Kettle mash tun

I have been brewing extract for a couple years now and am looking to get into all grain. I know I have to get a new pot. My first thought was to get a 10g with a false bottom which I could use as a mash tun, lauter to a bucket, then transfer back so I could do my boil in it.

One thing I just don't quite understand is what else I might need to make this system "efficient". Do I need to construct a manifold or something under the false bottom if I want to fly-sparge or is the SS false bottom sufficient? I read about these channeling effects when people only use a single braid in a mash tun cooler and don't see how that same thing wouldn't happen with a single valve on the pot. I'm looking at the polar ware's and mega pots, any thoughts?
I need to be enlightened.


-- Steve

You can't go wrong with Polar Ware, except maybe on the $$$. As for the process you described, I would be a little concerned that you might oxidize the hot wort pouring back into the boil kettle. You might try siphoning it from the pails instead?

You shouldn't need to do anything if you get their false bottom to match the kettle size. you won't experience the channeling you talk about.

- False bottom is the best way to fly sparge - no need for anything else. (For Batch sparging it doesn't matter enough to bother either way because you reset the bed multiple times).

- Hot side aeration is real, but through many different avenues I've learned that it doesn't really have an impact at the homebrew scale.

- I dont have a stand or a pump and I've always batch sparged into a pot and then poured the runnings in the pot into my kettle. Hot side aeration everywhere. But haven't tasted an impact since going this route. Avoid it if you can, but on the chain of priorities, it's near the bottom.

Oh-- forgot something:

If you are spending a lot of $$ on a 10 gallon kettle, I must suggest going to 15 gallons. Assuming you continue this hobby, that 10 gallon kettle will become obsolete sooner than you'd think. By upgrading to a 15 gallon you allow yourself to do high gravity beers (barley wine, imperial IPA/Pils/stouts) and to do 10 gallon batches. Recommendation #2 is to look into converting a keg - not the best option for everyone, but a good one for many.

Thanks for the replies. I have seen much advice to buy the 15g over the 10g pots. Will the increased size affect my ability to fly sparge 5 gallon batches? I like the idea of buying something that I can "grow into" but my reality of an apartment based life means I only brewing inside and don't see brewing 10g batches. I don't think my stove inside would work too well for that.

On an aside. I like the idea of these march pumps in looking at videos online and some setups. Can you just thread a ball valve right on the "outlet" side to control the flow once the pump is primed? How loud are these pumps? It seems like a nice thing to have both to recirculate the mash and to transfer these hot liquids around (especially with these oxidation warnings).

Thanks again guys. This forum is bad ass. :rockin:

-- Steve

Will the increased size affect my ability to fly sparge 5 gallon batches?

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No
I get 85+ efficiency using a 15gal converted keg as a mash tun on 5 gallon batches. Just make sure you add the space under the false bottom to your strike water.

I fired off an order just now, should be brewing AG next weekend.

budbo said:

Just make sure you add the space under the false bottom to your strike water.

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What does that mean exactly?

That's one way to use a Marsh pump. They are magnetic drive, so they are relatively quiet...at least mine is and can handle boild wort no problem.