96+ hours, no CO2 output, but it's making alcohol?

BrewSwag 728
Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum

Help Support Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Toby2

Toby2

Active Member
Joined
Sep 28, 2009
Messages
39
Reaction score
0
Location
New Smyrna Beach, FL
I brewed my first batch (Pale Ale Kit) last Saturday night. I used the dry yeast (Muntons) that came with the kit and followed the directions on the yeast packet. I pitched the yeast and saw no CO2 activitiy 24 hours latter and decided to do a little online research and reflection of my process.

After same, I decided my wort was to hot (90'F+) and the yeast wasn't really foaming as it should in the warm water starter container. I also think I could have added a little more air to the wort. I simply poured it in from the pot to the bucket. Thinking I may have killed the yeast or that it wasn't active in the first place, I decided to repitch with some liquid yeast (Wyeast 1028 London) I had for my next batch.

I repitched late Sunday and decided to give the beer a few days. As of last night (96 hours), I still didn't have any visable sign of CO2. I pulled a Hyrdometer reading and was shocked to find it was making alcohol with no bubbles in the airlock. The OG was 53 and the reading last night was 23.

Does this sound strange? Why don't I have bubbles in the airlock?

-Container is tight with no airleaks
-The high OG is due to additional hops I added
-The whole 5 gallon batch was boiled, no cool water addition
-Wort was in the low 80'F at 12 hours
-Current temperature of the beer is 77'F and rock steady

From this point on, I'll use a starter...


Toby
 
This has never happened to me, but I've read in a number of threads that airlock activity is not a definitive symptom of fermentation. I'd trust the hydrometer.
 
Toby2 said:
Does this sound strange? Why don't I have bubbles in the airlock?

-Container is tight with no airleaks
-The high OG is due to additional hops I added
-The whole 5 gallon batch was boiled, no cool water addition
-Wort was in the low 80'F at 12 hours
-Current temperature of the beer is 77'F and rock steady

From this point on, I'll use a starter...


Toby
Click to expand...

First, RDWHAHB (or a craft beer :mug:)

Second, check your assumptions. How do you know you have no leaks? Did you pressure test your fermenter? I would trust a instrument like your hydrometer over a 30 cent bucket gasket any day.
 
Toby2 said:
Thinking I may have killed the yeast or that it wasn't active in the first place, I decided to repitch with some liquid yeast (Wyeast 1028 London) I had for my next batch.
Click to expand...

In the future, I would probably take a hydro reading before pitching new yeast. There are many people on the forums here that have spoken of full fermentations without seeing a single bubble in the airlock. The only way you can be sure fermentation is going on is with a hydro reading.

Toby2 said:
-The high OG is due to additional hops I added
...
-Wort was in the low 80'F at 12 hours
-Current temperature of the beer is 77'F and rock steady
Click to expand...

Just a few thoughts. Unless we're talking about something I'm completely unfamiliar with, you don't get an increased gravity because of hops. Gravity is a measure of the sugars in your beer.

For a first brew, your temperatures are not uncommon. On your next couple of batches, I would put a little more focus in to lowering those temperatures. Almost everyone on these forums preaches that the biggest improvement in their homebrews came when they were able to lower, and control their fermentation temps.

All that being said, I'm willing to bet that you'll have a very drinkable first brew. Welcome to the forums BTW!
 
Sounds like you had a very sneaky fermentation. The 80f temp is a little warm - you may get some off flavors from that. 77f is just barely on the right temp - I would try and bring it down a little more if possible on your next brew. Its a little late now, as it seems your main fermentation is done, but just something to keep in mind.

RDWHAHB!
 
MMW said:
First, RDWHAHB (or a craft beer :mug:)

Second, check your assumptions. How do you know you have no leaks? Did you pressure test your fermenter? I would trust a instrument like your hydrometer over a 30 cent bucket gasket any day.
Click to expand...

Sorry, very new. What does "RDWHAHB" mean? If it as to do with the kit, it's a store bought partial grain kit.

