Need help with my system....

Got the go-ahead from the SWMBO to convert the basement fridge to a kegerator.

There is a LOT of disjointed information in this forum as to what I need. I am looking to make this conversion the best it can be - I don't want to have the desire to upgrade the components further in a couple of months.

What I want: a 3-faucet system with drip tray through the door.

I've got the following:
5lb. CO2 tank with regulator
2 picnic taps
2 gas and 2 liquid ball-lock disconnects
3 3gal ball-lock cornies
2 5gal ball-lock cornies
3 basic handles

I figure I need :
3 perlick faucets (425's for disassembly/cleaning ???)
Shanks (stanless/chrome?)
Lines (need types and length recommendations for both gas and liquid)
Manifold (type - shutoffs? additonal regulators?) I can live with a single pressure for now
Drip tray to cover the 3 faucets
Other items? Small hardware - tailpieces/extra nuts?

Are normal chain-type hose clamps OK, or should I use Oetiker Clamps? Benefits?

Could you help me with this? Are these things available in one location, or do I need to look in several places? Links?

Thanks in advance,

Dave

http://stores.kegconnection.com/StoreFront.bok

I would go with perlick faucets as you indicated. I have the old style with the removable spouts. I don't take them apart very often.

The 525SS looks to be the way to go.
The 575SS has a creamer function.

You need more gas and liquid connectors. Any manifold will work but I suggest you get one with check valves in the supply valves.

A lot of people use 3/16" ID hose on 1/4" shanks. Heat to get them on. 6' of hose at around 10psi @ mid thirties works on my system. I have subsequently gone with resistance inserts to shorten the spaghetti in my chest freezer.

Go with all stainless shanks, hose barb and faucets. The gear type clamps are fine. Oetiker clamps are cleaner looking and you are less likely to cut your hand on the clamps.

Thanks for the reply. I have some questions regarding the type of tubing - I've been seeing the red gas tubing a lot as the "best." Also, someone was complaining about flavor issues with standard tubing, and has found some kind of "lined" tubing to prevent off-flavors. Also, what is a "resistance insert?" Is this something that will just increase the pressure drop? If you were able to increase the pressure drop over a shorter distance, would that work, or is there some magic to the longer length besides that?

So is there really a consensus that you can get the 525's instead of the 425's and be good over the long haul? Cheaper is better, as long as it works.

Thanks again,

Dave

Dave,

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f35/sticky-kegging-faqs-43347/

I don't have any experience with the red tubing for gas. I use the thicker wall 3/16" ID tubing for serving and gas and have had no problems with flavors.

The insert I use is from mcmaster.com item #74695A12 It basically adds resistance and slows the beer down. It allows me to cut my serving lines down to just long enough to reach my kegs in my chest freezer. To balance a system there is a formula out there based on PSI, temperature, length of hose and the hose ID.

I don't have the 525s. I will be buying them unless I can find the 425s to match the ones I already have.