New to brewing, want a 60qt pot I'll never have to upgrade!

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GOOCHY

GOOCHY

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I'm getting all my gear together to brew my first batch and would like to purchase a 60qt pot with a valve/spigot.

I assume stainless steel is the way to go here, but I'm unsure. Are keggles just as good? I saw a place selling them for $130 plus ship a few weeks ago. Either way, in the future I'll probably be doing 10 gallon batches once I start doing all-grain brewing. I want to buy a pot, one time, and be done with it for good.

Any suggestions?
 
I'd recommend getting a smaller pot to start. Like a 3 gallon aluminum to do partial boil extract batches in or a 30qt turkey fryer that you can do full boils in if you watch carefully for boilovers.

It will be good to move to a larger kettle later, but to start off you'll be doing 5 gallon batches and a large kettle won't do you any good right off the bat.

Once you brew a few batches, you'll know your needs and can work up from there. For now, I strongly recommend starting a bit smaller.
 
I strongly disagree with Hikeon3. If you have the means to go full boil right away... DO IT!!! This will make much better beer than a concentrated boil and you will not be wasting money on an intermediate pot.

I have decided that all the bells and whistles of the boilermaker from Blichmann are a good purchase and worth the money. Yes it is expensive, but it has all the features you want and looks nice to boot. My second kettle choice is the heavy duty line from B3. Third choice would be a keggle.

All those options will be great. I have a three keggle brewery now and it works great, just not as nice as those other kettles.
 
Boerderij_Kabouter said:
I strongly disagree with Hikeon3. If you have the means to go full boil right away... DO IT!!! This will make much better beer than a concentrated boil and you will not be wasting money on an intermediate pot.

I have decided that all the bells and whistles of the boilermaker from Blichmann are a good purchase and worth the money. Yes it is expensive, but it has all the features you want and looks nice to boot. My second kettle choice is the heavy duty line from B3. Third choice would be a keggle.

All those options will be great. I have a three keggle brewery now and it works great, just not as nice as those other kettles.
Click to expand...

+1 here... I wish I had gone full boil right away. I will admit when it's time for you to start doing all grain, stick with the right size MLT, (I can do 5 gal batches on my 10 gal rig... but efficiency suffers) anyway, get the biggest bang for your buck.... 60 QT is right on target
 
I also disagree with Hikeon3, but the point is valid. Brewing is a hobby, so it depends on your financial situation is, and how much money you really want to spend to try things out.

That being said as far as pot size:
  • 20qt -> 5 gallon partial boils
  • 30-40qt -> 5 gallon full boils (Still need to watch out for boilovers)
  • 60qt -> 5-10 gallon full boils

Stainless or aluminum is your call. Stainless is more expensive, but a little easier to clean.
 
Boerderij_Kabouter said:
I strongly disagree with Hikeon3. If you have the means to go full boil right away... DO IT!!!

I have decided that all the bells and whistles of the boilermaker from Blichmann are a good purchase and worth the money. Yes it is expensive, but it has all the features you want and looks nice to boot.

All those options will be great. I have a three keggle brewery now and it works great, just not as nice as those other kettles.
Click to expand...

Your above statement about the Blichmann Boilermaker with all the features, "bells and whistles" you can have all those same "features" added to any keggle.

You have a "three keggle brewery now and it works great, just not as nice as those kettles".


The differences I see in those high cost kettles vs keggles, those kettles of a thinner gauge than a keggle, a larger open surface area of sq/inches causing a faster boil off rate plus the shiny pretty finish vs a used converted keg converted into a keggle that can also be polished "shiny". Those kettles came from flat sheet stainless like kegs everything being equal except they use thin gauge stainless from the start. I do not understand how "those other shiny kettles" can make a better wort vs converted kegs into keggles with the same temperature gauges, valves, bells and whistles added? Not alone the money spent for those shiny vs used converted kegs into keggles that can also be polished until shiny. This being equal if they contain the same volume in gallons each. Sorry my taste buds can not taste the difference from wort brewed in a shiny kettle vs a polished shiny keggle, but my butt sure can feel it when I sit down every time with that fat wallet feeling still there plus my brewery in front of me to look at. I may be coming on harsh here with this reply, it's also that feeling of accomplishment from building a system that gives me the same end result instead of just opening the wallet plus I have full control on the design not what is available take it or leave it. Sorry boss, I had to reply to your reply.
 
Kegs are not cheaper than kettles if you are comparing a new product vs a new product. They are not reliably that much cheaper used if they are obtained legally.

