My wooden paddle is splintering

Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum

Help Support Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
The wood spoon is for looks and a place for bacteria germs to live in. They are hard to get rid off unlike stainless steel. I know boiling can kill em. but I like being safe than sorry. ya know?
 
it`s a mash tun paddle, lightly sand the whiskers off & oil it with food grade tung oil. :)
 
it`s a mash tun paddle, lightly sand the whiskers off & oil it with food grade tung oil. :)

This- I don't really understand any sanitation concerns with a mash tun paddle. You're on the hot side, so don't worry about it. I have a cheap plastic paddle I bought when I started AG, and it's getting pretty stained & somewhat beat up. I use, rinse, use again. It'll break some time, and I may get another one....my biggest concern about a paddle is that it doesn't damage the inside of my cooler conversion MLT.
 
rico567 said:
This- I don't really understand any sanitation concerns with a mash tun paddle. You're on the hot side, so don't worry about it. I have a cheap plastic paddle I bought when I started AG, and it's getting pretty stained & somewhat beat up. I use, rinse, use again. It'll break some time, and I may get another one....my biggest concern about a paddle is that it doesn't damage the inside of my cooler conversion MLT.

I go bling and stainless steel with just about everything, but this is why I just don't understand people who dish out big money to make their hot side connections all tri-clover. Maybe start with it at the exit of your boil kettle, but before then???
 
BOBrob said:
it`s a mash tun paddle, lightly sand the whiskers off & oil it with food grade tung oil. :)

That is what I was thinking. I just didn't like how it did it after only one use but it was only $14.
 
Not sure about Tung Oil.. It is great for applying a French finish to wood but takes a lot of rubbing to build up the heat. I would use cutting block finish.. which in nothing more than food grade mineral oil. Cheap.. easy to use.. no taste.. it works. JMHO
 
Not sure about Tung Oil.. It is great for applying a French finish to wood but takes a lot of rubbing to build up the heat. I would use cutting block finish.. which in nothing more than food grade mineral oil. Cheap.. easy to use.. no taste.. it works. JMHO

You are correct; butcher block finish is mostly "tung oil" . I use the "watco" brand I can get around here.Cheers:)
 
This- I don't really understand any sanitation concerns with a mash tun paddle. You're on the hot side, so don't worry about it. I have a cheap plastic paddle I bought when I started AG, and it's getting pretty stained & somewhat beat up. I use, rinse, use again. It'll break some time, and I may get another one....my biggest concern about a paddle is that it doesn't damage the inside of my cooler conversion MLT.

I made mine from a hard maple board off the pile. It too is stained & beat up. The oil will just help with the whiskers. Sand & oiled, but it will never be pretty again. Cheers:D
 
Sorry to disagree with you.. Butcher Block Finish is NOT "Tung Oil". TO is one of the main ingredients in a varnish.. it has taste/odor/etc. But it is safe to use.. and it dries slowly.. you it may not be ready to use the next time you want to brew.

I suggest you Google "Butcher Block Oil.. you'll see one of the first hits as "butcher block oil vs mineral oil".. They are the same. Then Google "Tung Oil" You'll find they are very different. Also Wikipedia has a good overview of TO.
 
Sorry to disagree with you.. Butcher Block Finish is NOT "Tung Oil". TO is one of the main ingredients in a varnish.. it has taste/odor/etc. But it is safe to use.. and it dries slowly.. you it may not be ready to use the next time you want to brew.

I suggest you Google "Butcher Block Oil.. you'll see one of the first hits as "butcher block oil vs mineral oil".. They are the same. Then Google "Tung Oil" You'll find they are very different. Also Wikipedia has a good overview of TO.

DO NOT BE SORRY!!! I took your suggestion & looked around. The "lumberjocks.com/topic/1274" does explain alot that I was not aware of about watco butcher block oil. I was told it was safe & the thing to use rather than vegetable oil when I purchased it. I was also told because it was made with tung oil it was safe for food grade surfaces. Tung oil made from the nut of the tung tree is safe and a water tight seal; but it seems the manufacturers have changed processes to make tung oil finishes that are vanish and thinners. I also looked up the MSDA for watco butcher block finish & was suprise to find it can even be sold under that description. Do not take my advice on the use of watco butcher block oil!!! It is not safe as a food grade application, it does contain tung oil, but not the good tung (nut) oil. Cheers:eek:
 

Latest posts

Back
Top