Ok great! If I just leave it in that basic temp will it be ok? We're leaving Wed-Sat for the holiday, and my intention was to just leave it in the basement.
American Pale Ale Three Floyds Zombie Dust Clone
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Ok great! If I just leave it in that basic temp will it be ok? We're leaving Wed-Sat for the holiday, and my intention was to just leave it in the basement.
Yep, active fermentation will bring the temp up a bit, but hopefully it won't get too warm. I think that temp is about perfect for this recipe. When you get back you might want to rouse the yeast some (just give the fermenter a bit of a swirl to get the yeast up off the bottom) since 1968 is such a good flocculator. You could also bring it up to your 70f area after the fermentation has slowed down, but I'd definitely suggest keeping it cool for at least the first several days.
Excellent. Thanks so much! Can't wait to have this one right around Christmas!
Now the only question is should I dry hop it next week in the primary, or move it to a secondary.
Only time i use a secondary is if I need to free up a primary. I say dry hop in primary.
f_stepanski
Member
Safale 05 and 04 fermentation range is (53.6-77°F) so you are well in there for those strains.. May take longer at lower temps but you should be good. I would not go up to 70 as flavor profile may change at upper end.....
I used Wyeast 1968....I checked last night and we had activity in the airlock. Also the Fermometer strip was up and 62-64. Ambient holding steady at 62
MMJfan
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I second this. I never use secondary. Just get a hop sock and throw it in to your primary. I actually use marbles to weigh down the hop sock and then I tie it to the handle of my fermenting bucket with fishing string and it works perfectly...
Clonefan94
Senior Member
So, had some friends over on Saturday night, for the official tapping of this. One of them brought a six pack of actual Zombie Dust so we could do a side by side. It's really, really close. color was spot on, hop character and nose was spot on as well. Only thing a little off, was mine was a tad sweeter and not quite as dry on the finish. All my numbers hit pretty good, except my OG was a little higher than the recipe called for and it was still probably a hair undercarbed. I'm wondering if that was the difference.
I second this. I never use secondary. Just get a hop sock and throw it in to your primary. I actually use marbles to weigh down the hop sock and then I tie it to the handle of my fermenting bucket with fishing string and it works perfectly...
I don't even do that. I just dump the hops in, they float at the top mostly, but then sink to the bottom when i cold crash. Siphon off the beer from the top.
Amadeo38
Well-Known Member
Same happened to me. My OG was around 1.073, I just kegged tonight and it's a bit undercarbed and sweet, so I'm just going to let it sit on the co2 overnight in case I didn't burst carb it long enough and that's the issue. It's delicious though!
I second this. I never use secondary. Just get a hop sock and throw it in to your primary. I actually use marbles to weigh down the hop sock and then I tie it to the handle of my fermenting bucket with fishing string and it works perfectly...
Where do you get your hop socks from and how much are they? Also, can they be reused, or are they one and done?
jspain3
Well-Known Member
I use 1 gallon paint strainer bags for dry hopping. They're pretty inexpensive and you can buy in packs of two or five from your local home-improvement store. I generally use fishing wire to suspend it in the primary and tape the line to the outside of the bucket so the lid can go back on.
atimmerman88
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Hittin this again over Thanksgiving break....
Using Columbus for bittering so I can get buy with 8oz for the rest!
This is a gem recipe
Using Columbus for bittering so I can get buy with 8oz for the rest!
This is a gem recipe
Any reason they are better than muslin bags?
OP
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skeezerpleezer
Well-Known Member
Cheap, easy to get, easy to wash, etc. never used muslin though, so not sure they are any better
MMJfan
Well-Known Member
I get most of my brewing supplies online (Adventures In Homebrewing) which is where I get my hop socks. They're pretty cheap and I usually buy about 20 or so at a time.
I've also used the paint strainer bags when I'm in a pinch because, like jspain said, they're also cheap and easy to get as any box home improvement store has them...
atimmerman88
Well-Known Member
Hit it fresh. You have already dry hopped plenty long enough by many's standards.
By the time it's carbed up in the keg and clears up you'll be happy you did.
Mine is almost 7 days old, I'll give it 3 days on the dry hops and toss it on gas.
RodrigoEick
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I've been using the Weyermann with success. You would want the type 1 since this recipe already have lots of crystal 60
I brewed this 11/29, dry hopped 12/5. I can either bottle this saturday (12/11) or when I get back from vaca 12/18. I'd like to get it done this saturday, but if I can't squeeze it it, will it affect my beer?
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skeezerpleezer
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Do you have a way to cold crash it while you are gone? If so, that's what I would do.
Seems like a long time to dry hop, from what I've read. I bottled mine after 6 days dry hop.
I can cold crash, and was going to start tomorrow night with the hope I have time to bottle saturday. But if I don't get to it, I will leave it at cc temps while I am gone! Thanks for the advice!
Curious....I only fermented this for 7 days....hit FG #s spot on.....then dry hopped for 6 days....then bottled. It's been one week conditioning....I chilled one bottle and drank it yesterday. Tasted decent, smelled very good. Certainly hope and expect it will get better. Seemed pretty well carbonated, still cloudy and a lot of floating sediment. Only 24 hours in fridge. Not a lot of body to it right now.
How long do you primary ferment? And do you see any great improvement leaving it longer? How about bottle conditioning? I know 2 weeks is min, but does it improve with a few more weeks?
