Can't tell if you're being rude or are just terribly dense.
Of course the apparent color of the beer changes color. When the yeast have reproduced to appropriate concentrations they will spread throughout the wort and make the wort look much much lighter. Then, once they drop out, the beer will get much darker.... and also much darker than what it will look like in a pint glass.
How about you take some advice from people who know what they are doing and not insist that you know the answer to the question you're asking.
Did you read the process we followed for that extract brew??? Boiling hops, cutting off burner, then adding all extract WITHOUT turning burner back on.
Have you ever done that? The brew was yellow. By the time the 10-day primary was up, it had changed to a light brown (still almost yellow). By the half-way point of the 3-week secondary, the beer was half the original light brown when it was transferred, while the other half was a "bloodier", "rustier" color. All of it is that bloody, rusty color now... although it started out as yellow as a manila envelope.
Soo.... are you doubting me?? Or have you never actually done this process before?
The distinction between different phases of fermentation was not easily visible to me with "caramelized extract" that was boiled for 60 minutes. It wasn't until the Light LME was all added *after* the boil that I was able to see these VERY distinct color changes.
*sigh* if you are really going to be this defensive, then let's use
the scientific method.
State your hypothesis and predictions up front as to why whirlpooling will help your beer.
As soon as this thread fades into oblivion and I finish the book,
Yeast... I will then be able to make my hypothesis.
And oxygen causes oxidation, which means off flavors in your beer. Also, maybe I'm not understanding your statement, but I don't get a whirlpool when I use my racking cane. Maybe you're doing something wrong.
Here's what we do when it's time to bottle....
(1) Start racking to bottling bucket
(2) At 25% to 33% full level, we then add the priming sugar.
(3) Continue racking to bottling bucket
(4) Take racking cane and dip it all the way down into the bucket.
(5) Swirl racking cane around inner portion of bucket, until vortex is achieved.
Similar to how this stir plate forms a vertex...
Again, since using this new "process", as opposed to my friend's "let the hose make a 'natural whirlpool'" process... we have 100% consistent bottled beer now. It's just that simple. With his method, there were always carbonation problems... whereas now, there are none!
EDIT: from that video, I have found my hypothesis.... creating a whirlpool facilitates an environment in which the yeast are GUARANTEED to dominate!