So lets compare stolen kegs to stolen kettles or not compare them at all.
 
Thanks for the assurances, guys. I'm doing some price shopping, but I'll definitely be getting a 60qt.
 
But if you go ahead an get a 60 quart pot, you will miss an important part of the hobby...."Gear Upgrade-itus," and It's cousin "Gear Envy."

Combined it's lusting after another brewer's gear than having the joy of spending money to upgrade later on..

Getting everything you need right away is like losing your virginity to a pornstar, you'll never be able to top it, and everything will leave you short...and you'll have no goals/fantasies to reach for....nothing to look forward to later...

Errr.....Getting everything you need right away is like losing your virginity to Twin pornstars...

Um....Getting everything you need right away is like losing your virginity to Twin pornstars, in school girl outfits...

Or...Getting everything you need right away is like losing your virginity to Twin pornstars, in school girl outfits in zero G....

Getting everything you need right away is like losing your virginity to Twin pornstars, in school girl outfits in zero G, except they're not really sisters, they just look a lot alike, and are bi-sexual....


Uhm...may I introduce you to the saabco system?

sabcoMagic.gif



Screw it, get the pot, there's always something more to lust after in this hobby.

:mug:
 
remilard said:
Kegs are not cheaper than kettles if you are comparing a new product vs a new product. They are not reliably that much cheaper used if they are obtained legally.

So lets compare stolen kegs to stolen kettles or not compare them at all.
Click to expand...

Not every cheap keg was stolen... I have a friend of mine who fixes stainless tanks for farmers... When he goes to the scrap yard, he can swap scrap for scrap. If I need another keg, he'll keep an eye out for the shipment from BMC (usually 20-40 kegs) and then he'll swap out the weight of the keg for the weight of the scrap he would be selling. I pay him scrap price plus a few bucks for his trouble. (Not to mention some tasty home brew)
 
BrewBeemer said:
Your above statement about the Blichmann Boilermaker with all the features, "bells and whistles" you can have all those same "features" added to any keggle.

You have a "three keggle brewery now and it works great, just not as nice as those kettles".


The differences I see in those high cost kettles vs keggles, those kettles of a thinner gauge than a keggle, a larger open surface area of sq/inches causing a faster boil off rate plus the shiny pretty finish vs a used converted keg converted into a keggle that can also be polished "shiny". Those kettles came from flat sheet stainless like kegs everything being equal except they use thin gauge stainless from the start. I do not understand how "those other shiny kettles" can make a better wort vs converted kegs into keggles with the same temperature gauges, valves, bells and whistles added? Not alone the money spent for those shiny vs used converted kegs into keggles that can also be polished until shiny. This being equal if they contain the same volume in gallons each. Sorry my taste buds can not taste the difference from wort brewed in a shiny kettle vs a polished shiny keggle, but my butt sure can feel it when I sit down every time with that fat wallet feeling still there plus my brewery in front of me to look at. I may be coming on harsh here with this reply, it's also that feeling of accomplishment from building a system that gives me the same end result instead of just opening the wallet plus I have full control on the design not what is available take it or leave it. Sorry boss, I had to reply to your reply.
Click to expand...

My point was that the kettles look nicer and are a more slick package. I could build a whole house with the cheapest and worst put together tools on the planet... but it would be much more enjoyable to use things made exactly for the job. I just like the setup and usage of the design specific kettles. The thinner gauge is only true of the Blichmann, the B3 kettles are thicker with a aluminum sandwich base. It doesn't much matter, the low viscosity and high turbulence of the wort makes the kettle thickness more or less irrelevant.

No you cannot taste the difference between wort made with a keggle and a Blichmann, but the user knows which he/she used and how enjoyable the experience was.

Also BrewBeemer, you continue to forgot that 99.99999% of the population does not have a full machine shop and infinite stainless stock sitting in their garage. To legally obtain a keg, all the stainless fittings, nice thermometer, sight glass with a protective cage, and a three piece ball valve, you are paying less tan $100 to upgrade to the Blichmann. It is worth it IMHO.

Others will differ and mention that they have done keggles for $20. This is true. But it will not have all the features, and will MOST likely not have been legally obtained.
 
If you have the financial reasources to get the bigger pot/kettle, then do it. As for what to get, it's your money, space and brewery. Look at what's important to you. If you like the DIY, make a keggle. There is no ONE answer on equpiment. What fits you and your style will determine the equipment choices.
 