How long do you primary ferment? And do you see any great improvement leaving it longer? How about bottle conditioning? I know 2 weeks is min, but does it improve with a few more weeks?
MMJfan
Well-Known Member
It's still green. Give it another week to condition. It's amazing how much improvement there can be over one week.
However, you don't want it to go too long. The thing about IPA's is that they are best fresh.
Give the next one three full days in the fridge for the sediment to drop out. Although cloudy seems to be the latest trend in highly dry hopped beers. This beer should hit it's peak 2-4 weeks after bottling. Let us know how it goes, and post a pic of the next one.
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skeezerpleezer
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brewprint
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Not sure why you say this.
I keg my IPAs in around 10 days and they're good. What is green about an IPA? If his bottles are carbed they're done.
We may be nit picking here, but I think there may be conditioning differences between kegged and bottled beers. I too notice that the first beer I open, while it may be fully carbonated, is usually not as good as the next one a few days or a week later. Like ruascott, I too am usually anxious to try one, and usually open the first one after only 6-9 days in the bottle. Since I prime my IPAs to around 2.5 volumes, they're usually carbed after that time, but they do continue to improve in flavor over the next week or two.
Understand that kegged beers are force carbonated, while bottled beers undergo a second "mini" fermentation in the bottle. I'm not surprised that they continue to improve some, even after they are fully carbonated.
brewprint
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I remember when I used to bottle extract which was only just over a year ago; that the beer had a bad taste if drank before 3 weeks of conditioning. Never had the issue with a keg.
Thanks for your thoughts guys. I knew at one week it wasn't ready, but was excited to try.
Does anyone find there is any big advantage of letting it go longer in primary than I did, at 13 days from brew to bottle?
Does anyone find there is any big advantage of letting it go longer in primary than I did, at 13 days from brew to bottle?
milldoggy
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I brewed this a number of times, trying different hop combos, hop stands, etc. I primary for 3 weeks, dry hop in keg for 5-7 days. Then chill and carb. I find 3 weeks after removing the dry hops and carbing/chilling is the best. The flavors blend, something magically happens.
BTW the version I am dry hopping now is azzaca and citra. Mmmm
BTW the version I am dry hopping now is azzaca and citra. Mmmm
MMJfan
Well-Known Member
ruascott mentioned that they hoped the taste of their beer improved from what it was after a week of bottle conditioning so to me, that would signify the beer as being green or not fully conditioned. Just because the beer is showing signs of carbonation does not mean it isn't fully done conditioning which is why I find most of my beers not fully conditioned until about 2 weeks after I bottle.
I too have patience issues and usually crack one open after about a week and then I'm usually reminded it is good to wait...
shaman1204
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The guy that brews heady topper (alchemy?) says that that particular beer is best at the 10 week mark. And that's a hop bomb.
Just remember hop flavor and aroma starts to disapate as it gets older. Some breweries go as far to only sell certain hoppy bears in kegs otherwise they cant guarantee freshness or hiw old the bottles get.
This will be my third brew and I want to make sure I have my steps down correctly - any input or guidance would be much appreciated.
1. Steep Specialty Grains @ 150-155 in 2G for 30 minutes
2. While Steeping, Heat 5G @ 165-170
3. Sparge Grain Bag with 5G to bring Boil Volume to 7G
4. Full Heat
5. Introduce 1.00 oz Citra (FWH)
6. Rolling Boil Reached, Turn Off Heat
7. Stir in 3.00 lbs Extra Light DME
8. Turn On Heat, Return to Rolling Boil
9. Stir in 3.00 lbs Extra Light DME @ 20 minutes
8. 1.00 oz Citra @ 15 minutes
9. 1.00 Whirfloc Tablet @ 15 minutes
10. 1.00 oz Citra @ 10 minutes
11. 1.00 oz Citra @ 5 minutes
12. 1.00 oz Citra @ 1 minutes
13. Cool Rapidly
14. Strain Into Carboy
15. Aerate
16. Introduce Safale-S04
17. 14 Day Fermentation
18. 1.50 oz Citra Dry Hop for 3 days
19. 1.50 oz Citra Dry Hop for 3 days
1. Steep Specialty Grains @ 150-155 in 2G for 30 minutes
2. While Steeping, Heat 5G @ 165-170
3. Sparge Grain Bag with 5G to bring Boil Volume to 7G
4. Full Heat
5. Introduce 1.00 oz Citra (FWH)
6. Rolling Boil Reached, Turn Off Heat
7. Stir in 3.00 lbs Extra Light DME
8. Turn On Heat, Return to Rolling Boil
9. Stir in 3.00 lbs Extra Light DME @ 20 minutes
8. 1.00 oz Citra @ 15 minutes
9. 1.00 Whirfloc Tablet @ 15 minutes
10. 1.00 oz Citra @ 10 minutes
11. 1.00 oz Citra @ 5 minutes
12. 1.00 oz Citra @ 1 minutes
13. Cool Rapidly
14. Strain Into Carboy
15. Aerate
16. Introduce Safale-S04
17. 14 Day Fermentation
18. 1.50 oz Citra Dry Hop for 3 days
19. 1.50 oz Citra Dry Hop for 3 days
fuzzy2133
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Add your 1st, 3lbs of DME with the FWH. No need to wait for a boil before adding it. IMO this is easier since the DME will not stick to everything that is wet from steam and why sit doing nothing while the water heats. Also borrow the whisk from the kitchen to help get the DME mixed in faster for both additions.
