This manifold build ok?

I wanted to get opinions on this MT manifold I built yesterday.





Some concerns I have are:

1. I used a chop saw to cut the slits, but now worry the opening of the slit may be too wide. They measure 1/8". Do you think that will let in too much crud? Maybe I should remake them with just a hacksaw blade?

2. That long span of clear tubing may get crushed under the weight of the mash. Although I am only doing 5 gallon batches.

Any thoughts?

why didn't you make the manifold drain on the other side?

chemman14 said:

why didn't you make the manifold drain on the other side?

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I was under the impression that you always have you drain holes on the underneath side like he has it

You have a large gap down the middle... you will probably undersparge there a little if you are fly sparging. If you are going to batch, doesnt really matter so much.

Newbeerguy said:

I was under the impression that you always have you drain holes on the underneath side like he has it

Click to expand...

Not the slots, the DRAIN, the part that leads to the ball valve is opposite the ball valve.

The Pol said:

Not the slots, the DRAIN, the part that leads to the ball valve is opposite the ball valve.

Click to expand...

what he said

Silly question... is that CVPC? I was under the impression that was preferred over regular PVC when using in higher temp situations...

Duckfoot said:

Silly question... is that CVPC? I was under the impression that was preferred over regular PVC when using in higher temp situations...

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No, it clearly states PVC on the tubing... good catch.

Ah, thanks for pointing out the issue with it being PVC, not CPVC. I will redo it.

So what about the 1/8" slots, anyone have an opinion on whether they are too big?

@chemman14 - Not sure how I would put the drain on the other side. The cooler drain is recessed below the floor level of the cooler. I cant think of a way to adapt the manifold down that short distance, which is why I used clear tubing from the other side.

Are you batch sparging?

Yea I would def redo it with CPVC. I did mine with CPVC but used a really small drill bit
(1/64") and drilled a billion holes. Took a little bit of time but it works like a charm. I would also suggest replacing the piece of flex tubing with a solid piece of CPVC. It will help increase your efficiency and reduce your chance of crushing the tubing during mashing.

Yep, forgot to mention i was will be doing batch sparging.

I will look into replacing the flex tubing with CPVC. I just have to figure out how to account for the recessed spigot (if you look at the picture it is about 1" below the bottom level of the cooler.

Small holes or a hacksaw are both good options... I went the hacksaw route with my copper manifold... Mainly because I don't have a drill press and that much patience... I will prolly drill my sparge arm when I make it...

I'd replace at least 3/4 of the flexible tubing with the CPVC and cut some slots in that as well. You can still use the flexible tubing for the last few inches and it will allow for your recessed drain. If you leave the long length of flexible tubing you are running the risk of knocking it loose when stirring the mash. I would also glue that section into the joint so it won't pull out if you hit it while stirring, the rest of the joints should hold together fine without the glue and allow you take it apart to clean.

I has somewhat of the same thing going on -- I've got copper going around the edge (hole inserted with a dremil disk attachment) and then a piece of flexible tubing to account for a ill-positioned exit spout.
It works well enough and I've only had one bit of trouble with it clogging.

Here is some great info on building a mash/lauter tun.

http://www.howtobrew.com/appendices/appendixD-1.html

mariojr said:

Here is some great info on building a mash/lauter tun.

http://www.howtobrew.com/appendices/appendixD-1.html

Click to expand...

A+ on How to brew. Please read the section on how to build a "Balanced" manifold, you will be happy you did.

I have the same recessed outlet in my manifold. I used 2 22 degree factory fittings (CPVC) that I found @ Home Depot to make a 1" offset down to the valve.