Hikeon3 said:
I'd recommend getting a smaller pot to start. Like a 3 gallon aluminum to do partial boil extract batches in or a 30qt turkey fryer that you can do full boils in if you watch carefully for boilovers.

It will be good to move to a larger kettle later, but to start off you'll be doing 5 gallon batches and a large kettle won't do you any good right off the bat.

Once you brew a few batches, you'll know your needs and can work up from there. For now, I strongly recommend starting a bit smaller.
Click to expand...


At the risk of being crude, that is ridiculous. You are essentially throwing money away on a 3 gallon pot that will eventually be nothing more than a 3 gallon paperweight. You can make small batches with a large kettle, but you can't make large batches with a small one. In this case it is more cost effective to get the big one right away.

OP: You might want to keep your eyes open for restaurant auctions. You can get used SS pots really cheap if you can find them.
 
I picked up an 80qt/20 gal aluminum pot and just put a spigot on it. If you can go big definitely do it.
 
How hard was it to put the spigot on an Aluminum pot? I'd be willing to try it if it isn't too difficult.
 
remilard said:
Kegs are not cheaper than kettles if you are comparing a new product vs a new product. They are not reliably that much cheaper used if they are obtained legally.

So lets compare stolen kegs to stolen kettles or not compare them at all.
Click to expand...

That's the most ridiculous thing I've ever heard said about keggles. You can find plenty of keggles in the scrapyard legally for <$40. If you are willing to bang out a few dents, even less. Add a weldless ball valve for another $40 and that's all you need for a boil kettle. So, $80 for a 60 qt. boil kettle...legally obtained. So let's be real here, keggles ARE in fact cheaper than any comparable stainless steel kettle.
 
TeufelBrew said:
If you like the DIY, make a keggle.
Click to expand...
TwoHeadsBrewing said:
You can find plenty of keggles in the scrapyard legally for <$40. If you are willing to bang out a few dents, even less. Add a weldless ball valve for another $40 and that's all you need for a boil kettle.
Click to expand...

I think these points on keggles are completely valid. My buddy sees kegs at the scrapyard all the time, and with the price of scrap so ridiculously cheap... Add some elbow grease and a few bucks you'll have a very functional piece of equipment. BUT, if DIY is not your thing, or your time is worth a lot more to you than doing the labor, maybe a fancy kettle is the way to go...

Bernie Brewer said:
You can make small batches with a large kettle, but you can't make large batches with a small one.
Click to expand...

Completely agree. Speaking from my own experience, I wanted to get a bigger kettle when I started, but the store I was shopping at didn't have anything larger and I was impatient... So I ended up with a 16qt. Worked great, but 6 months later I was building a keggle...

There's lots of good debate going on here, and GOOCHY, I hope that this helps you develop a better idea of what will work best for particular needs/wants! Good luck!:mug:
 
remilard said:
Kegs are not cheaper than kettles if you are comparing a new product vs a new product. They are not reliably that much cheaper used if they are obtained legally.

So lets compare stolen kegs to stolen kettles or not compare them at all.
Click to expand...

TwoHeadsBrewing said:
That's the most ridiculous thing I've ever heard said about keggles. You can find plenty of keggles in the scrapyard legally for <$40. If you are willing to bang out a few dents, even less. Add a weldless ball valve for another $40 and that's all you need for a boil kettle. So, $80 for a 60 qt. boil kettle...legally obtained. So let's be real here, keggles ARE in fact cheaper than any comparable stainless steel kettle.
Click to expand...

I have to side with remilard here, although I do understand it is regional. I have never been able to find a scrap yard here selling kegs. They do not accept them because they realize that they would have a huge theft problem on their hands id they did. Some areas are different. For me, I could get a legally obtained keg, but it would be a significant hassle, or would be expensive.

I obtained my kegs illegally before knowing it was illegal. I wish I had known, but the liquor store just sold them to me with full knowledge of what I was using them for, so I assumed it was legit... not the case.

For many people, it is not easy to obtain a legal keg (and have it be cheap).
 
Boerderij_Kabouter said:
I have to side with remilard here, although I do understand it is regional. I have never been able to find a scrap yard here selling kegs. They do not accept them because they realize that they would have a huge theft problem on their hands id they did. Some areas are different. For me, I could get a legally obtained keg, but it would be a significant hassle, or would be expensive.

I obtained my kegs illegally before knowing it was illegal. I wish I had known, but the liquor store just sold them to me with full knowledge of what I was using them for, so I assumed it was legit... not the case.

