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- Feb 29, 2016
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From what Tim says in the video run it full bore till boil is achieved then back off to avoid crazy boil off rates.
Right but I'm all about speed when brewing. Would it hurt to crank to 100% without stirring?
Makes me more wishing I could order mine today. By the time I am ready they will be on version 4.0
rhlvegas,
did you find any info on beersmith equipment profiles for the CBS 20g setup?
I just pulled the trigger and bought their new nano brewer home system. I looked at other systems for months and I've brewed on the GF and Blichmann systems at work (perks of working at a homebrew store). I can't wait for it to come in and i'll be posting pics as soon as I can.
I stumbled on this thread while window shopping electric systems. I'm interested in finding something that will let me continue to do my normal AG 5 gal batches, while expanding to 10 gal once in a while... with the better temperature control and efficiency of electric. The one-vessel simplicity of the CBS rig is pretty appealing. Brew Boss looks similar. Are there any other rigs I should look at?
I actually made a system similar to this years ago before it even came out and I can answer a few questions,
1. 0.45 mill gap is a feeler gage gap to adjust your mill to crush your grain, this is important to prevent a stuck recirculation
2. yes a good rest is important, nothing worse than brewing with glue, you can also use rice hulls and throttle way back to 1/4 open for 20 minutes
3. 50% is what i have always used without rice hulls 75% with
Thanks for the fast response Ozarks, can you please elaborate on 1? I currently have a mm feeler gauge for my mill, and my mill is currently set to 1mm or 0.039". What is the measurement in mm for a 0.45 mill gap?
crushing too fine, leading to a "stuck recirculating BIAB" and the element became partially out of the wort while heating.How did you scorch your element? I thought you could fire it up to 100% to boil wort without a care... low power density or whatever.
For those who do end up scorching their element while learning the system (like me), I found that scrubbing it with 130F PBW didn't clean it, soaking in 70F PBW for a week didn't do it, but about 20 minutes! of soak/scrub with Oxalic Acid and a scotchbrite pad got it looking fairly good again. That's liquid barkeep's friend, which recommends no more than 1 minute of soak/contact time for stainless steel cleaning.
I'm hoping they only put that warning there for low grade stainless, and that the high quality SS 304, 316, or incoloy elements can take it....
Looking into getting a solid sided basket made from Colorado Brewing Systems and I have a couple of questions for everyone:
1. What do you guys mill your grains at? According to their website: "Although our systems utilize a single vessel design, this is not a Brew in a bag process. Due to our constant recirculation, it is recommended that you do not mill your grains finer than an 0.45 mill gap setting." I have no idea what 0.45 mill gap setting, is that 0.45mm, 0.045", or some other measurement I am unaware of.
<Hommel>
I used 0.039 and have never had an issue on my CBS and I normally see around 70% efficiency.
</Hommel>
2. In addition the same website states: When brewing with Oats, unmalted barley, wheat or other undermodified grains it is important to do a Beta-glucan rest between 104 and 120 degrees for approximately 20 minutes to break down the enzymes. Failure to rest at this temperature will cause the undermodified grains to become gummy and may lead to a clogged screen. Do you guys do a Beta-glucan rest? If so do you find that you have to do a Beta-glucan rest all the time only or only on beers that might be "gummy"?
<Hommel> I've never had a "gummy mash" and I have done hefeweizens at 50% wheat. then again, i'm normally in the 1.5 - 2.0 qt / lb for thickness so since my mash is on the thinner side may be why i'm not seeing any issues. I don't see how the CBS setup would be any different than any other as far as stuck mashes are concerned. if you are 1.25 with 50% wheat you should use rice hulls no matter what type of system you are running
</Hommel>
3. What do you guys find is the correct throttle of the pump so that you are not exposing the element but still getting a good recirculation? 1/2? 1/3? 1/4?
So this might be a silly question, but I was cleaning this morning and my element turned on and heated up no problem I go to mash and the element wouldn't come on. I unplugged it to check connections but nothing was loose. Any suggestions?
why do you want solid sides?
So. This happened. Apparently the SSR melted. Yeah when we opened the panel, the bits that had melted fell out. Tim was great and they are going to replace the panel. I'm sending it out tomorrow.
So. This happened. Apparently the SSR melted. Yeah when we opened the panel, the bits that had melted fell out. Tim was great and they are going to replace the panel. I'm sending it out tomorrow.
I've finally made up my mind and am going to be ordering this system in the next few days. I'm just confused on what I need in order to get electric hooked up to it, hopefully someone can help. I just had a new house built and had the builder put in a 240 outlet in the 3rd bay of my garage. The only problem is it's not a gfci outlet. My thought was I could buy a cord with inline gfci like this:
http://www.cableorganizer.com/trc/gfci-extension-cords.html
However my outlet is a 4 prong outlet and I can't tell if this one is? Is the cord that the systems comes with a 3 or 4 prong cord. Do they make adaptors to covert from 3 to 4? Thanks in advance for any help you guys can provide.
Lee?! is that you?!
It's Noah!
I just pulled the trigger and bought their new nano brewer home system. I looked at other systems for months and I've brewed on the GF and Blichmann systems at work (perks of working at a homebrew store). I can't wait for it to come in and i'll be posting pics as soon as I can.
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