jburkh said:
david, is there any reason I should pitch a champagne or wine yeast in stead of the 1098 british ale that I've already used?
Here's the dealy: only you can answer your own question...by taking gravity readings. Once airlock activity has subsided and the krausen has fallen, take a specific grav reading. Then, take another reading several days later. If you don't witness any change, then it's done. The second thing to note is what your final gravity is, because this determines the need for repitching with a yeast that is more alcohol-tolerant.
My first barleywine got a packet of Nottingham dry yeast. It went from 1.125 to 1.030. Having never made a barleywine before, I thought that champagne yeast was required after primary was finished. So, I pitched a packet of dry champagne yeast, and nothing ever happened. Turned out, 1.030 was as far as it would get. And you know what? It turned out to be amazing beer, and very ageable. See, the thing with barleywine is, it's supposed to age. And with age, it dries out. So, given that fact, it's not a problem for it to finish sweeter (higher FG) than a normal beer.
So, what was your OG? Compare that to your FG when the time comes. And if the FG is very far above 1.035, I'd try some champagne yeast (because it tolerates higher alcohol levels). But if it's 1.035 or lower, just age it in secondary for a few months, then bottle. However, also note that, with that much secondary aging, most of the yeast is likely to drop out of suspension, meaning that you'll need to add some more rehydrated dry yeast (or liquid if you want, but I wouldn't waste it) at bottling time. A few pinches of dry yeast will probably be fine. Just mix it in some sanitized water, then mix that with your cooled priming sugar solution.
Then, do yourself a favor: leave it alone for a long time. As Papa-Z sayeth, a barleywine before its time is like a mountain without a peak.