For many people, it is not easy to obtain a legal keg (and have it be cheap).
Click to expand...

Well I've never heard of keggles being hard to find at a scrap yard. However, the scrap yard around here IS right across the street from sierra nevada! They typically have a ton of old decomissioned SN kegs. You used to be able to get the kegs direct from the brewery for $30 or less, but SN stopped that a while ago. I wonder what you could find if you looked at some breweries close by, it wouldn't hurt to ask. Then again, like a previous poster said...if you don't like to DIY then a keggle isn't really an option. For me, DIY is the whole reason I got into homebrewing...why buy it when you can make it just as good for less money?
 
GOOCHY said:
How hard was it to put the spigot on an Aluminum pot? I'd be willing to try it if it isn't too difficult.
Click to expand...

Easy especially if you have the proper tools. I used an almost brand new step bit (was very sharp), corded drill, and some cutting oil and it went through it like butter. Had to clean up the hole with some sand paper and a file but it came out great.
 
TwoHeadsBrewing said:
Well I've never heard of keggles being hard to find at a scrap yard. However, the scrap yard around here IS right across the street from sierra nevada! They typically have a ton of old decomissioned SN kegs. You used to be able to get the kegs direct from the brewery for $30 or less, but SN stopped that a while ago. I wonder what you could find if you looked at some breweries close by, it wouldn't hurt to ask. Then again, like a previous poster said...if you don't like to DIY then a keggle isn't really an option. For me, DIY is the whole reason I got into homebrewing...why buy it when you can make it just as good for less money?
Click to expand...

Ah HA! I knew it. :D I know keggles can be much cheaper (I have three after all). It is just that now that I know, I don't think it is right to get them in sketch ways, which around me at least, seems to be the only way.

I bet the OP didn't know what kind of can of worms he was opening when he asked that one :D lol
 
Boerderij_Kabouter said:
Ah HA! I knew it. :D I know keggles can be much cheaper (I have three after all). It is just that now that I know, I don't think it is right to get them in sketch ways, which around me at least, seems to be the only way.

I bet the OP didn't know what kind of can of worms he was opening when he asked that one :D lol
Click to expand...

Haha! Yeah, with the whole keggle vs. kettle thing in the bag...let's now move on to Stainless vs. Aluminum! And after that, glass vs. plastic...
 
I have several large kettles. I think 60qt is really too small for an AG 10 gallon batch. You'll do better with an 80qt for that. You'd think- ' I could do a 15 gallon batch with an 80qt kettle.' Not so easy.

The problem is (to state the obvious) is boiling down and having enough clearance to do the boil vigorously without it slopping over. You'd think 60qt would be big enough to do a 10g batch right? But figure approx 2-3 gallons of boil-off and you're starting with wort just below the rim. Plus the wort will expand. Sticky mess and lots of hovering over the kettle to ensure everything behaves. I'd rather be able to step away for a moment and not worry.

Aluminum is cheap and easy. I'm fixing to drill out my 80qt... hehe...
 
Boerderij_Kabouter said:
Radtek, you should look into Fermcap-S drops. They inhibit boilovers and are a godsend.

10g batches in a 15g kettle are not a problem if you use that stuff.
Click to expand...

Speaking of this, I just added it to the fermenter after pitching for the first time (I use a fan for boilovers) and I found that it was a frozen sludge! It says on the bottle to keep refrigerated. I think next time I'll pull it from the fridge early to let it soften up.
 
I do use them... and they do work amazingly well.

I'm not saying a brewer can't squeeze out 10g batch from a 15g kettle. It's the initial 30 minutes of the boil that can make things a little dicey. I'm thinking hassle free. Ideally I want a kettle a brewer can turn their back on. I think the OP will see what I'm talking about after a few 10g sessions with a 60qt. My recommendation is to spring for the 80qt and the drops aren't even needed.

I learned the hard way its better off to go a little bigger initially and have no regrets and another purchase. It's how I ended up with a 25qt (useless), a 40qt and an 80qt as I graduated from extract to all grain brewing. Looking for a 160qt eventually... Haw haw I though the 80qt would do 15g AG batches easily. Not...

Still, most important is to RDWHAHB...!
 
TwoHeadsBrewing said:
That's the most ridiculous thing I've ever heard said about keggles. You can find plenty of keggles in the scrapyard legally for <$40. If you are willing to bang out a few dents, even less. Add a weldless ball valve for another $40 and that's all you need for a boil kettle. So, $80 for a 60 qt. boil kettle...legally obtained. So let's be real here, keggles ARE in fact cheaper than any comparable stainless steel kettle.
Click to expand...

