I am looking for solutions or options. I bottled my very first batch of hard cider on the 18th (5 gallons) I fermented for 2 weeks in first carboy and then let stand in second carboy for 3 weeks (only added splenda and some acid blend for flavoring no additional sugar). Online I found that if I wanted carbonated cider I should add a 1/4 teaspoon of dextrose sugar right before capping the bottles. Let it sit for 4-5 days then pasteurize the bottles so they don't explode. I did exactly this and I get a little hiss when I uncap but nothing near what I would consider carbonated. Did my yeast die? Should I have added some sugar to the second carboy to keep some yeast alive and feed? Any thoughts, I am considering trying carbonation tabs but I have like 3 1/2 lbs of the dextrose still, seems like a shame to waste it.
Carbonation (non-existant)
- Thread starter derrabe
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Bummer. You had the general idea, but screwed up in some details.
Because you used Splenda for sweetening, the only sugar for carbonation was the 1/4 tsp of dextrose. That's a very safe level, and pasteurizing was not necessary. Too late now though, your yeasts are dead.
Carbonation takes time, and you can't always be sure when it's done. I've had batches carb up in 5 days and others that took 2 weeks. You have to test a bottle every few days to check progress. But in your case you could have skipped pasteurization and let the fizz build up until the sugar ran out.
In the future, if you want to monitor the progress of bottle carbing scientifically, you can make a pressure monitor like this:
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=525085&page=2
Because you used Splenda for sweetening, the only sugar for carbonation was the 1/4 tsp of dextrose. That's a very safe level, and pasteurizing was not necessary. Too late now though, your yeasts are dead.
Carbonation takes time, and you can't always be sure when it's done. I've had batches carb up in 5 days and others that took 2 weeks. You have to test a bottle every few days to check progress. But in your case you could have skipped pasteurization and let the fizz build up until the sugar ran out.
In the future, if you want to monitor the progress of bottle carbing scientifically, you can make a pressure monitor like this:
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=525085&page=2
So am I using a good amount of dextrose or should I increase it to something like 1/2 teaspoon?
Zymomancer
Well-Known Member
You can calculate exactly how much sugar you need to add for priming using this:
http://www.northernbrewer.com/learn/resources/priming-sugar-calculator/
http://www.northernbrewer.com/learn/resources/priming-sugar-calculator/
If you're using splenda to sweeten (without 'real' sugar) and adding dextrose or sucrose for carbonation, one 12 ounce bottle will need 1/2 teaspoon per bottle or so.
It's usually easier to dissolve 1 ounce (by weight) of sugar per gallon of cider into a little water, and then add that to a bottling bucket and then siphon the cider into that to mix and then bottle from there. That means all sediment is left behind and the priming solution is easily mixed instead of trying to add 2 grams or so to each bottle.
1/4 teaspoon probably isn't going to give you any carbonation, depending on your bottle size.
You don't need to pasteurize cider that has finished fermenting unless you are adding sugar or juice to sweeten at bottling. Since you've used nonfermentable sugars to sweeten, it's not necessary. It's too late now to have carbonation, though, since it's been pasteurized and the yeast is dead.
I am planning on using the bottling bucket as the second stage container so if I were to add it before bottling would I just pour it in and then stir the mixture? But doing that would then allow the sediment to become unsettled? If maybe I added it the night before bottling would that would to still carbonate and allow the brew to settle back down? Lastly if I use say 1/2 teaspoon per 12 oz bottle I shouldn't need to pasteurize to stop the pressure in the bottle from become "explosive"?
You don't want to use a bottling bucket as a fermenter/container except for bottling, because you have a greater risk of oxidation as well as if you add sugar and stir it in, you'll just resuspend all of the sediment that settled out during that time.
Not that I don't trust your advise, but I am curious about the oxidation you speak of. If I know that the bucket is fully sealed why would oxidation be an issue? Do you not recommend using 5 gallon buckets during the fermentation? or just buckets with spigots?
