Inkbird itc-308? $35 gets you wired, 2 stage temp controller.

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ross_daly

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I stumbled onto this controller this morning, and it seems like there's very little info out about it. It looks good though. Inkbird already makes a non-flashable stc-1000 in farenheit that seems to be reasonably popular. Hopefully this will be worth the price. It's cheaper than an STC and a case / cord / sockets.

Has anyone used one of these itc-308s? I think they JUST hit amazon, and because of the 3-8 week shipping schedule it doesn't have any reviews yet. It looks like it's essentially an encased stc-1000 clone that comes pre-wired. For $35 it's cheaper than almost all of the non-ghetto stc builds and looks a lot nicer and safer.

Let me know if you have one, and what your experience is. I'd definitely bite if I had a need, but I'm up to my neck in stc's right now!
EDIT - Here's more info from the manufacturer
 
I stumbled onto this controller this morning, and it seems like there's very little info out about it. It looks good though. Inkbird already makes a non-flashable stc-1000 in farenheit that seems to be reasonably popular. Hopefully this will be worth the price. It's cheaper than an STC and a case / cord / sockets.

Has anyone used one of these itc-308s? I think they JUST hit amazon, and because of the 3-8 week shipping schedule it doesn't have any reviews yet. It looks like it's essentially an encased stc-1000 clone that comes pre-wired. For $35 it's cheaper than almost all of the non-ghetto stc builds and looks a lot nicer and safer.

Let me know if you have one, and what your experience is. I'd definitely bite if I had a need, but I'm up to my neck in stc's right now!


may want to try a search option next time... this threads only a few days old from lerway himself (inkbird) posing to be a homebrewer who "came across this controller"

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=535435
 
I have one on order. Amazon says it will be here before Monday. I've had 2 Johnson Controls units flake on me. 1 shorted when wet, the other still functions if you can interpret numbers with a missing top right to middle right LCD not functioning. Not a fan for the price after buying 2. Looking forward to the Inkbird. Seems like a "Set it forget it" dream.

Edit 7/8: Amazon updated projected delivery to 7/30 - 8/17, must be shipping from China.
 
may want to try a search option next time... this threads only a few days old from lerway himself (inkbird) posing to be a homebrewer who "came across this controller"

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=535435

While I always agree with you on searching, I already tried that. Here is the search for "ITC 308" and here is the search for "ITC-308" (as it is written in the amazon posting.) Both come up with nothing found. Here are all 21,000 results for "inkbird", and the itc-308 wasn't there before my post. If you're expecting people to go more than three searches deep, then you must exist in a very thoroughly-researched corner of the internet. I'm sorry I don't know that lerway=inkbird, but I did enough due diligence to not feel any remorse for including:
  • more info
  • a clickable link
  • and more easily understandable (and searchable) english (no offense to presumably non-native english speaker Lerway)
 
While I always agree with you on searching, I already tried that. Here is the search for "ITC 308" and here is the search for "ITC-308" (as it is written in the amazon posting.) Both come up with nothing found. Here are all 21,000 results for "inkbird", and the itc-308 wasn't there before my post. If you're expecting people to go more than three searches deep, then you must exist in a very thoroughly-researched corner of the internet. I'm sorry I don't know that lerway=inkbird, but I did enough due diligence to not feel any remorse for including:
  • more info
  • a clickable link
  • and more easily understandable (and searchable) english (no offense to presumably non-native english speaker Lerway)
you forgot to search "ITC308" just saying there are three ways to search by model numbers... with spaces, without and with dashes and without. people tend to spell them any of those three ways...

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/search.php?searchid=31504978
and honestly google works better than this sites search engine... Guess what the first google search result is when you search "ITC-308 controller".. its the third result if you just search "ITC-308"... No crazy search skills needed...


https://www.google.com/search?q=itc-308+controller&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8
 
I would like to have anyone who receives one of these check how the electrical switching is implemented to the outlet sockets. The Ink-Bird web site (and the available tutorial) both recommend wiring an Ink-Bird ITC-1000 as follows:

Ink-Bird wiring recommendation.jpg

Notice that they recommend switching power to the load using the neutral wire, and having the hot lines always on. This method of wiring violates the National Electrical Code, Article 404. NEC 404 specifically requires that the switching be done on the hot side of the load circuit.

