American Pale Ale Three Floyds Zombie Dust Clone

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mrgrimm101 said:
It looks like it calls for 3 oz to be dry hopped so maybe I'll do 2 oz in the primary and then 1 in the secondary. anyone have any thoughts about that?
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Don't do that. If you are going to transfer to a secondary then do all of the dry hopping in there. I would dry hop this for around 1 week total.

I like using secondaries when bottling since it gives me another chance to leave behind some trub and my beer ends up clearer because of it. Also, it frees up my primary so I can brew more beer!
 
Komodo said:
There technically is no secondary fermentation. There is just, fermentation. After the initial ferment is done (maybe 4-7 days), many like to transfer to another vessel and off of the yeast cake. I guess this is to prevent off flavors from dead yeast (autolysis) but this is not an issue for the home brewer. This may be an issue for LARGE scale brewers using huge conical tanks where the pressure at the bottom of the cone is enough to kill yeasts.

For the home brewer, leaving a beer on the initial yeast cake isn't an issue and considering the potential for introduction of contaminants, is avoided by many. ie. don't mess with it if you don't have to. Fermentation will continue at this point, just slower. One problem with transferring to a new container (secondary) is that you could potentially stop the ferment and not reach the final gravity you were shooting for. If you had just left it, it may have continued further.

I'm not an avid dry hopper, but it is usually done just after the bulk of the ferment is done.
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Awesome thanks so much for clarifying.
 
BrewFry22 said:
I like using secondaries when bottling since it gives me another chance to leave behind some trub and my beer ends up clearer because of it. Also, it frees up my primary so I can brew more beer!
Click to expand...

Both totally valid points. I switched to buckets and now have more fermenters than I know what to do with.

BTW-I'm using S-04 for this one and one of the things I hope it achieves is a clearer beer with it's reputed compact cake.
 
skeezerpleezer said:
Never skipped the dryhop, and it is worth it.

Do you plan to add apricots?

I like to dryhop saisons and some sours. I would dryhop Belgian IPAs and pales if I ever made them.
Click to expand...

I'm going to forget the Motueka, and dry hop with either Citra, Simcoe, or Mosaic or a mix of these. I have no experience with these other than the Citra used in the boil, my Belgians use all Tett and Saaz. I'm thinking 4-5oz total, all mixed up and split between my buckets 5G, 4G and 4G. (In the end I had less than I thought.)

Any votes on which hop or which mix of those? I literally don't care, and I'll have to drink it unless anyone wants to come help. :mug:
 
Just when I thought my day couldn't be any worse...work in IT and experienced a major outage...all I wanted to do was get home, eat and have an ice cold home brew. The SWMBO is out of town on business so the house is all mine.

I walked in the house and was smacked in the face with mango and grapefruit and this...
ImageUploadedByHome Brew1396398382.187408.jpg

Damn blowout. Don't ask what the t-shirt looked like. Total mess and It was a good thing SHE wasn't home! Oh well guess I'll still have that home brew and clean up the mess. Hopefully it will still turn out okay.



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Crap. At least you had it in something! I had one explode in a small room one time that cover walls, floor and ceiling.
 
I brewed this one last Saturday and the fermentation took off like a rocket for the first three days. Luckily i've got eight gallons in a fifteen gallon vessel with a tube. It would have blown an air lock right out.
 
Wow this recipe sounds delicious. I'm thinking about this for a future brew but I have a question for those who have done the extract/PM version.

Are you guys mashing and the sparging the extra grains with the appropriate amount of water and then adding to your boil water? Or are you doing a controlled steep in the full 3 gallons of water?
 
I use Deathbrewers method for PM and find it works well for me. I AM also able to do full boils. For this recipe I followed it almost to the step the only difference is I added 3# DME at start and the last 3# with 15 min left in boil.

Here is the link to Deathbrewers topic on PM.

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showpost.php?p=787489



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ljames said:
Just when I thought my day couldn't be any worse...work in IT and experienced a major outage...all I wanted to do was get home, eat and have an ice cold home brew. The SWMBO is out of town on business so the house is all mine.

I walked in the house and was smacked in the face with mango and grapefruit and this...