For primary fermentation with active CO2 production a bucket is fine. The CO2 keeps oxygen out. Once fermentation slows and you rack to secondary you want to minimize exposure to oxygen. That's why we use siphons instead of just pouring. And we rack to a smaller sealed vessel, usually glass, and minimize the headspace above the cider that's exposed to air. When you get to bottling time you again rack off the lees with a siphon and avoid stirring.
So going from a 5 gallon carboy to another 5 gallon carboy is a no no for racking? In my last batch I had more head space in the racking carboy because I was told you don't siphon all the way to the bottom you leave about an inch so you don't transfer sediment. was I doing this wrong then?
Leave the sediment behind, yes. But you won't have 5 gallons any more so depending on what your yield is you might fill up a 3 gallon jug plus a 1 gallon and a 1/2 gallon jug. Many cider makers have a variety of bottles hanging around so we can choose the right sizes for whatever stage the cider is in.
Ok here is an update along with a question. On Saturday 8/15th I bottle my 2nd and 3rd batches after racking for 2 weeks. I made a cherry apple and a cranberry apple batch (5 gallons each). I added ¾ cups of dextrose to each batch in the bottling bucket (putting the sugar/water mix in first so that it mixes with the batch as a pour it in. I saw some directions on how to make some homemade psi gauges using a 12oz pop bottles but I don’t think I am getting a good seal and they don’t seem to be working. So I decided to use the other method which is just open one up every few days to check the carbonation. On day 4 after bottling I opened up one of the bottles and had virtually no carbonation, not any foam when pouring in to a glass. So I left them sit a few more days and tried again on day 7. This time I got quickly dissipating foam and a slight hiss when I opened the bottle. I poured it into a glass both times so I could check for bubbles. I got like 4-5 tiny bubbles floating to the surface but the stopped very shortly after pouring, then it appeared flat. So that is where I am at so far.
I am really trying to avoid a “bottle bomb” incident. I would have expected the carbonation to be much higher after almost quadrupling the carbonation sugar from the previous batch. Did I somehow kill the yeast during the racking processes? I have heard it could take up to 2 weeks but I am just surprised at how little carbonation is present after a week.
On the bottle cap psi guage any thoughts on how to get a better seal? I bought these guagues http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004VU8QH4?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00 and used 2 o-rings (one on top and one on bottom) and a hex nut but I think there is still a sealing option. Anyone have any thought. I can’t put any additional washer because the threading is not long enough to reach the nut with even one on. I thought about like epoxy or hot glue to seal instead of nut and o-rings.
I am really trying to avoid a “bottle bomb” incident. I would have expected the carbonation to be much higher after almost quadrupling the carbonation sugar from the previous batch. Did I somehow kill the yeast during the racking processes? I have heard it could take up to 2 weeks but I am just surprised at how little carbonation is present after a week.
On the bottle cap psi guage any thoughts on how to get a better seal? I bought these guagues http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004VU8QH4?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00 and used 2 o-rings (one on top and one on bottom) and a hex nut but I think there is still a sealing option. Anyone have any thought. I can’t put any additional washer because the threading is not long enough to reach the nut with even one on. I thought about like epoxy or hot glue to seal instead of nut and o-rings.
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The gauge you linked to has a 1/8" pipe thread. How did you get a nut on it? The ones I made use an adapter that takes the pipe thread and has a 10-32 screw at the other end. The adapter comes with a sealing washer. The stud is short so you do need to deburr the hole (a #10 screw fits in a 3/16" hole). The parts I used come from McMaster-Carr:
2684K19 Miniature Stainless Steel Threaded Pipe Fitting, 1/8 Pipe X 10-32 Thread Size, Reducing Adapter
3847K71 Multipurpose Gauge, Plastic Case, 1-1/2" Dial, 1/8 NPT Bottom, 0-60 PSI
See https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=525085&page=2
Otherwise, I think hot melt glue on top of the cap would seal it well enough.
2684K19 Miniature Stainless Steel Threaded Pipe Fitting, 1/8 Pipe X 10-32 Thread Size, Reducing Adapter
3847K71 Multipurpose Gauge, Plastic Case, 1-1/2" Dial, 1/8 NPT Bottom, 0-60 PSI
See https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=525085&page=2
Otherwise, I think hot melt glue on top of the cap would seal it well enough.