If you get one of these controllers, and have a voltmeter available, would you please check the hot side of the output socket when the socket is in the off mode. If you can measure 120V between the hot side of the socket and ground when the outlet is supposed to be off, then the device is wired incorrectly, and also violates the NEC. If you do this, please report back.

Update: I have been in contact with Ink-Bird, and they are having their engineering team verify that the ITC-308 is wired in accordance with the NEC. I will be receiving a unit in order to verify myself that the hot lines are switched as required by code. I will report back as soon as this is completed.

Update 2: As of 7/8/15 the Ink-Bird web site and .pdf tutorial are now recommending hot line switching rather than neutral switching.

Brew on :mug:
 
you forgot to search "ITC308" just saying there are three ways to search by model numbers... with spaces, without and with dashes and without. people tend to spell them any of those three ways...

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/search.php?searchid=31504978
and honestly google works better than this sites search engine... Guess what the first google search result is when you search "ITC-308 controller".. its the third result if you just search "ITC-308"... No crazy search skills needed...


https://www.google.com/search?q=itc-308+controller&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8


Get over yourself.


Watching this. Thanks OP!
 
I stumbled onto this controller this morning, and it seems like there's very little info out about it. It looks good though. Inkbird already makes a non-flashable stc-1000 in farenheit that seems to be reasonably popular. Hopefully this will be worth the price. It's cheaper than an STC and a case / cord / sockets.

Has anyone used one of these itc-308s? I think they JUST hit amazon, and because of the 3-8 week shipping schedule it doesn't have any reviews yet. It looks like it's essentially an encased stc-1000 clone that comes pre-wired. For $35 it's cheaper than almost all of the non-ghetto stc builds and looks a lot nicer and safer.

Let me know if you have one, and what your experience is. I'd definitely bite if I had a need, but I'm up to my neck in stc's right now!
EDIT - Here's more info from the manufacturer

Thank you very much for your attention.
This is our new product which just started selling on this Monday.
Now we just can ship it by USPS international service, normally it will take about 2 weeks to be delivered.
Any questions, please feel free to contact us.
 
Looks good. Different heating/cooling differentials should make those who believe in "free rise" happy.

Will have different plugs for different markets?
 
Great.Well, could you please tell me from where you got the first information about the "ITC-308"? From HBT ,FB ,Google or other ways.

Thank you.:tank:
 
For $35 it's cheaper than almost all of the non-ghetto stc builds and looks a lot nicer and safer.

I just want to say that safer might be a stretch. The STC-1000 is fairly well known by now, and IMHO is reasonably well built. Of course if you don't know what you are doing wiring it yourself may make it a lot less safe :)
We don't know much (or anything) about this controller yet.

Still, I agree, this does seem like a very good option if it delivers.
I wonder what MCU is inside that thing :)
 
I would like to have anyone who receives one of these check how the electrical switching is implemented to the outlet sockets. The Ink-Bird web site (and the available tutorial) both recommend wiring an Ink-Bird ITC-1000 as follows:

View attachment 288935

Notice that they recommend switching power to the load using the neutral wire, and having the hot lines always on. This method of wiring violates the National Electrical Code, Article 404. NEC 404 specifically requires that the switching be done on the hot side of the load circuit.

If you get one of these controllers, and have a voltmeter available, would you please check the hot side of the output socket when the socket is in the off mode. If you can measure 120V between the hot side of the socket and ground when the outlet is supposed to be off, then the device is wired incorrectly, and also violates the NEC. If you do this, please report back.

Update: I have been in contact with Ink-Bird, and they are having their engineering team verify that the ITC-308 is wired in accordance with the NEC. I will be receiving a unit in order to verify myself that the hot lines are switched as required by code. I will report back as soon as this is completed.

Brew on :mug:

This is how some countries do it I believe... I used to be a spire instructor for Ricoh on wide format ricoh plotters/copies and all thier machines were wired as "Ground switching" which was actually nuetral in our case. thier arguement was it was easier on the life of the components somehow. I remember a lot of techs having a hard time with it.
 
