Kegging setup purchase recommendations

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ohiobrewtus

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I've got my Sanyo, and I've researched a few options on towers and kegging kits but I'd be a fool to not get some feedback from those of you that have been kegging for quite some time.

Here are the towers that I'm looking at:

http://www.micromatic.com/draft-keg-beer/towers-pid-D4743DT.html

http://www.beveragefactory.com/draftbeer/towers/doublefaucet/D4743DT___6844.shtml

http://www.kegworks.com/product.php?productid=21754&cat=522&page=1



and here's the kegging kits that I'm looking at (the 2 keg setups):

http://www.alternativebeverage.com/cornelius_kegging_system_ball_lock/cornelius_ball_lock_system.htm
(I'd actually go with the 3 keg system from tthe above link and have an extra, but again, I'm not sure that it gives me everything that I need to connect them up and get them going)

http://stores.kegconnection.com/Categories.bok?category=Homebrew+Keg+Kits%2C+Complete+Kits%21&gclid=CNau9vbmm48CFShuIgod7VnQ1w


I know squadoosh about kegging, so I guess I'm looking for feedback on wether or not these kits include everything that I need to get up and going with two kegs. Any recommendations on spare parts, cleaning supplies, and any other items that you can think of would be greatly appreciated.
 
I bought the 3 tap tower from micromatic... The thing that the handle attaches to came bend a bit... Called them and they overnighted a stainless steel replacement (original was brass)...

I later upgraded to Perlick faucets... If you can do this with the order, I'd recommend it... If you don't use the other ones for a couple of days, you get quite the workout trying to pour from them for the first pour...
 
MAke your own for about $10.00

14" length of 3" PVC.
one toilet flange,
one PVC end cap
four three inch machine screws to fasten to top
One can of black laquer plastic spray paint
One partially used papertowel roll for insulation (beer kines run up the inside of the cardboard tube.

DripTrays3.JPG

Kegger5.JPG
 
BierMuncher said:
MAke your own for about $10.00

14" length of 3" PVC.
one toilet flange,
one PVC end cap
four three inch machine screws to fasten to top
One can of black laquer plastic spray paint
One partially used papertowel roll for insulation (beer kines run up the inside of the cardboard tube.

View attachment 3028

View attachment 3029

Very interesting. How far down from the top did you drill the holes in the PVC for the faucets? How big are the holes, and how did you secure the faucets in the holes (I'm guessing that the faucets are threaded abd there's a nut on the inside)?

What about the kegging kits, do they appear to have everything that I would need to get started?
 
ohiobrewtus said:
Very interesting. How far down from the top did you drill the holes in the PVC for the faucets? How big are the holes, and how did you secure the faucets in the holes (I'm guessing that the faucets are threaded abd there's a nut on the inside)?

What about the kegging kits, do they appear to have everything that I would need to get started?

These are the shanks I used...got em from micromatic.com for $20.00 each. Shanks are what go through the refrigerator wall, or the wall of a tower or whatever..to get your beer from the inside to the outside taps. The taps just screw on and they're a universal fit.

ElbowShank.jpg

I did a dry fit of everything before I drilled anything to make sure my largest beer glass would have clearance on those drip trays. It's a 1" hole that accomodates that shank. I used a paddle bit.

The pipe is glued into the base, but the cap is just pushed on snug so I can remove and get in there if I need.
 
I don't know if anyone knows this, but when the tower says it is air cooled, the open space inside the tower is supposed to have a large access hole to the fridge so cool air can enter the tower and cool the lines. The instructions that came with my tower, said I should cut a 2 and a half inch hole through the roof of my chest freezer, when I ordred it I thought I just needed to drill holes for the beer lines to run through, but instead I had to cut a large hole using a hole cutter.

Given that there is a large hole in the roof of my freezer, I am glad that I cheaped out and got a plastic tower, as plastic is a better insulator than metal. By having plastic I loose less cool air out of the tower.

Additionally if you are using a mini fridge, many fridges have coolant lines running through the top, and if you cut theese lines you essentially ruin your fridge. Cutting a large 2 and a half inch hole in the top will most likely hit one of the lines, so be careful.

Good luck.
 
You need:
tap handle,
tap (perlicks are the way to go)
shank- goes through mounting surface.
fitting to attach beer hose to shank- some shanks come with the fitting, most dont.
beer line
fitting to attach beer line to keg fitting
keg fitting to attch to your keg (corny kegs are eitehr pin or ball lock.
corny keg
C02 fitting for corny keg (pin or ball)
CO2 line
regulator
CO2 tank.
FDA approved grease
Shank tool
clamps to hold beer and air lines to fittings if your going with barb'd fittings.

I prefer 3/16" beer line, it will fit on a 1/4" fitting.
I prefer 1/4" CO2 line.
I am running a double regulator with a CO2 gage. I use one regulator per tap. If you dont go with a double regulator set-up you will need a spliter/divider to go from the regulator to each corny keg.

I bought my kegging equipment individually. Funny thing about kits, they dont always save you money.
You can buy a new CO2 tank if you want, however your local gas vendor will want to swap you tanks. Most do not fill tanks on site. They ship the tank off to a filling station. Find a used tank and exchange it for a full one. Call around and get quotes. Prices vary.
 
Holy moly!

Someone decide to wake this thread up on its 1 year anniversary? :D
 
Great idea Biermuncher! Can you think of any improvements you would make? You think you could easily fit another faucet?
 
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