Strong bitter aftertaste

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ChrisMoss

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Hey guys, I'm looking for some advice in desperation to try to resolve a repeated issue I've had with my homebrew.

The flavour I'm getting is massively bitter, but it has a really bad taste to it. Not like a big iipa, more like a really really green beer. The flavour overwhelms all other flavours in the beer. It also has a slight smell to it too.

Other symptoms: not sure about this brew (it's only been bottled 3 weeks) but in other batches I've had really over carbed gushers. I think largely because I have under pitched yeast and unfinished beers have then fermented in the bottle and created what I think is carbonic acid flavour. All of those batches have had the same flavour in that my recent batch had.

My recent batch was a pale ale, expected OG was # and actual was # but I used the exact amount of grain, exact mash temp and time.

I've detailed my brew process as it was for my last batch (which had this issue) in the hopes that this will help someone to help me work it out!

Cheers guys

Brew process
- Sterilise/clean with VWP (similar to PBW) - I take everything apart inc taps, then rinse
- Use tap water - cold - from Manchester uk - and heat to mash temp. Our water is known to be quite soft and I've had 2 fantastic IPAs and 3 good said one from it (with 1 teaspoon of gypsum) turn out great in the past
(I mash in with 25L water as its BIAB)
- add brew bag and gradually add grains when water had reached mash temp (I use BIAB inside a 32L/ 5uk gallon plastic brew kettle)
- cover over with the lid (this has a small hole to vent steam) and leave to sit in bag for mash time - always 60 minutes
- sparge - this has varied over time. I have almost always run off all the wort, then poured it straight back in to the run over the grains - then drain off. Then, run about 4L water at 77c slowly over grains and drain off
(This last batch my friend and I circulated the 77c sparge water repeatedly through the grains a bit more - this could have been over sparging)
- bring to the boil and then after hot break, add hops to recipe (recent batch was only meant to be 40IBU or less) and boil for 1 hour. NB I always have the lid mostly over - at least half covered - to try to keep liquid from evaporating. I've learned recently I shouldn't cover it.
- add (sterilised) copper chilling coil @10mins
- at flameout - add 0mins hops and steep for 10 mins before turning on chiller. All 5 batches I have successfully done in the past I didn't steep and chilled right away.
- cover kettle during steep and period of chilling to avoid oxidation
- when chilled, add to primary fermenter (bucket), splash as much as possible, pitch yeast and put lid on - then shake up as much as possible
- leave at around 18-20c for fermentation time
- ferment for usually 10 days before dry hopping for about 7 days - all in primary - pellet hops in hop socks/mesh bags that have been sanitised and rinsed (as don't want VWP in the beer)
- transfer into bottling bucket with tap and bottling stick - all of which have had hot water soak with VWP - and bottle

That's pretty much it. I figured I'd had at least a few infected batches, as they end up with the same terrible bitter taste and are massively over carbed. Although often I haven't hit exact OG or FG with these brews so figured it might be that. However with recent batch OG was too high, FG was spot on, stayed stable for 10 days before bottling.

Sorry that's so long but I'm dying to get my process right as I've made some great beers and know I can do it - so don't know where I'm going wrong!

Cheers!

Chris
 
Does the off taste have any astringency (makes you want to pucker like sucking on a tea bag)? If so, you might be getting tannin extraction. It sounds like you are making lighter colored beers, which almost always need some acid added to the mash to keep the pH from getting too high (greater than 5.8.) Acid can be added either with acidulated malt, or liquid acids like lactic or phosphoric. High mash and/or sparge pH can lead to tannin extraction. Check out the water knowledge page here: https://sites.google.com/site/brunwater/water-knowledge to learn about adjusting your water to get a good mash pH.

If you have had several infected batches, you should think about improving your sanitization protocol. Using a sanitizer that needs to be rinsed leads to opportunities for recontamination during the rinsing process. I would suggest you try StarSan (it is available in the UK.) Dip in, or spray with, StarSan solution any items (that touch the wort/beer after the boil) immediately before using them. Do not rinse or dry the items. StarSan foams, which helps it work better. Don't worry about getting a little foam in your beer/wort. It won't hurt you or the beer, and you can't taste it. 1 oz of concentrated StarSan will make 5 gal (US) working solution. The working solution can be kept for months (as long as the pH stays below 3.0.) Solution made with low alkalinity (soft) water keeps well.

...

- sparge - this has varied over time. I have almost always run off all the wort, then poured it straight back in to the run over the grains - then drain off. Then, run about 4L water at 77c slowly over grains and drain off
(This last batch my friend and I circulated the 77c sparge water repeatedly through the grains a bit more - this could have been over sparging)

...
You are wasting a lot of effort with your "sparging" protocol. Sparging is adding fresh water to rinse the retained sugar (actually wort) from the grains. Recirculating wort back thru the grain will not extract additional sugar. It can help equalize the sugar concentration throughout the wort, but that can be accomplished better by stirring the mash well before draining.

Recirculating the sparged wort that results from a pour over sparge can improve your sugar extraction somewhat. This is different than the original mash wort because the pour over sparge is not usually 100% efficient at getting the maximum amount of sugar in one pass. You can insure maximum sparge efficiency by switching to a dunk (batch) sparge. After draining and squeezing the bag, place it into a bucket, add your sparge water, stir well for a few minutes, then drain and squeeze the bag. Add the sparged wort to the BK. To maximize efficiency with a batch sparge, target roughly equal runnings for the initial mash and sparge. You can usually get close enough to equal runnings by using 60% of your water for strike, and the remaining 40% for sparge.

Brew on :mug:
 

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