Toby
 
MMW said:
First, RDWHAHB (or a craft beer :mug:)

Second, check your assumptions. How do you know you have no leaks? Did you pressure test your fermenter? I would trust a instrument like your hydrometer over a 30 cent bucket gasket any day.
Click to expand...


I forgot this part. As for leaks, I pushed down on the lid and held steady pressure and watched for any movement in the airlock. If I had a leak, I would have seen movement. None.
Not to mention, I used a rubber malet to put the lid on.

Toby
 
Toby2 said:
I forgot this part. As for leaks, I pushed down on the lid and held steady pressure and watched for any movement in the airlock. If I had a leak, I would have seen movement. None.
Not to mention, I used a rubber malet to put the lid on.

Toby
Click to expand...


RDWHAHB - relax, dont worry, have a homebrew.

I might be reading this wrong, but it sounds to me like if you push down on your lid, hold even pressure, and you DON'T see airlock activity, then you DO have a leak - the air you are pressing down is escaping through somewhere that isnt your airlock.

It is not uncommon for buckets to have leaks, I wouldn't worry about it too much.
 
DRoyLenz said:
In the future, I would probably take a hydro reading before pitching new yeast. There are many people on the forums here that have spoken of full fermentations without seeing a single bubble in the airlock. The only way you can be sure fermentation is going on is with a hydro reading.

I agree. Will do in the future.


Just a few thoughts. Unless we're talking about something I'm completely unfamiliar with, you don't get an increased gravity because of hops. Gravity is a measure of the sugars in your beer.

As for gravity, I'm assuming the addtion of solids (hops) to a solutions increases the specific gravity. At 5 minutes from the end of the boil, I tossed in 1 oz. of hops.

All that being said, I'm willing to bet that you'll have a very drinkable first brew. Welcome to the forums BTW!
Click to expand...

Thank you.
 
corvax13 said:
RDWHAHB - relax, dont worry, have a homebrew.

I might be reading this wrong, but it sounds to me like if you push down on your lid, hold even pressure, and you DON'T see airlock activity, then you DO have a leak - the air you are pressing down is escaping through somewhere that isnt your airlock.

It is not uncommon for buckets to have leaks, I wouldn't worry about it too much.
Click to expand...

I pushed down on the lid just enough to move the water in the airlock and held it steady with steady pressure on the lid. If I had a leak, it would have settled back to the initial position.
 
-Container is tight with no airleaks
-The high OG is due to additional hops I added
-The whole 5 gallon batch was boiled, no cool water addition
-Wort was in the low 80'F at 12 hours
-Current temperature of the beer is 77'F and rock steady
Click to expand...

hops do not affect gravity only the sugars from the grain do. good that you boiled all 5 gallons with no cold water added. you should use a wart chiller and put the brew pot in a bucket of ice to bring the temp down as fast as possible to below 80F. AFTER it is below 80F aerate your wart vigorously i recommend a fish tank aerator, inline air filter, and air-stone for 20 min. try to keep your brew below 70F during fermentation.

and like the others said trust your hydrometer.
 
Cheaton said:
Have you taken a Hydrometer reading yet?
Click to expand...

Yes, one intial reading before adding the first yeast. It was 53.

I checked it last night and it had a reading of 23.

At present, I'm thinking they high pitch temperture may have sent the yeast into high gear and it may have fermented in the first few (unwatched) hours. Regardless, I'll leave it in the bucket for the next week and a few days and I'll pull three readings steady before it goes to bottle.

I'm brewing the next batch this evening and I'll have a ton of ice on hand I'll watch my temperatures like a hawk.

Toby
 
TipsyDragon said:
hops do not affect gravity only the sugars from the grain do. good that you boiled all 5 gallons with no cold water added. you should use a wart chiller and put the brew pot in a bucket of ice to bring the temp down as fast as possible to below 80F. AFTER it is below 80F aerate your wart vigorously i recommend a fish tank aerator, inline air filter, and air-stone for 20 min. try to keep your brew below 70F during fermentation.

and like the others said trust your hydrometer.
Click to expand...