Bargainfittings.com has weldless spigots and sight gauges for $19 each. Factor in shipping, it's $50 for both and a couple hours of time.
 
Boerderij_Kabouter said:
I have to side with remilard here, although I do understand it is regional. I have never been able to find a scrap yard here selling kegs. They do not accept them because they realize that they would have a huge theft problem on their hands id they did. Some areas are different. For me, I could get a legally obtained keg, but it would be a significant hassle, or would be expensive.
Click to expand...

There are guys on the Chicago/Milwaukee board trading, swapping or giving away kegs every so often. Not to mention, if you're involved with a homebrew club, you'll often find people giving away or swapping equipment.
 
Boerderij_Kabouter said:
Radtek, you should look into Fermcap-S drops. They inhibit boilovers and are a godsend.

10g batches in a 15g kettle are not a problem if you use that stuff.
Click to expand...

They are if you do 11 gallon batches and boil off 3+ gallons in an hour.;) That's why I have a 15 gallon pot for single batches and a 20 gallon for doubles.
 
Boerderij_Kabouter said:
I have to side with remilard here, although I do understand it is regional. I have never been able to find a scrap yard here selling kegs. They do not accept them because they realize that they would have a huge theft problem on their hands id they did. Some areas are different.
Click to expand...

I know a guy that works as a dispatcher at the local scrapyard. They have stopped accepting kegs years ago because people were turning them in to the scrapyard instead of returning them to the beer depots. They were getting so much more in scrap price than the deposit, they were basically drinking the beer for free.
 
Boerderij_Kabouter said:
No you cannot taste the difference between wort made with a keggle and a Blichmann, but the user knows which he/she used and how enjoyable the experience was.

Also BrewBeemer, you continue to forgot that 99.99999% of the population does not have a full machine shop and infinite stainless stock sitting in their garage. To legally obtain a keg, all the stainless fittings, nice thermometer, sight glass with a protective cage, and a three piece ball valve, you are paying less tan $100 to upgrade to the Blichmann. It is worth it IMHO.

Others will differ and mention that they have done keggles for $20. This is true. But it will not have all the features, and will MOST likely not have been legally obtained.
Click to expand...

I have friends that own rental units they come up with kegs at times and give them to me. I have turned then turned then in if they are the same brand that the bier distriburtorship I know delivers. I will drop the keg or kegs off free. I have been rewarded by them for this way more than if I just kept them as they remember me by first name.
 
Boerderij_Kabouter said:
No you cannot taste the difference between wort made with a keggle and a Blichmann, but the user knows which he/she used and how enjoyable the experience was.

Also BrewBeemer, you continue to forgot that 99.99999% of the population does not have a full machine shop and infinite stainless stock sitting in their garage. To legally obtain a keg, all the stainless fittings, nice thermometer, sight glass with a protective cage, and a three piece ball valve, you are paying less tan $100 to upgrade to the Blichmann. It is worth it IMHO.

Others will differ and mention that they have done keggles for $20. This is true. But it will not have all the features, and will MOST likely not have been legally obtained.
Click to expand...

In my area I have gone directly to the bier supply yard (previous reply) the 5th wheel bier drivers come from. I have purchased damaged kegs, a bashed bottom skirt plus another with the top skirt bashed for $15 each legally with a receipt as "out of service" is a perfect pair of kegs. They have also sold me off brand name kegs that were in great shape for $20 each. These also with papers as damaged with many times no money paid or a receipt. With the two damaged kegs this is perfect especially if they are the same brand hence same diameter so I can cut and butt weld the two together for taller keggles of 23 gallon volume. Fittings are cheap even if you go weldless which isn't me I weld 'em. This still is way cheaper than any manufactured units. Money is why they are in business just not my money. Maybe some people are not a DIY type of person, can not weld or not have the equipment to do so. I find this sad as the rewards are great with DIY projects thru out life. As far as looks I don't care as they get fully insulated. I rather brew bier than have a shiny trophy piece, that would be against the grain with me besides others that know me, they know i'm not foolish with my money when it can fabricate at the shop. To each his or her own. Do what makes you happy as long as the reward is a homebrew at the end.
Now I can go to the Berkeley campus during a football game and collect kegs for free, this would be wrong and not my style of operation.
 
