My new Whirlpool
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phoenixs4r
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I used a stainless steel mud mixer once. It frothed up the wort like crazy and still didn't create a nice cone. Its now my mash mixer.
logdrum
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That's more like a donut-erator isn't it?
To settle trub in the middle of the kettle so you can pull liquid (mostly) only from the side and leave trub in the kettle
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Cranny04
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It creates a cone of trub in the middle of the kettle. That way I can collect my wort from the side and not get all of the trub in my fermenter.
Or at least that is the idea
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Cranny04
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You really should think twice about this. Stirring hot wort so vigorously will potentially saturate your wort with O2 and thus introduces significant risk of infection / off-flavors. That is why commercial breweries don't do it this way. You'd be better of stirring with a spoon for a few minutes or doing it the recirc way.
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Cranny04
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Saturate my wort with O2 will cause infection?
From How to Brew - section 6.9.3:
You should not aerate when the wort is hot, or even warm. Aeration of hot wort will cause the oxygen to chemically bind to various wort compounds. Over time, these compounds will break down, freeing atomic oxygen back into the beer where it can oxidize the alcohols and hop compounds producing off-flavors and aromas like wet cardboard or sherry-like flavors. The generally accepted temperature cutoff for preventing hot wort oxidation is 80°F.
Oxidation of your wort can happen in several ways. The first is by splashing or aerating the wort while it is hot. Other beginning-brewing books advocate pouring the hot wort after the boil into cold water in the fermenter to cool it and add oxygen for the yeast. Unfortunately the wort may still be hot enough to oxidize when it picks up oxygen from the splashing. Pouring it down the side of the bucket to minimize splashing doesn't really help either since this increases the surface area of the wort exposed to the air. Thus it is important to cool the wort rapidly to below 80°F to prevent oxidation, and then aerate it to provide the dissolved oxygen that the yeast need. Cooling rapidly between 90 and 140°F is important because this temperature region is ideal for bacterial growth to establish itself in the wort.
You should not aerate when the wort is hot, or even warm. Aeration of hot wort will cause the oxygen to chemically bind to various wort compounds. Over time, these compounds will break down, freeing atomic oxygen back into the beer where it can oxidize the alcohols and hop compounds producing off-flavors and aromas like wet cardboard or sherry-like flavors. The generally accepted temperature cutoff for preventing hot wort oxidation is 80°F.
Oxidation of your wort can happen in several ways. The first is by splashing or aerating the wort while it is hot. Other beginning-brewing books advocate pouring the hot wort after the boil into cold water in the fermenter to cool it and add oxygen for the yeast. Unfortunately the wort may still be hot enough to oxidize when it picks up oxygen from the splashing. Pouring it down the side of the bucket to minimize splashing doesn't really help either since this increases the surface area of the wort exposed to the air. Thus it is important to cool the wort rapidly to below 80°F to prevent oxidation, and then aerate it to provide the dissolved oxygen that the yeast need. Cooling rapidly between 90 and 140°F is important because this temperature region is ideal for bacterial growth to establish itself in the wort.
Berniep
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Sure but then how do you explain the success of no cool brewers who let their wort cool overnight.
You could always cool the wort before you whirlpool?
But that doesn't really accomplish what you want when whirlpooling. With the mixer you are creating a hole on the middle of the trub and not pulling it away from the sides of the FV..
I think you'll find loads of people on these forums that would dispute the hot side aeration risk...passionately. For myself the key to a good whirlpool trub cone is allow plenty of time (20ish mins) after you've whirlpooled before you transfer to your fermenter.
ClaudiusB
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Cranny04
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I'm not really worried about HSA...
But I'm planning on running the drill in reverse while cooling... When I tested it with my IC in the pot going in reverse worked better... Going forward seemed to only move the water inside the coil...
But I'm planning on running the drill in reverse while cooling... When I tested it with my IC in the pot going in reverse worked better... Going forward seemed to only move the water inside the coil...
smakudwn
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This is what i have found. I do use the paint mixer to stir my mash and i also use it at the end of the boil with the IC running. I keep the drill running at low speed so the wort is not frothing. It mainly just moves the wort around the IC to help cool faster. I have never gotten a cone of tub using it.
phoenixs4r
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Cranny04 said:
Was until my braid got caught in it when I was whirlpooling the mash! Major fail there! Lol. I want my false bottom back
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