I iced down the wort in the sink. I didn't have enough ice and have learned that lesson. As for adding air to it, I'm going to try a paint stiring attachment to the drill.

I live in Florida and the only way I'll be able to go below 77'F on the fermentation, will be a modified refrigerator. I have a second frig, but that's where my BEvERages are stored.

Toby
 
Relax Don't Worry Have A Homebrew! Read the Acronyms sticky, actually read all of them, it really helped me out! SWMBO is especially important!
 
Like others have mentioned, air bubbles in your airlock is not an indication of fermentation. Sounds like you have a leaky seal on your bucket or a very fast fermentation. The latter is very likely as you fermented almost 20 degrees too warm.

If you would like to up your chances of seeing air bubbles coming out of your airlock, you should look into purchasing a glass or plastic carboy with a rubber bung (haha) as you will greatly reduce the chance of a leak. Also, use the search feature on the upper right of this website and enter keyword swamp cooler.
 
phatuna said:
Like others have mentioned, air bubbles in your airlock is not an indication of fermentation. Sounds like you have a leaky seal on your bucket or a very fast fermentation. The latter is very likely as you fermented almost 20 degrees too warm.

If you would like to up your chances of seeing air bubbles coming out of your airlock, you should look into purchasing a glass or plastic carboy with a rubber bung (haha) as you will greatly reduce the chance of a leak. Also, use the search feature on the upper right of this website and enter keyword swamp cooler.
Click to expand...


Assuming the fermentation took of immedately and the intial dry yeast ate the sugar, what happened to the liquid yeast? Not a bubble from the second pitch.

Toby
 
Super quick is no problem, the high ferm temp CAN put off "esters" which will give your beer a slight banana off flavor. Search esters in the search field.

This is not a certainty but there is a chance that you will get off flavors. Your beer will be fine RHASLDJQOERTOQI or whatever
 
I wouldn't worry to much I have this happen a couple times. As long as there is foam and you getting a gravity reading be patient. I had a Pilsner to take over a week to start because of temps. I let it be and it turned out great.
 
All,

Thanks for the advice and ideas. I'll wait till late next week and pull some gravities. I'm looking for a FG of approximately (50 / 3.7) 14 and when I see a stable reading I'll bottle.

I'll post the outcome to this thread in about three weeks. Skunk or otherwise, I'll drink it. It's my first.

As a foot note, Batch #2 (Watney's Cream Stout clone is) about 20 minutes from cooldown and I will not repeat the same mistakes I did with the Pale Ale. I have three ten pound bags of ice and I'll cool this one down quickly. I also have a completely swollen liquid yeast.

Soon, I'll be able to RAHAHB,

Toby
 
Toby2 said:
I live in Florida and the only way I'll be able to go below 77'F on the fermentation, will be a modified refrigerator. I have a second frig, but that's where my BEvERages are stored.
Click to expand...

I went with the swamp cooler method. What I did was this:

First, I got this 10 gallon tub that we have had for years. It resembles this:

6a00e398248092883301156fc94993970c-500pi


I placed my fermenting bucket in there and filled the tub 1/2 full of water. Then I dropped in several 20 oz. frozen bottles of water. Cover the bucket with a t-shirt (I discovered that it needs to be an old, well-used t-shirt - new ones have scotch-guard type treatments and won't wick the water up) and make sure the bottom of the t-shirt is all the way down into the water. Wet the part that isn't in the water to initiate wicking. Place a fan where it can blow across it.

1144319.jpg


It's been in the upper 70's to low 80's here in Knoxville, and pretty humid. My ferment temp hung between 68 and 70. I would think (in my limited experience) that even in FL you should be able to get your ferment temp down to around 70 using this method, especially if you do it inside in the AC, keep changing out the frozen water bottles and keep the water temp in the upper 50s to low 60s. I only added the frozen bottles once to get the temp down at the beginning. After that evaporation kept it down.
 
