cswest said:Search for "Pliny and the Blonde". They both came out real well for me.
You can do any two beers that use the same base malt. Just add any crystal separately
So if I wanted to do a barleywine I would have to do two mashes for the big beer? I thought that was contradictory to the process, I thought parti-gyle was one mash/two beers?
I was thinking that maybe the second runnings after sparging might be thin enough to dilute the color, but was unsure and hoping that someone here could confirm...
HollisBT said:I was thinking that maybe the second runnings after sparging might be thin enough to dilute the color, but was unsure and hoping that someone here could confirm...
Nope, not two mashes. It's called capping. You just drain the first beer, then add crystal/roasted malts and wait a bit, and then drain the second beer. Crystal/roasted only needs to steep for ~20 minutes. If you need steeping grains for the first but not the second beer, you can steep it in water and add it separately to the boil. Actually, if you're using any dark malts that's good practice anyways, since you can add them at the end of the boil to reduce astringency. There is only one restriction to partigyle and that is that you can't make two beers with different base malts, which means you can't use a pound of munich in one beer but not the other...unless you wanted to do a second mini-mash, which you could do. It's not as complicated as you think, it's actually the only way I brew now.
Also, I would avoid making a beer from entirely the second runnings, as I've heard that the flavor is inferior. I always do a 1/3-2/3 split, which results in a bit of the first runnings going into the second beer. Here's a handy chart: BT - Parti-Gyle Brewing
I notice that you do partigyle brews exclusively these days. I was wondering if you could help a new comer to the practice formulate a recipe. I have the basics tenants down, I just get confused on the grain bill.
My plan is to brew a 1.100 barleywine and a 1.050 ESB from a SMaSH grain bed of maris otter. If my reckoning is correct, I need 15# of grain to get these gravities (referring to the Mosher table). My main question is: do I have to double this grain bill (to 30#) to ensure appropriate OGs? If yes, I fail to see how this is an economical method of brewing. My logic on the practice was to use only the first runnings of a 5 gallon grain bed (in this case, 15# MO) for the big beer, and then remash or sparge to get the small beer.
Using that method, I come up with on 4.7 gallons of pre boil volume for the big beer (mashing thin), so I would never get up to 5 gallons for that brew.
Any information you can give me would be greatly appreciated!
rexbanner said:Yeah, you do need just around 15# of grain to get that. Double it? I'm not sure I understand. Normally, when you brew a very big beer your efficiency will suffer, but you are not brewing anything different than a 1.060-ish beer, just splitting it. I've never noticed a problem with my gravities. The important thing is to make sure that your final volumes are correct. Also, if you happen to lose a few points on your barleywine OG, you can always add a little sugar to make up for it, or just forget about it since no one will notice the difference anyways.
I understand u say ur brewing a 1.060ish beer but just splitting it. But is the overall grain bill based on say a normal 5 gal batch, or based on a 10 gallon batch if splitting it?
Also say if it's based on a 5 gal batch and a 15lb grain bill. I usually mash in at 1.3qts/lb, so that's 4.875 gal of strike water. After absorption I figure I can run off 2.95 gal. Do I just dilute with water or how do I get the 7 gal preboil vol I need?
Phunhog said:The grain bill will be based on the total gravity points. In this case you are essentially making 7.5 gallons of a 1.060ish beer. You would need to know your efficiency to calculate how much grain you need. You mash in with your normal amount of strike water. The first runnings, or at least the majority of it, becomes your "big" beer. When you sparge you need to calculate the amount of water needed for your "small" beer. If you want 5 gallons post boil you will need around 6 gallons....but it depends on your system.
My eff is a constant 70%.
So I guess my big beer is only 2.95 gal preboil? That is unless I wish to dilute it even more with plain h20?
How would I plan on collecting 7 gal preboil for my big beer? I assume I have to increase my grain bill, but how do I calculate that?
I understand about just sparging for your small beer, and u dont have to account for grain absorption. Right?
Thanks
My eff is a constant 70%.
So I guess my big beer is only 2.95 gal preboil? That is unless I wish to dilute it even more with plain h20?
How would I plan on collecting 7 gal preboil for my big beer? I assume I have to increase my grain bill, but how do I calculate that?
I understand about just sparging for your small beer, and u dont have to account for grain absorption. Right?
Thanks
Do you normally batch sparge, Mpavlik22?
I ask because, from what you posted, it looks like you are planning to run off the first runnings with just the water you doughed in with. As far as I know, you mash in with enough water ti get your grist ratio right, then you add enough at the end of the mash to make your first runnings the volume you want them to be. Then run off untill dry, and add the sparge water.
corncob said:Do you normally batch sparge, Mpavlik22?
I ask because, from what you posted, it looks like you are planning to run off the first runnings with just the water you doughed in with. As far as I know, you mash in with enough water ti get your grist ratio right, then you add enough at the end of the mash to make your first runnings the volume you want them to be. Then run off untill dry, and add the sparge water.
corncob said:Do you normally batch sparge, Mpavlik22?
I ask because, from what you posted, it looks like you are planning to run off the first runnings with just the water you doughed in with. As far as I know, you mash in with enough water ti get your grist ratio right, then you add enough at the end of the mash to make your first runnings the volume you want them to be. Then run off untill dry, and add the sparge water.
How do you predict the color of the beers that will be produced when using this method? Or do you simply throw your grains in and go for it?
Is there any reasoning as to why you wouldn't want to mash in with the total boil volume of your big beer? I would think that this would give you the advantage of having a thinner mash, which would lead to a more fermentable wort. And since it is going to be a high gravity beer, you would want it to be highly fermentable to let the yeast do their business.
How do you predict the color of the beers that will be produced when using this method? Or do you simply throw your grains in and go for it?
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