Firsrt time adjusting water, Am I doing it right?

Just received my water test results and planning to start making water ajustments on my future batches.
Two examples below, first one for a pale ale and second for a brown ale.
Am I making the correct adjustments, using the right salts?
Also, how do I calculate Bicarbonate, HCO3 and how to adjust that?
I saw John Palmer's table showing different ranges per style, like for a pale it is best from 0 to 50 and for a dark beer from 150 to 250.

First one: why the NaCl? If you are looking for Cl use CaCl2 instead. I probably would not use the MgSO4 either.

I would skip the baking soda and chalk on the second. You probably won't need it. I would just use CaCl2 to get to the desired Ca. Add it proportionally to the mash and sparge.

Beerrific said:

First one: why the NaCl? If you are looking for Cl use CaCl2 instead. I probably would not use the MgSO4 either.

I would skip the baking soda and chalk on the second. You probably won't need it. I would just use CaCl2 to get to the desired Ca. Add it proportionally to the mash and sparge.

Click to expand...

Thanks.
I see your point on the first one. Using CaCl2 instead of NaCl makes sense, so less Gypsum is needed.
MgSO4 would be to bring it to the range of 10-30. No? Doesn't make any difference?

On the second one, without any salts, the mash PH would be 5.06, lower than the recommended range. If I use only CaCl2, that would make it even lower, no?
I used chalk and baking soda to raise the mash PH.

I'm confused about the Mash water and Sparge water volume fields.
I do fly sparge, so I usually add 5gal strike water, mash, then fly sparge until I collect 5gals. I usually heat much more sparge water than needed, so I'm not sure how do I use thees 2 fields.

I have stopped adding Mg to my water per advice from ajdelange. He says that the malt itself has sufficient Mg. But obviously adding a little more won't hurt. (Just less work and one less salt to have to keep on hand.)

It has been my experience that the ez water calculator spreadsheet estimates pH low on dark beers (n=3). I brewed a 31, 20, and a 67 SRM beer and could have not used any baking soda or chalk at all; we have very similar tap water it seem (I did not realizing I should be measuring pH at room temp instead of mash temp). While it won't hurt to an extent, at some point you can taste the baking soda, but probably not at 6 grams.

My experiences:
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f128/dark-beer-mash-ph-201245/