Rewiring my Electrical/Control pannel

So I decided to redo my control pannel, Why? Probably cause I always have to upgrade my design for some reason... but I want to be able to unplug my Keggles from the control pannel of I ever need to. Each one runs a 5500w 220v element. Question is do I need a certain type of outlet/plug to handle them? Im not expert on this by far, but im guessing they need to be rated at a certain amperage.

Just use any plug rated for 30+ amps at 240v, and avoid hot prongs. Due to the size of traditional receptacles and trying to fit them on an element enclosure, a lot of people seem to do the Neutrik / Speakon connectors.

Here's a quick build that pulled up for reference: https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?p=6810658


Edit: just realized after I posted that you simply want to unplug your elements from the control panel, not cord from the kettle. That makes it easy. Back to what I said, any rated outlet. Have the cord be male and panel be female. If you want bling look up the recessed leviton connectors everyone uses.

So the Neutrik will be able to hold the load ? Also know any good connectors to use like them for the thermostats? Would be helpfull to be able to unplug them also. I was justing thinking plain speaker terminal for them but not sure if it would work or not.

reese9885 said:

So the Neutrik will be able to hold the load ? Also know any good connectors to use like them for the thermostats? Would be helpfull to be able to unplug them also. I was justing thinking plain speaker terminal for them but not sure if it would work or not.

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Make sure you get the black ones which are rated at 32A.

Dont use the small ones for a 5500W element they are only rated for 20A.

reese9885 said:

So the Neutrik will be able to hold the load ? Also know any good connectors to use like them for the thermostats? Would be helpfull to be able to unplug them also. I was justing thinking plain speaker terminal for them but not sure if it would work or not.

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By thermostat do you mean the RTDs, or do you have something else? If RTDs, look up XLR connectors.

neutrik work fine (i bought them too) but getting the wire into it took some muscle

this'll give you an idea of how tight it is in there

iijakii said:

By thermostat do you mean the RTDs, or do you have something else? If RTDs, look up XLR connectors.

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Here is what I bought for connecting temp, level, and flow sensors:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/161157582891

pablosbrewing said:

Here is what I bought for connecting temp, level, and flow sensors:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/161157582891

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Thats the same ones I used for my RTD sensors. They work great, and the price was right.

Wish I had found those before using the chassis mount XLR's with the square flange and four dinky screws!

To disconnect the heating elements from the panel, I went with the Levitron 30A twist lock plugs. They seem to be pretty well built. The only complaint is that a standard size hole saw is a bit big for them and I had to shift them a bit to get 3 screws in there to hold them in place.

anyone know where ya can get some new switches, was looking at 800t-h2 allen bradly switches but they get expensive, and basic toggle switches would work but would like something a little bigger.

reese9885 said:

anyone know where ya can get some new switches, was looking at 800t-h2 allen bradly switches but they get expensive, and basic toggle switches would work but would like something a little bigger.

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I bought all mine on ebay a year and a half ago and 50+ brews later no issues... links for them are in my signature build thread.
The exact same switches as sold by ebrew and auberins can be purchased for as little at $3 shipped a piece there.. if you need them right away your going to pay about twice the price from US sellers basically as a "stocking fee" but even $6 is better than Allen Bradley switches.

augiedoggy said:

I bought all mine on ebay a year and a half ago and 50+ brews later no issues... links for them are in my signature build thread.
The exact same switches as sold by ebrew and auberins can be purchased for as little at $3 shipped a piece there.. if you need them right away your going to pay about twice the price from US sellers basically as a "stocking fee" but even $6 is better than Allen Bradley switches.

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I'm with Augie - I just bought these to switch the element contactors:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/171751515781

and these to switch the pumps:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/181434518333

Rated 10A @ 600V - the contactor current draw is negligible and Chuggers only about 2A. I like the idea of the lighted switch - eliminates the need for separate indicator lights. I'm trying to put together a compact three element build, so panel space is at a premium.

Can't be in a hurry tho' - slow boat from China....

Yeah I went the ebay route from china... guess ill get them in a month lol

Rivenin said:

this'll give you an idea of how tight it is in there

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Hey Rivenin did you just solder the wires to that XLR?

Pretty sure the xlr connectors are screw terminal

That's a neutrik power connector, not an XLR. But the XLR's need to be soldered. Not sure about those Neutriks.