EarthBound
Well-Known Member
Ah, good point. I don't have cold break in the BK because I use a CFC, so I may just initially trust it enough to brew a batch. I'll make sure I have a backup plan in case it clogs, though.
I've search all over researching how I wanted to build my version of this. From what I have gathered the window screen stuff is a No-No because of coatings they put on the screen material, either stainless or aluminum. The screen material that looks like metal is either a gray plastic type coating or clear plastic type coating.
cheezydemon3 said:I don't claim to all about it, I just know that every 6 years or so, we learn that something or other that was thought safe, isn't.
I will limit where I can.
(MSDS?)
Material Safety Data Sheet
Material Safety Data Sheet
Thats why I recommended the Polyester water filter bags. What the hell nobody listens to me anyway.
Sawdustguy said:Thats why I recommended the Polyester water filter bags.
Looks good to me!! Melting point for polyester is 480°f and they have sum with a SS ring in the top!! Win Win
[...]Would a 50 micron size be good to filter out particles while still letting the acids out?
TheOnionKnight said:Are you looking at these? http://www.thepurchaseadvantage.com/page/TPA/CTGY/polyester_bag_filters.html
Would a 50 micron size be good to filter out particles while still letting the acids out?
here is some of the screens we use 40,60,80,120 and we go to 500 on some materials.. I agree that a 30 is as fine as I would go for a hop blocker...day_trippr said:Lessee, 50 microns is near 'nuff to .002 inches, which I think is way too fine to allow water to flow through at a useful rate.
By comparison, a 40x40 SS woven cloth using .01 inch diameter wire has .015" wide openings - and I've yet to see anyone construct a hop taco or hop blocker with anything that fine. 30x30 is usually the tightest used, and that has openings more like .024" - which is a dozen times coarser than that 50 micron mesh...
Cheers!
had sum time to kill here at work so I took a 40x40 mesh and put it against a paint srainer bag under a microscope for fun..lol.. what you think
Ok, I don't get it, why would you not just use small hop bags and toss them in ?
had sum time to kill here at work so I took a 40x40 mesh and put it against a paint srainer bag under a microscope for fun..lol.. what you think
I would be really interested in seeing:
1. A nylon bag that has been used for some time (to see if they melt and thus clog more easily with use).
2. Both materials actually full of hops right after the boil. You could see how the debris lodges in there.
It's hard for me to imagine the issue of terrible wort flow, unless of course the hops are packed in there. It seems like fluid flows really easily through these. I don't bring this up to debate, I'm genuinely curious as to others' observations and thoughts on the issue.
Greg
For me a hop spider is really the only way. When I simply tried using the little hop bags they would get sucked down to the bottom of the kettle and clog up my outlet when it was time to pump the wort to the fermentor or when recirculating during cooling. I suppose I could have tried fishing them out beforehand but I like to leave the hops in the wort as long as possible while recirculating before draining.
Well I have yet to make an IPA, maybe this weekend. But besides a hop spider or the small muslin bags, which I also have concerns about hop utilization, there's really no other options.
I do intend to pick up a stainless steel hop spider in the near future but judging from the photo above, the mesh appears to be almost identical in the weave with the strainer bags. I suppose the only option is to increase the amount of hops to compensate.
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