Seems great.Well, could you please tell me from where you got the first information about the "ITC-308"? I never see it before. From HBT ,FB ,Google or other ways.

Thank you.:tank:

Look above... google has info and theres another thread here were the distributor is pretending to be a home brewer who "found" it but if you click his signature link you will see he is inkbird. (funny because Lerway sells regular non inkbird stc1000 units too)...I have purchased them from him.
 
And oddly enough, it got deleted.

Do you have done sort of problem with members of the community attempting to share info?

It likely got deleted because a NONSUPPORTING vender (Lerway is inkbird apparently by his signature link) started the thread posing to be a potential customer to start hype about his own product...

Why do you think I had anything do do with it? You seem to like starting confrontations for some reason... rough day at work?
 
Get over yourself.


Watching this. Thanks OP!

?
Um I simply suggested he try searching and he came back with the analytical response... To which I had to respond to in the same way...(which I'm sure he saw coming)

Basically all he had to do was google it and he made it seem as if it takes a degree in web structure to do so successfully.... other people as well as him could benefit from the knowledge shared here all the time that the forums search function is not very good compared to just googling your topic and adding "homebrewtalk"

The OP even agreed with my initial comment that searching would be best if your looking for info on something... I simply added info on how to do this successfully. I often get accused of "wasting" all this time trying to find things cheaper and such so I like to explain how simple and fast it really is to research something whenever I think it might benefit someone.

Let refrain from the childish **** shall we?
 
?
Um I simply suggested he try searching and he came back with the analytical response... To which I had to respond to in the same way...(which I'm sure he saw coming)

Basically all he had to do was google it and he made it seem as if it takes a degree in web structure to do so successfully.... other people as well as him could benefit from the knowledge shared here all the time that the forums search function is not very good compared to just googling your topic and adding "homebrewtalk"

The OP even agreed with my initial comment that searching would be best if your looking for info on something... I simply added info on how to do this successfully. I often get accused of "wasting" all this time trying to find things cheaper and such so I like to explain how simple and fast it really is to research something whenever I think it might benefit someone.

Let refrain from the childish **** shall we?

Will do.
 
I ordered all my parts to make an Inkbird (STC-1000 clone) last week - wish I would have waited for this!
 
Look above... google has info and theres another thread here were the distributor is pretending to be a home brewer who "found" it but if you click his signature link you will see he is inkbird. (funny because Lerway sells regular non inkbird stc1000 units too)...I have purchased them from him.

I see,so you find it on homebrewtalk .Thank you.
 
I see,so you find it on homebrewtalk .Thank you.

Is this Lerway?
I think there might be some info being lost in translation here... there is nothing wrong for someone to say "hey check out this new product" but personally, I dont like it when someone pretends to be a customer who wants to buy one to promote thier own stuff to others... Whether or not it was the reason it was pulled or the fact that lerway is not a supporting vender and not suppose to promote stuff because of that I dont know.

Anyway I didnt get to see the comments lerway quoted me on before one of the mods removed the thread so not sure what happened either way, But I had nothing to do with it.

No big deal at this point since this thread is still active and getting press..
 
Is this Lerway?
I think there might be some info being lost in translation here... there is nothing wrong for someone to say "hey check out this new product" but personally, I dont like it when someone pretends to be a customer who wants to buy one to promote thier own stuff to others... Whether or not it was the reason it was pulled or the fact that lerway is not a supporting vender and not suppose to promote stuff because of that I dont know.

Anyway I didnt get to see the comments lerway quoted me on before one of the mods removed the thread so not sure what happened either way, But I had nothing to do with it.

No big deal at this point since this thread is still active and getting press..

Even is Lerway, who was banned for spamming/duplicate account. We are working with them to inform them about our policies regarding Vendors and creating additional accounts.

Because of the language barrier I wish to make sure they fully understand those policies before closing the additional account(s).
 
