bjl110
Well-Known Member
I am currently brewing my first PM. Woohoo! Only a couple more steps until i brew my BDSA!
Next step.....
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Congrats on your first partial mash. What's a BDSA?
Congrats on the PM. But like Pappers said...
what's a BDSA?
Big Drinking Super Ale?
what's a BDSA?
Big Drinking Super Ale?
FromZwolle
I don't want to be cremated, I want to be malted.
bad dogs sleep alone.
Big damn summer ale?
Big double sexy algorithm?
But Don't Smell A$$?
Germelli1
Well-Known Member
Big Derrière seeking ale?
Big Dog Smells Ale?
FromZwolle
I don't want to be cremated, I want to be malted.
Bud Drinkers Suck Acetaldehyde!
I loled at that last one. Bmc Smells Donky a$$?
Big dime sack ale?
Bio Degradable Sam Adams?
Germelli1
Well-Known Member
bid d** slang ale (Tosh.0 anybody?)
Ok,I'll take a serious shot;Big Dunkel SMaSH Ale?
FromZwolle
I don't want to be cremated, I want to be malted.
Blind Doctors Slip Alot.
Big Doppel Saison Ale?
FromZwolle
I don't want to be cremated, I want to be malted.
think: b is for country of origin, d is for srm, s is for gravity.
Germelli1
Well-Known Member
Brazilian Dorado Sanguine Ale?
Belgian Dubbel Blonde Ale?
FromZwolle
I don't want to be cremated, I want to be malted.
that's the one! great on a picnic.
bjl110
Well-Known Member
HAHAHA! I chose this one.
But seriously, Zwolle's last post was right. b=country, d=srm, s=gravity, a=type of beer (not lager but....)
Germelli1
Well-Known Member
It's my house ale, friends and family can't get enough of it!
BELGIAN DARK STRONG ALE....what do I win
bjl110
Well-Known Member
Just finished sparging. Waiting for the boil....
bjl110
Well-Known Member
Oh,well...I suck at the one with pics too. Never heard of that ale,though...got a pic?
bjl110
Well-Known Member
I haven't brewed one yet, still want to make a brew with a starter first. Just want to get every step done once BEFORE I make one.
You've seen one before probably, just didn't know that some people (or maybe just me) call them that. Since the definition of what exactly makes a quad/dubbel etc varies much, I have just started referring to them as BDSA. Maybe it isn't kosher in beerology terms, or by the beer judging acronym categorization, but I ain't Jewish. In my definition in my head, every quadruppel qualifies as a BDSA.
You've seen one before probably, just didn't know that some people (or maybe just me) call them that. Since the definition of what exactly makes a quad/dubbel etc varies much, I have just started referring to them as BDSA. Maybe it isn't kosher in beerology terms, or by the beer judging acronym categorization, but I ain't Jewish.
In my definition in my head, every quadruppel qualifies as a BDSA.
FromZwolle
I don't want to be cremated, I want to be malted.
bjl110
Well-Known Member
So I just thought of this for those of you following....
I'm only doing 30 min or later additions. I was going to boil the whole 60, but do I have to? Since my first addition is at 30 could I just start there?
I'm only doing 30 min or later additions. I was going to boil the whole 60, but do I have to? Since my first addition is at 30 could I just start there?
Germelli1
Well-Known Member
To me I boil for 60 or 90 for a few reasons:
1. I account for it in my volume calculations for sparging, so once I start a btach there is no turning back
2. Drive off DMS when using pilsner malt
3. Hop utilization
Since it is a partial mash and none of these apply to you, I see no reason you couldn't just boil for 30, but hopefully others will chime in if there is an error in my logic!
1. I account for it in my volume calculations for sparging, so once I start a btach there is no turning back
2. Drive off DMS when using pilsner malt
3. Hop utilization
Since it is a partial mash and none of these apply to you, I see no reason you couldn't just boil for 30, but hopefully others will chime in if there is an error in my logic!
There wouldn't be much bittering. 30 minutes or less is flavor/aroma territory.
bjl110
Well-Known Member
Yes, but even if I boiled for an hour, there still wouldn't be. All my additions are 30 or later anyway.
For moe info, I'm making Biermunchers Centennial Blonde, but I changed up the hops to look like this:
.25 Simcoe @ 30
.25 Simcoe @ 20
.5 Simcoe @ 10
.5 Simcoe @ 5
Gives me ~30 IBU
So (at least in my logic) unless the first 30 min of boiling does "something" (maybe disperses proteins or something, I don't know just guessing) there wouldn't be any reason to boil longer that 30 total. Question is: does it do something?
For moe info, I'm making Biermunchers Centennial Blonde, but I changed up the hops to look like this:
.25 Simcoe @ 30
.25 Simcoe @ 20
.5 Simcoe @ 10
.5 Simcoe @ 5
Gives me ~30 IBU
So (at least in my logic) unless the first 30 min of boiling does "something" (maybe disperses proteins or something, I don't know just guessing) there wouldn't be any reason to boil longer that 30 total. Question is: does it do something?
chaydaw
Well-Known Member
unionrdr said:
He doesn't want the bittering. He only has 30 min or less additions thus he does not need to boil the normal 60 mins.
bjl110
Well-Known Member
Going with the only 30 boil time. Making my first addition now....
No bittering at all? Even I use cooper's Original Series cans for the little bittering additions they have. Then spent the 20-25 minutes of flavor/aroma additions with the 3lbs of plain DME I use.
I didn't mean boil for 60 minutes anyway,I meant where's the bittering?
I didn't mean boil for 60 minutes anyway,I meant where's the bittering?
FromZwolle
I don't want to be cremated, I want to be malted.
remember to adjust water volumes. unless you're doing a partial boil, then it won't matter much.
chaydaw
Well-Known Member
He's making a malt forward beer. They don't always need bittering.
bjl110
Well-Known Member
I'm still pushing the style on IBUs, even thought there is no bittering. In recent years there have been some articles done on it that I have read. Supposedly it gives pretty much the same flavor/aroma, but is much smoother. Mr.malty has a late hop article, and the brewstrong podcast recommends it for upping the "thinness" of session beers. So, it sems that if you up the hop additions, you will be able to account for the lack of bittering in low ABV beers. I'm not only using a higher AA hop, but .5 more than the original recipe calls for. Overall, I look at everything I make as an experiment. It may not come out like I think it may, and then I'll know not to do that again, but it may be spectacular. Only way to know for sure is to try!
Clementine
Well-Known Member
Cool I read this a couple of weeks ago on Mr Malty, on my last weekend brew it tried it out, TBA on results. Although I did not totally cut out the bitter hops I dialed them way back and increased the aroma/flavor additions at 30/10/5/0. Can wait to try it.
I think I saw it on a BrewingTV episode where I guy was making an IPA, he said the reason he did it was same IBU with a rounder less harsh bite to it. Also there was no way a commercial brewery could afford to do it with the oz, no wait, pounds of hops he was adding!
Clem
Now that I read this,it's what I'm doing in my own way. Malt forward,as I used to say when I 1st signed on here. The cooper's OS lager is a good example of this,when properly brewed/fermented. I use a cooper's OS can (very little bittering) with 3lbs of Munton's plain DME to get the malt forward style quite easily if I want it. Aroma/flavor hops in to additions at 20 & 10,or 20,10,& -10. Malty goodness with a nice,balanced hop flavor on the back with some aroma. More than one way to skin a cat. I've been doing that from the start,just changing the malt profile/colors by changing which cooper's OS can I use as a base. Then change the hop schedule to get more different styles. Always,hops on the back. Even my IPA will have a light toasty flavor ahead of the hops.
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