Funny to run into this thread... I got a new primary bucket from my LHBS, and pitched my Triple A brew into it. No bubbles, no nothing for a month. After bottling it today, I looked to the top, and found that there was no seal in it. I learned two things. 1) check out what I buy. 2) you don't need the seal there to make a damn good beer.

And this recipe is going up on the board.
 
Toby2:

Welcome to homebrewtalk.com. You've found a great resource for home brewers. In my amazingly humble opinion (and I'm good-looking, too), your beer is just fine, and the yeast are doing exactly as they should. Now go stuff that fermenter in a cool, dark place for two weeks, and start getting ready for batch #2. Don't go mucking around in the fermenter any more, and don't peek in on it. Everything's cool.

You've made a good start at batch #1, and congrats on using your hydrometer to check on your beer instead of simply worrying about it.

Remember this: brewing is a craft. There are three or four different ways to do any brewing task, and they're probably all right. Ask three brewers a question, and you'll get five answers. Once you have a solid understanding of brewing processes and what's involved, simple common sense and your own intuition will help with minor hiccups in your process.

Now, if you don't have a copy of Palmer's book, go check out http://www.howtobrew.com . It's an excellent resource for new brewers. Read these forums, continue asking good questions, and you'll make great beer.
 
Toby2 said:
I brewed my first batch (Pale Ale Kit) last Saturday night. I used the dry yeast (Muntons) that came with the kit and followed the directions on the yeast packet. I pitched the yeast and saw no CO2 activitiy 24 hours latter and decided to do a little online research and reflection of my process.

After same, I decided my wort was to hot (90'F+) and the yeast wasn't really foaming as it should in the warm water starter container. I also think I could have added a little more air to the wort. I simply poured it in from the pot to the bucket. Thinking I may have killed the yeast or that it wasn't active in the first place, I decided to repitch with some liquid yeast (Wyeast 1028 London) I had for my next batch.

I repitched late Sunday and decided to give the beer a few days. As of last night (96 hours), I still didn't have any visable sign of CO2. I pulled a Hyrdometer reading and was shocked to find it was making alcohol with no bubbles in the airlock. The OG was 53 and the reading last night was 23.

Does this sound strange? Why don't I have bubbles in the airlock?

-Container is tight with no airleaks
-The high OG is due to additional hops I added
-The whole 5 gallon batch was boiled, no cool water addition
-Wort was in the low 80'F at 12 hours
-Current temperature of the beer is 77'F and rock steady

From this point on, I'll use a starter...


Toby
Click to expand...

UPDATE:

This was my first batch and I never saw a single bubble in the airlock and I left it in the primary for two weeks. I dry hopped it with one week in the secondary and saw some bubbles for a few days (different container too). I bottled it about two weeks ago and started drinking it last weekend. No notable strange tastes or off color flavors. Very, very drinkable and well received by all.

I'll brew the same batch again at some point and I'll see the results change with more strict process. In hindsight, I THINK I HAD AN AIR LEAK IN THE PRIMARY FERMENTER AND THE WAS THE ONLY PROBLEM.
 
Yes, I should have believed what I was told, but I did do as I was told.

Pipeline...Watney Clone aging in the bottle and a Belgiuim Wit ready for bottling any day now. Just ordered the loose bits to brew a Samuel Adams Ale clone and two more batches of the Watney clone. The pipeline is up and running and my process is only improving.

Thanks all,

Toby
 

Similar threads

Tony B
Curious fermentation
Replies
15
Views
881
redrocker652002
R
_Keven
No activity after 12 hours using a yeast starter
Replies
15
Views
1K
_Keven
_Keven
L
Slight Medicine or Band-Aid Flavor In Week Long Fermentation
2
Replies
40
Views
3K
mac_1103
mac_1103
B
No fermentation activity after 36 hours
Replies
21
Views
2K
BrewnWKopperKat
BrewnWKopperKat
L
Is this Stuck Fermentation?
Replies
30
Views
3K
landmissle
L
InkBird 300

Latest posts

Back
Top