need help with going from extract to partial mash.

Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum

Help Support Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

justin88

Member
Joined
Feb 22, 2012
Messages
17
Reaction score
0
Location
sioux falls
Hi I'm new to here and brewing, and hope someone can help me out. I have done 2 extract brews the first one I did was an ipa which turned out pretty good. And the second one is a lager that is still in the primary right now. But I was wondering how exactly do I go from extract brewing to doing a partial mash brew. If any could help me out with the details of it, I would greatly appreciate it thanks.

Justin
 
Justin,

When I did my first partial mash I wanted to try something that was difficult to accomplish with extract only, so I chose a Dry Stout. I didn't want to purchase any additional equipment but I wanted to try fly sparging rather than brew in a bag, so I used a combination of my 5 gal kettle and my bottling bucket for mashing.

Process was simple. I preheat my oven to the lowest temperature in allowed - 170. I placed a 5 gallon paint strainer bag in my brew kettle and brought mash water up to strike temperature in it on the stovetop. When at temperature, I stirred in the grain and transferred to the oven. By removing every 15 minutes to check temperature, the oven held step temperature even though it was set hotter (having an internal oven thermometer helped.)

While mashing, I heated water for sparging in a second pot. When the mash step time was complete, I placed my bottling bucket on a chair, removed the kettle from the oven and carefully transferred the paint strainer bag with grain to the bottling bucket. I placed a small colander over the grain to avoid channeling and slowly poured in the wort.

I then put the kettle on the floor just below the bottling bucket spigot and slowly drew off a couple of quarts (vorlauf) and carefully poured back into the bucket.

To sparge, I just opened the spigot to a trickle and used a 2 cup measuring cup to scoop water from the pot on the stove and pour gently into the bucket when the water level dropped to keep the water level above the grain. I didn't use the colander when sparging, I just trickled the water out of the cup moving it around to avoid channeling.

After collecting the appropriate amount of water for my recipe, it just became an extract boil.

This was also the first brew where I attempted water correction using salts, "Dublinizing" RO water by adding salts to the grain prior to placing them in the brew kettle for mashing.

My results were outstanding - much better than I expected. I came in just below estimated OG and hit 69% efficiency. More importantly, the beer was better than many commercial stouts. The process was easy and enjoyable. After this one session I knew I'd move to all grain quickly, so I built an MLT and HLT and used them on my next couple of partial mash brews rather than using the "kettle in the oven" process. That said, kettle in the oven was easier and the results were as good, so it's a fine process if you don't plan to move to all grain.

Good luck, and let us know how it turns out.
 
Justin,

When I did my first partial mash I wanted to try something that was difficult to accomplish with extract only, so I chose a Dry Stout. I didn't want to purchase any additional equipment but I wanted to try fly sparging rather than brew in a bag, so I used a combination of my 5 gal kettle and my bottling bucket for mashing.

Process was simple. I preheat my oven to the lowest temperature in allowed - 170. I placed a 5 gallon paint strainer bag in my brew kettle and brought mash water up to strike temperature in it on the stovetop. When at temperature, I stirred in the grain and transferred to the oven. By removing every 15 minutes to check temperature, the oven held step temperature even though it was set hotter (having an internal oven thermometer helped.)

While mashing, I heated water for sparging in a second pot. When the mash step time was complete, I placed my bottling bucket on a chair, removed the kettle from the oven and carefully transferred the paint strainer bag with grain to the bottling bucket. I placed a small colander over the grain to avoid channeling and slowly poured in the wort.

I then put the kettle on the floor just below the bottling bucket spigot and slowly drew off a couple of quarts (vorlauf) and carefully poured back into the bucket.

To sparge, I just opened the spigot to a trickle and used a 2 cup measuring cup to scoop water from the pot on the stove and pour gently into the bucket when the water level dropped to keep the water level above the grain. I didn't use the colander when sparging, I just trickled the water out of the cup moving it around to avoid channeling.

After collecting the appropriate amount of water for my recipe, it just became an extract boil.

This was also the first brew where I attempted water correction using salts, "Dublinizing" RO water by adding salts to the grain prior to placing them in the brew kettle for mashing.

