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Brewbien

Brewbien

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Fellow electric brewers and electricity nerds, I need help wiring up my e-BIAB system. I have all of the parts and I am having a little trouble figuring out how to wire everything. (I don't want to electrocute myself, or my friends.) Basically, I want to turn the system off with a key switch, a button for the pid and the pump, a e-stop and a 2-way switch for the alarm on/off. Any help that can be provided is much appreciated. Pictures coming soon, probably tonight. Here is a list of everything I currently have:

1 - Auber PID/Timer model#2451
3 - Push Button 2-way switches
1 - Emergency Stop locking push button with NC Contact
1 - Extra No contact for E-Stop
1 - 2-Way Switch with 1 NO Contact. For buzzer.
1 - Key toggle Switch for panel on/off
2 - 40a Contactors w/ 110v Coils, 1 for element, and 1 for control panel power (not sure if I techinically need 2, enclosure is pretty tight)
1 - 40a Solid State Relays for PID control of elements, includes heatsink
1 - 25a 2 pole DIN Rail Breaker
1 - 16a 1 pole DIN Rail Breaker
10 - Din Rail Terminal Blocks for wire from 6-24 awg
1 - L14-30 inlet for power
1 - L6-30 outlet for element power
1 - standard outlet for pump power
 
Before you commit to the Auber 2451, you may want to read this. https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f170/auber-pid-swa-2451-experience-301167/

I don't draw wiring diagrams, but P-J has posted many on here, and some would be fairly close to what you are trying to do. Also, if you haven't already, look at www.theelectricbrewery.com. If you understand that, you should be able to plan your wiring based upon the principles there. Post your plan back on here so some can check it and confirm.

I do like the idea of using a contactor to control the panel's main power. If you want, you could skip the e-stop button and just turn your key switch off. Your choice.

Also, if you have a 30a feed into the panel, you do not really need the DIN rail breakers. Alternatively, you could just put fuses in to protect your lower current wiring. Kal (theelectricbrewery.com) uses one 7a inline fuse to run the 120v components. Some use smaller fuses to protect the PID.

Lastly, what are your plans for a GFCI?
 
jeffmeh said:
Before you commit to the Auber 2451, you may want to read this. https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f170/auber-pid-swa-2451-experience-301167/

I've already bought everything on the list and I want to get it up and running as soon as possible so I can get brewing again. So I'm kind of already committed :(

I don't draw wiring diagrams, but P-J has posted many on here, and some would be fairly close to what you are trying to do. Also, if you haven't already, look at www.theelectricbrewery.com. If you understand that, you should be able to plan your wiring based upon the principles there. Post your plan back on here so some can check it and confirm.

Will do.

I do like the idea of using a contactor to control the panel's main power. If you want, you could skip the e-stop button and just turn your key switch off. Your choice.

What are the advantages/disadvantages of each?

Also, if you have a 30a feed into the panel, you do not really need the DIN rail breakers. Alternatively, you could just put fuses in to protect your lower current wiring. Kal (theelectricbrewery.com) uses one 7a inline fuse to run the 120v components. Some use smaller fuses to protect the PID.

Are they just overboard? I already have them so will they work what what I'm looking to do?

Lastly, what are your plans for a GFCI?
Click to expand...

I have a 30a dryer plug (L14-30) running from my breaker box in my basement.


Thanks for your help~!
 
Brewbien,
In regards to the GFCI the Jeff asked about, do you have a GFCI breaker in the panel? If not, you will either need to pop one in / replace what you have in there, install a spa panel, or get a cable with one inline.

Kevin
 
Don't worry about the 2451. If you find the timer useful that's great. If not, there are definite advantages to a timer that you can take with you if you walk away, such as a smart phone, or a cheap kitchen timer.

Regarding the e-stop button (I assume you would be wiring it between your key switch and the main power contactor), the advantage is that you can to hit the button rather than just turn off your key switch. I have no doubt that in a real emergency you could hit the button faster, but in practical terms I don't think it matters for this application. The disadvantage is that you could inadvertently hit the e-stop, but again, no big deal. Either solution would work.

You can use the 25a DIN breaker if you want, but you don't really need it if your bringing 10/4 into the panel off a 30a breaker. If you have a 50a breaker, then it would be valuable as it would allow you to use 10awg wire rather than 6awg, which would save you money and would be easier to work with. After the 16a breaker, you could drop down to 12awg (or maybe 14awg) for your 120v circuits, but you still may want to use a 1 amp fuse before the PID to protect it.

You definitely want a GFCI, either through a GFCI breaker, or a GFCI spa panel after a non-GFCI breaker.
 
Thanks. I had the outlet installed during some rehab I had done to my house. I will check to see if it is on a GFCI breaker when I get home because it wouldn't be the first thing my contractor has done wrong.
 
Brewbien said:
Thanks. I had the outlet installed during some rehab I had done to my house. I will check to see if it is on a GFCI breaker when I get home because it wouldn't be the first thing my contractor has done wrong.
Click to expand...

My bet is that he put in a regular breaker, since you do not ask him specifically for a GFCI one. The GFCI breakers are absurdly expensive. More than the spa panel, that has a GFCI breaker. Go figure.
 
jeffmeh said:
Don't worry about the 2451. If you find the timer useful that's great. If not, there are definite advantages to a timer that you can take with you if you walk away, such as a smart phone, or a cheap kitchen timer.

Regarding the e-stop button (I assume you would be wiring it between your key switch and the main power contactor), the advantage is that you can to hit the button rather than just turn off your key switch. I have no doubt that in a real emergency you could hit the button faster, but in practical terms I don't think it matters for this application. The disadvantage is that you could inadvertently hit the e-stop, but again, no big deal. Either solution would work.

You can use the 25a DIN breaker if you want, but you don't really need it if your bringing 10/4 into the panel off a 30a breaker. If you have a 50a breaker, then it would be valuable as it would allow you to use 10awg wire rather than 6awg, which would save you money and would be easier to work with. After the 16a breaker, you could drop down to 12awg (or maybe 14awg) for your 120v circuits, but you still may want to use a 1 amp fuse before the PID to protect it.

You definitely want a GFCI, either through a GFCI breaker, or a GFCI spa panel after a non-GFCI breaker.
Click to expand...

If I don't use an E-stop, do I still need 2 contactors? If not, that makes it an easy decision.
 
Brewbien said:
If I don't use an E-stop, do I still need 2 contactors? If not, that makes it an easy decision.
Click to expand...

I would go with two, one to switch all the power in the panel, and one to be able to switch the element off regardless of what signals the PID is sending.
 
For my eBIAB panel I use a single contactor to enable/disable 220v power to to the element via a 3-way switch, ON, OFF, or Auto (PID) mode.

Lower power 120v components are fused.

I used a single estop as the on/off switch and to disable all power including the contactor.

It is your panel so design it with as many or as few switches as you want.
 

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