral and gnd do not get connected together or the GFI will trip (the nuetral current will bypass the GFI if you tie them together). I'm not an electrician, but I believe I am correct here.
 
Hermit said:
All I know if GFI has been a pain in my axe sometimes. Most 240 volt appliances still come with the neutral grounded to the cabinet. The only suggestion I have would be is to take a meter and do some checking. IN THEORY you should not get a voltage reading between ground and neutral. You may be.
Click to expand...

There is no voltage between the neutral and ground.
 
passedpawn said:
The white neutral needs to return to the GFI. The green ground should tie to any exposed metal in the system. The nuetral and gnd do not get connected together or the GFI will trip (the nuetral current will bypass the GFI if you tie them together). I'm not an electrician, but I believe I am correct here.
Click to expand...

I thought the two where originally connected when they come into the house and after that are never supposed to meet again.

If the neutral is not connected to the BK and I cannot get to the GFI since it is part of the 10G 30A cord what should I do with the Neutral? Just not hook it up to the BK and cap it?
 
So, I'm guessing that based on the new BK, you've decided to do some batches bigger than 5 gallons?
 
yellow said:
I thought the two where originally connected when they come into the house and after that are never supposed to meet again.

If the neutral is not connected to the BK and I cannot get to the GFI since it is part of the 10G 30A cord what should I do with the Neutral? Just not hook it up to the BK and cap it?
Click to expand...

sure, I'd crimp an end cap on there, or you could wirenut and tape it.
 
diatonic said:
So, I'm guessing that based on the new BK, you've decided to do some batches bigger than 5 gallons?
Click to expand...

ABSOLUTELY! Been brewing with my step-dad which is great. Get to hang out and spend time together and get a great product out of it. Plus we figured out that with a 5 gal batch there isn't enough for the two of us so to bypass any fist-a-cuffs we are going 10gal.
 
The Pol said:
Or measure thrice... I am drilling Blichmans today :confused:
Click to expand...

Or 10 times! That's what I did before I put holes in my $1500 worth of Blichmann pots for elements and other attachments.

I have a bunch of instructions/tips/pictures here on how to do it right:

http://www.theelectricbrewery.com/

Click on "Heating Elements" (the only article online as of today...)

Kal
 
The Pol,

You said that this is for a boil kettle.

I noticed that you are not using ultra low density elements in your kettle.

I have heard about the story of scorching the wort, have you been able to disprove this as a myth?
 
Battery Acid Bo said:
The Pol,

You said that this is for a boil kettle.

I noticed that you are not using ultra low density elements in your kettle.

I have heard about the story of scorching the wort, have you been able to disprove this as a myth?
Click to expand...

Low Density elements work fine
 

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