Hey guys, I have a dedicated electrician question for you who are in the trade. I am rigging up my brew stand with electrical outlets so I can plug in my various equipment and wondered a few things. Here's a drawing so I can understand your answers based on what I gave you. I'm not good with all the terminology and things so we can stick to A,B,C,D,E..... LOL, here she is.
Ok, the plans are (and here's where you come in to tell me what more is needed or if this will work) to power the stand by construction grade extension cord (do not know if I need more than one???). The cord/cords "E" will be wired to the switches controlling the receptacles so I can have on/off control over my various equipment.
The First switch to be wired goes to the stir-fan on the HLT "A". This will be a simple fan powerful enough to stir the water for even heat distribution and control of my HLT water. I am planning to wire an extension cord just hanging out of the top of the brew-stand so I can unplug the fan and easily remove the HLT lid when I need to. This will probably stay on almost the entire time I am heating or maintaining heated water in the tun.
Then comes "B", which is the switch/receptacle for the motorized mash mixer (Rival ice cream machine motor) for the MT. This will be a "as needed" thing for mixing during doughing-in, step infusion water additions, returning decoction fractions, and stirring after batch sparge additions.
Next, is the switch/receptacle for the Ranco ETC and Heating element controlling the HLT "C". This switch will be turned on once the HLT is full of water and then the Ranco will be set to desired temperature. I will switch it off before emptying, then I will refill my tun with water and switch it back on again. So while the switch is on, it should only draw power when the Ranco tells the element to power up for heat (I am thinking but dunno).
Last, we have "D". This is the switch and receptacle for my March pump. I'm using an in-line rocker switch right now and will love having the pump controlled by a normal light switch when all is said and done. I only put one switch/receptacle in my drawing at this location, even though I will have a second garden pond pump going during wort chilling. At wort chilling time, I figured I would have another receptacle open to plug the second ice water recirculating pond pump into.
I am looking for worst case/most thorough information, just in case I do have everything powered at the same time. Can you guys help me out with, "If it were me" type answers. I really want to keep this at regular 120V outlet powered type stuff so please no 240V talk . The system is almost up and going I just thought instead of having a ton of different extension cords running to my brewery I would clean it up and make it this much more professional. Looking forward to some knowhow/knowledge on this subject from you guys in the trade.
Ok, the plans are (and here's where you come in to tell me what more is needed or if this will work) to power the stand by construction grade extension cord (do not know if I need more than one???). The cord/cords "E" will be wired to the switches controlling the receptacles so I can have on/off control over my various equipment.
The First switch to be wired goes to the stir-fan on the HLT "A". This will be a simple fan powerful enough to stir the water for even heat distribution and control of my HLT water. I am planning to wire an extension cord just hanging out of the top of the brew-stand so I can unplug the fan and easily remove the HLT lid when I need to. This will probably stay on almost the entire time I am heating or maintaining heated water in the tun.
Then comes "B", which is the switch/receptacle for the motorized mash mixer (Rival ice cream machine motor) for the MT. This will be a "as needed" thing for mixing during doughing-in, step infusion water additions, returning decoction fractions, and stirring after batch sparge additions.
Next, is the switch/receptacle for the Ranco ETC and Heating element controlling the HLT "C". This switch will be turned on once the HLT is full of water and then the Ranco will be set to desired temperature. I will switch it off before emptying, then I will refill my tun with water and switch it back on again. So while the switch is on, it should only draw power when the Ranco tells the element to power up for heat (I am thinking but dunno).
Last, we have "D". This is the switch and receptacle for my March pump. I'm using an in-line rocker switch right now and will love having the pump controlled by a normal light switch when all is said and done. I only put one switch/receptacle in my drawing at this location, even though I will have a second garden pond pump going during wort chilling. At wort chilling time, I figured I would have another receptacle open to plug the second ice water recirculating pond pump into.
I am looking for worst case/most thorough information, just in case I do have everything powered at the same time. Can you guys help me out with, "If it were me" type answers. I really want to keep this at regular 120V outlet powered type stuff so please no 240V talk . The system is almost up and going I just thought instead of having a ton of different extension cords running to my brewery I would clean it up and make it this much more professional. Looking forward to some knowhow/knowledge on this subject from you guys in the trade.