Yeesh. I was just saying. The guy has zero batches done so far he might do well to learn on something small. If I had started with a 10 full boil gallon system on my first go, I'd have major boilover stains on my garage floor and about 20 gallons of off-tasting beer.

A lot of learning about brew process and science comes from the limitations of our initial methods and equipment. Extract, PM, AG batch, AG fly, PHD in Astrophysics, then Decoction. It's just the natural progression of learning. And learning about extract/topoff is just as important as the hop over to extract full boil, IMO.

Plus, at zero batches it's tough to recommend a guy go spend a few bills on a stainless 15g kettle with brewmom/valve. It's a hobby, but it takes a good deal of time and effort and some people don't always stick to it. I'd rather he be stuck with a 15 dollar paperweight than some expensive monstrosity of a brew kettle if he ever chooses to stop brewing.

My 2 cents.
 
Hikeon3 said:
Yeesh. I was just saying. The guy has zero batches done so far he might do well to learn on something small. If I had started with a 10 full boil gallon system on my first go, I'd have major boilover stains on my garage floor and about 20 gallons of off-tasting beer.

A lot of learning about brew process and science comes from the limitations of our initial methods and equipment. Extract, PM, AG batch, AG fly, PHD in Astrophysics, then Decoction. It's just the natural progression of learning. And learning about extract/topoff is just as important as the hop over to extract full boil, IMO.

Plus, at zero batches it's tough to recommend a guy go spend a few bills on a stainless 15g kettle with brewmom/valve. It's a hobby, but it takes a good deal of time and effort and some people don't always stick to it. I'd rather he be stuck with a 15 dollar paperweight than some expensive monstrosity of a brew kettle if he ever chooses to stop brewing.

My 2 cents.
Click to expand...

It's a good point if someone isn't serious about brewing. However, I personally know two people who have NEVER done an extract or PM batch of homebrew. They were shown from the beginning by friends how to brew All Grain, and the equipment necessary. I'm certainly not saying this is normal, but there is nothing wrong with it and they make great beer. There is no requirement at all to invest in equipment you will outgrow in a few months. And starting with extract contributes nothing to the learning process that reading a few books can't teach. I found it useful for me, but then I'm a pretty careful person and I like to test the water before I jump in.

I know some people like to step up over time...but still others like to jump in with both feet and not fool around. They want to buy the equipment once, get the right stuff, and get the equipment they will be happy with for years to come. I don't know what kind of person the OP is, but if they want to make a purchase that will serve them well for many years it's worth it to drop some cash on good equipment.
 
Hikeon3 good points; however a better recommendation may have been then "do some 2.5 gallon batches" which requires a very small pot and "beg,borrow, steal" a pot if you do not own a pot this size already.

Then to the OP, if you decide you do actually enjoy brewing, H@!! yes buy the biggest pot you can afford the first time.
 
x2 Twoheads..

I have never done anything but All Grain brewing. Because I inherited some equipment, my startup cost for AG was really the $20 for my 5g igloo, $10 for my ss braid, and about $25 for my weldless ball valve setup.

I am still doing split boils with my inherited 24qt pot, and when I find sankes locally, that is what I will be buying. No middle ground pot for me either.

With proper study/research extract, full boil extract, pm, ag does not have to be "the" learning process.

TwoHeadsBrewing said:
It's a good point if someone isn't serious about brewing. However, I personally know two people who have NEVER done an extract or PM batch of homebrew. They were shown from the beginning by friends how to brew All Grain, and the equipment necessary. I'm certainly not saying this is normal, but there is nothing wrong with it and they make great beer. There is no requirement at all to invest in equipment you will outgrow in a few months. And starting with extract contributes nothing to the learning process that reading a few books can't teach. I found it useful for me, but then I'm a pretty careful person and I like to test the water before I jump in.

I know some people like to step up over time...but still others like to jump in with both feet and not fool around. They want to buy the equipment once, get the right stuff, and get the equipment they will be happy with for years to come. I don't know what kind of person the OP is, but if they want to make a purchase that will serve them well for many years it's worth it to drop some cash on good equipment.
Click to expand...
 
you can't go wrong with a turkey fryer. worst case you use it as a turkey fryer down the road. it was the best $50 i have spent.

I'm currently doing 11G batches in a 60qt Al pot, you have to be very careful but it can definitely be done. I use the turkey fryer pot to heat my water it has worked well for me, Well both AG batches I have done. Good Luck
 

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Converting to 3 Kettle Advice
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