Damn blowout. Don't ask what the t-shirt looked like. Total mess and It was a good thing SHE wasn't home! Oh well guess I'll still have that home brew and clean up the mess. Hopefully it will still turn out okay.
Click to expand...
I just checked mine and I barely have any kraussen. I used a blow off just in case. I don't understand why some people have explosive fermentations while I almost never do. I pitched what I thought was a healthy pitch. I was a yeast cake that was about 2 weeks old, but I still made a starter. I estimated low cell density for the yeast cake, so I assume I over pitched. I have mine in a water bath like yours and it's at 66F.
 
mtnagel said:
I just checked mine and I barely have any kraussen. I used a blow off just in case. I don't understand why some people have explosive fermentations while I almost never do. I pitched what I thought was a healthy pitch. I was a yeast cake that was about 2 weeks old, but I still made a starter. I estimated low cell density for the yeast cake, so I assume I over pitched. I have mine in a water bath like yours and it's at 66F.
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I used a single packet of S-04 and I didn't rehydrate. My temp was about 65-67 pre blowout but when I checked it after the blowout it was in the neighborhood of 70-72. I suspect the slight rise in temp may have "woke up" the yeasties but I'm not certain. I switched to a blowoff tube because about 4' above the fermenter is a wire shelf and when it blew out my airlock shattered upon impact. I also emptied and added fresh cool water which slowly lowered the temp back to where I wanted. Definitely looking into fermentation chamber this summer!


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Crazy that it had so much force to break the airlock!

Not sure where Reston is, but it's still cold enough here that I have to heat my water to get it up to 66F! It's sitting on the floor of my ~60F basement. I use an aquarium heater. I hadn't checked during fermentation if the temps were matching the bath, but I just did on this batch and the temp was high by 1F (bath at 65F and wort at 66F) so I feel pretty good about my super cheap method keeping the fermentation temps in check.
 
Reston is in N. VA about 25 miles west of DC. Temps here just started creeping into the 60's finally after having snow this past weekend. I have no problem with warm water. My tap spits out hot water at 120+F, can't put your hand in it, for too long anyway. :) Brewing ales in these temps are ok. But I don't think my swamp cooler will work at maintaining the temps I need for the lagers I want to brew, hence my desire for a ferm chamber.


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Exactly, I don't want to be dealing with that in the summer. I live on the top floor of my complex and couldn't be bothered with ice packs and the like. The chamber is on my b-day list...hope the SWMBO is on board.


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Fermentation chamber is the best investment I made for lagers. I don't notice much difference in my ales. My basement stays a consistent 60degrees and maybe tops at 68 in the summer. I plan my brews accordingly.

Just did my daily sniff of the airlock. SWMBO had a nose full, and she even said that this smells heavenly. No joke, her words. She hates the smell of fermentation and hops. But this is special. I can't wait to dry hop it this weekend.
 
My first PM!

Recipe calls for 2.5 lbs of grains. How much water to start with, 3 quart?

Also, should I add all 6lb. of dry after sparging or split it, 3lb after sparging and 3lb. last 15 minutes of boil?
 
proink said:
My first PM!

Recipe calls for 2.5 lbs of grains. How much water to start with, 3 quart?

Also, should I add all 6lb. of dry after sparging or split it, 3lb after sparging and 3lb. last 15 minutes of boil?
Click to expand...


Sounds about right regarding the water. I think the DME split is a matter of choice honestly. I'm pretty sure it will affect mostly color and not flavor. Someone with more brew experience may chime in if I'm incorrect.



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ljames said:
Sounds about right regarding the water. I think the DME split is a matter of choice honestly. I'm pretty sure it will affect mostly color and not flavor. Someone with more brew experience may chime in if I'm incorrect.



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Click to expand...


And it will affect hop utilization
 
Is 7-10 day primary, 7 day dry hop and 3 week carb in bottles still the norm?


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I was planning on 10 days in primary, 14 days in secondary (last 10 days dry hop). Then keg.
Isn't this kinda what the recipe calls for?
I want this to turn out awesome, so I want to do everything like the original recipe calls for. But, I am open for suggestions if anyone knows anything better to make this taste like ZD! I've only had it a few times (since I live in PA), but it's one of the best beers I've ever had!!
 
The AG recipe's dry hop was lowered to 5-7 days. New thinking is that is long enough. Find the Kimmach video where he says 4 days. Also most believe secondary isn't necessary for a beer like this. Just dry hop in the primary. And if you have a healthy fermentation, it should be done in 7-14 days. For hoppy beers you want to drink them as soon as possible, so the quicker you package the quicker you can drink it.
 
brewed up version 3.0 today, love this recipe! missed my starting gravity by a bit, came in at 1.062 instead of 1.068. shouldn't be too noticeable. this has been a crowd favorite the last 2 batches!
 
mtnagel said:
The AG recipe's dry hop was lowered to 5-7 days. New thinking is that is long enough. Find the Kimmach video where he says 4 days. Also most believe secondary isn't necessary for a beer like this. Just dry hop in the primary. And if you have a healthy fermentation, it should be done in 7-14 days. For hoppy beers you want to drink them as soon as possible, so the quicker you package the quicker you can drink it.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the update, much appreciated!!
 