My results were outstanding - much better than I expected. I came in just below estimated OG and hit 69% efficiency. More importantly, the beer was better than many commercial stouts. The process was easy and enjoyable. After this one session I knew I'd move to all grain quickly, so I built an MLT and HLT and used them on my next couple of partial mash brews rather than using the "kettle in the oven" process. That said, kettle in the oven was easier and the results were as good, so it's a fine process if you don't plan to move to all grain.

Good luck, and let us know how it turns out.

Great write-up!

To the OP:

As they say, there's more than one way to skin a cat - the above-quoted method will work for sure, and so will the method described in the link to Deathbrewer's guide.

Poke around here for a while and see which way will work for you with the least amount of additional equipment/stress. I think you'll quickly find that you can make the switch to partial mash with very little additional effort on your end, but it will greatly open up the amount of styles you can brew.
 
Yeah I know a lager is a harder brew to do but figured id give it a try. I've got a fridge set up with a temp controller to do the lagering process.its been in the primary for a week now at 56 degrees. And thank u everyone for the help and I don't know what kind of beer to do for this partial mash any ideas or good recipes
 
Yeah I know a lager is a harder brew to do but figured id give it a try. I've got a fridge set up with a temp controller to do the lagering process.its been in the primary for a week now at 56 degrees. And thank u everyone for the help and I don't know what kind of beer to do for this partial mash any ideas or good recipes

You can do ANY style with a partial mash, from an oatmeal stout to a Belgian triple. Whatever you want to drink.

We can help you convert any extract or all-grain recipe to a partial mash, so you could browse the recipe database here on the forum and see what sounds good to you.
 
EdWort's recipes are all pure, unadulterated killer. I say give his Pale Ale a shot:

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f66/bee-cave-brewery-haus-pale-ale-31793/

Just substitute in 4 lbs. of light dme and reduce the two-row to 2 lbs. That will give you:

4 lbs. light DME
2 lbs. two row
2 lbs. vienna
0.5 lb. Crystal 10L

Otherwise, follow the recipe to a T, and you will have yourself a might tasty pale ale.
 
Ok this is what I came up with was wondering everyone else's thoughts were.

Dead guy clone by yooper

1# cara Munich
1# Munich
.5# crystal 40L

Steep at 155 for 30 min. Sparge with .5 gallons at 170 then bring to a boil.

4# alexanders pale LME
4# LDME
( or substitute all XLDME)

1 oz perle 60 min.
.25 oz perle 30 min.
.25 oz perle 5 min
.25 oz saaz. 5 min.

1 tap Irish moss 15 min

Pacman yeast or 1055 ( American ale yeast)

Og: 1.066
Fg: 1.018
 
I think it looks fine, should be malty. If you can I would sparge with a bit more water. maybe 2 gal if you get your temps right. Make it easy for your first one. Put the grain in a bag and just cover with water. bring it up to 155' for your 30 min. Pull the bag out hold it over your kettle (don't squeeze) and slowly scoop and pour your 170' sparge water over it for 10 or 15 min. add the rest of your water and dme/lme and start your boil! (some people add dme/lme in the last 15 min) after you do a few work into a mini mash and lauter tun type setup. Just my $.2
 
Ok that sounds pretty good i don't have a mash ton yet but planing on making one out of a water cooler. I like dead guy but I want just a bit more bite to it, what would I have to do to get the ibu up a bit more? And if I did bring up the ibu a bit more would that really mess up the beer?
 
Ok that sounds pretty good i don't have a mash ton yet but planing on making one out of a water cooler. I like dead guy but I want just a bit more bite to it, what would I have to do to get the ibu up a bit more? And if I did bring up the ibu a bit more would that really mess up the beer?

Yes- because Dead Guy is a malt bomb. You can certainly increase the hops and bittering, but then it wouldn't be a "maibock style ale" (what Rogue says about it) and it would totally change the balance of the beer.

You can easily steep the grains in a bag in your brewpot, since there aren't that many of them. You won't need a mash tun. If you can't find Alexander's pale malt, that's ok you can use any pale LME or even DME (3 pounds of DME).
 
Yes, I totally agree with Yooper on everything. However I also like Justin's idea because brewing at home is about brewing what you want. If you want a dead guy with a little more bite, BREW IT! It may not be a dead guy clone anymore however if its what you want that's all that matters!
 
Back
Top