I ordered all my parts to make an Inkbird (STC-1000 clone) last week - wish I would have waited for this!
I did so yesterday but I am not disappointed I did not wait. Their "clone" has been out long enough there is a body of knowledge on it a bit of "it does work" history. A new product is a gamble until at least a few of us have tried it...in particular their original manual was impossible to decipher while the current one has, I believe, been reviewed and edited by members of this board and probably others so it reads about like you would hope...as if it were written by a native English speaker.
 
I would like to have anyone who receives one of these check how the electrical switching is implemented to the outlet sockets. The Ink-Bird web site (and the available tutorial) both recommend wiring an Ink-Bird ITC-1000 as follows:

View attachment 288935

Notice that they recommend switching power to the load using the neutral wire, and having the hot lines always on. This method of wiring violates the National Electrical Code, Article 404. NEC 404 specifically requires that the switching be done on the hot side of the load circuit.

In short (pun intended) the proper wiring would be to swap the Neutral and Hot in all locations on this schematic if you have their "1000" controller...correct?
 
I did so yesterday but I am not disappointed I did not wait. Their "clone" has been out long enough there is a body of knowledge on it a bit of "it does work" history. A new product is a gamble until at least a few of us have tried it...in particular their original manual was impossible to decipher while the current one has, I believe, been reviewed and edited by members of this board and probably others so it reads about like you would hope...as if it were written by a native English speaker.

I have one too and yes they work fine. I removed mine and replaced it with the stc1000+ unit with alphaomegas software and proper english instructions... I flashed my own stock stc1000 units but these can be bought preflashed for like $30 and they have way more functionality like temp ramping and scheduled temp profiles for fermenting different beer types with different yeasts... just figured its worth mentioning since many dont seem to know about them.
 
I have one too and yes they work fine. I removed mine and replaced it with the stc1000+ unit with alphaomegas software and proper english instructions... I flashed my own stock stc1000 units but these can be bought preflashed for like $30 and they have way more functionality like temp ramping and scheduled temp profiles for fermenting different beer types with different yeasts... just figured its worth mentioning since many dont seem to know about them.

All that seems great but I just want a more reliable, cheaper alternative to the Johnson controller so for a grand total of about $25 (plus stuff I have lying around), this and a small project box does the trick.

Heck, my eBIAB keggle is two 2000W elements (on separate circuits) with waterproof switches. I am a pretty simple guy.
 
All that seems great but I just want a more reliable, cheaper alternative to the Johnson controller so for a grand total of about $25 (plus stuff I have lying around), this and a small project box does the trick.

Heck, my eBIAB keggle is two 2000W elements (on separate circuits) with waterproof switches. I am a pretty simple guy.

nothing wrong with that.... but you mentioned wanting simple instructions for use.... you realize your going to get engrish with this unit right? Besides that Im sure it will work out pretty well, especially for $30 or whatever it costs.
 
nothing wrong with that.... but you mentioned wanting simple instructions for use.... you realize your going to get engrish with this unit right? Besides that Im sure it will work out pretty well, especially for $30 or whatever it costs.

If you look at their most current iteration of the instructions they have cleaned it up a lot. Still a bit grammatically challenged...again, I am still talking about the "1000" and not the new pre-wired unit.
 
In short (pun intended) the proper wiring would be to swap the Neutral and Hot in all locations on this schematic if you have their "1000" controller...correct?

You should follow the directions that have been on their web site (and in the .pdf tutorial) since 7/8/15 (yesterday as I write this.) The wiring directions were corrected as of that date. The bottom line is that you want the hot wire going to the relays in the ITC-1000. Their old directions had the neutral wire going to the relays. This is the corrected diagram.

Ink-Bird wiring - corrected.jpg

Brew on :mug:
 
It looks like a nice product and the price is certainly attractive. The wiring issue mention in this thread his me a bit concerned (though I barely understand it). Following to see the reviews once people have them in hand.
 
It looks like a nice product and the price is certainly attractive. The wiring issue mention in this thread his me a bit concerned (though I barely understand it). Following to see the reviews once people have them in hand.

I do not want to make to light of the issue but it is a lot like the old end-of-line switches that a lot of older homes still have...or even the older method of wiring 2-way switches. It is not inherently dangerous if not messed with but it does have the risk that the plug is always hot...so do not stick a paperclip in there while standing in water.
 

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