Any recommendations on kegging? What psi' s to start, how many days? What psi to keep at for drinking?
 
So please let me know what you all think. This is what I decided to order since Labelpeelers does not have carafoam or melanoidin malt.

Briess Pale Ale 2 Row malt (3.5L or 1.8L??? They have both)
Briess Munich Malt 10L
Briess Carapils Malt - instead of carafoam
Briess Caramel/Crystal 60L
Dingemans Aromatic Malt 15L - instead of melanoidin 20 srm
Safale S-04 yeast
Citra Hop Pellets

Does this sound ok? I used brewtoad's lovibond to srm converter to make sure the colors still were on track.
 
mister704 said:
So please let me know what you all think. This is what I decided to order since Labelpeelers does not have carafoam or melanoidin malt.

Briess Pale Ale 2 Row malt (3.5L or 1.8L??? They have both)
Briess Munich Malt 10L
Briess Carapils Malt - instead of carafoam
Briess Caramel/Crystal 60L
Dingemans Aromatic Malt 15L - instead of melanoidin 20 srm
Safale S-04 yeast
Citra Hop Pellets

Does this sound ok? I used brewtoad's lovibond to srm converter to make sure the colors still were on track.
Click to expand...

I have made those same substitutions before. Everything came out fine. Carapils and Carafoam are the same thing, Carafoam is Weyermanns Carapils is Briess
 
Carapils is not the same as carafoam. Carafoam is a true crystal malt, adding sweetness as well as the carapils dextrins. You could call it Crystal 2L. This is a pretty noticeable change. If you have some C10, I'd sub the carafom, 50:50 for carapils & C10.

Aromatic vs. Melanoidin are also different. Melanoidin gives richer malty flavor. But the change won't kill the beer.

I have a spinoff version going now using the same grain bill but with some simcoe at 60, and a bunch of simcoe, citra, Chinook at flameout.
 
Weezy said:
Carapils is not the same as carafoam. Carafoam is a true crystal malt, adding sweetness as well as the carapils dextrins. You could call it Crystal 2L. This is a pretty noticeable change. If you have some C10, I'd sub the carafom, 50:50 for carapils & C10.



Aromatic vs. Melanoidin are also different. Melanoidin gives richer malty flavor. But the change won't kill the beer.



I have a ZD clone going now but with some simcoe at 60, and a bunch of simcoe, citra, Chinook at flameout.
Click to expand...


Do you have a source for FFF using Simcoe and chinook at flameout? I don't get those flavors in ZD.
 
Nope. Sorry to be confusing. i edited that last post. I'm just using your grain bill. The hop schedule is my concoction. I brew with different hops everytime...for the fun of it.
 
I am looking at brewing to tomorrow. I have a few questions for the partial mash/extract version of this. I plan on doing a full boil which should allow me to remove the 60 min hop addition.
My concerns/thoughts are with the FWH and the boil time.
FWH:
If I do a FWH with this method I would think that the best way of mimicking a true AG FWH would be to partial mash and rinse grain, add to the remaining boil volume water that is preheated to 160ish then add the FWH to the full boil volume and let it heat up to a boil. Does this sound legit?
Boil time:
With the FWH the longest hop boil is 15 min addition. Does this mean you only boil for 15 min? Or do you still boil 60 and just add hops at 15,10,5 and 1?

Any input would be appreciated.
 
bcunning82 said:
I am looking at brewing to tomorrow. I have a few questions for the partial mash/extract version of this. I plan on doing a full boil which should allow me to remove the 60 min hop addition.

My concerns/thoughts are with the FWH and the boil time.

FWH:

If I do a FWH with this method I would think that the best way of mimicking a true AG FWH would be to partial mash and rinse grain, add to the remaining boil volume water that is preheated to 160ish then add the FWH to the full boil volume and let it heat up to a boil. Does this sound legit?

Boil time:

With the FWH the longest hop boil is 15 min addition. Does this mean you only boil for 15 min? Or do you still boil 60 and just add hops at 15,10,5 and 1?



Any input would be appreciated.
Click to expand...


Boil 60 mins, follow recipes hop schedule and you'll be fine.


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