- Recipe Type
- Extract
- Yeast
- 1 pkg Windsor ale yeast
- Batch Size (Gallons)
- 5
- Original Gravity
- 1.047
- Final Gravity
- 1.015
- Boiling Time (Minutes)
- 40.00
- Primary Fermentation (# of Days & Temp)
- 4 Weeks, 68
- Tasting Notes
- This is a great Ale
CANADIAN ALE
5 lbs Light unhopped malt extract
1 lbs Corn Syrup
2.5 lbs 6-Row malted barley
1/2 lb CaraPils malted barley
1 oz Clusters hops (bittering)
1/2 oz Cascade hops (flavoring)
1/2 oz Cascade hops (finishing)
1 pkg Water Crystals
1 pkg Windsor ale yeast
3/4 cups corn sugar (priming)
1) PREPARING THE EQUIPMENT
Before brewing the beer, the equipment must be cleaned, sanitized and rinsed. Sanitized does not mean sterilized. Sanitization is simply following good cleaning and cooking techniques to minimize contamination. The objective of sanitization is to minimize unwanted bacteria to make sure that the brewing yeast dominates the process.
A. WASH the equipment in warm water using any kitchen dishwashing detergent.
B. SANITIZE the equipment by immersing it in a sanitizing solution made from B-T-F sanitizers. Follow the instructions on the package to prepare the sanitizing solution. Note that a VERY dilute solution of bleach can be used as a sanitizer, however, this is not recommended since any residual bleach will give the beer an off flavor.
C. RINSE the equipment with clear water to remove any traces of the sanitizing solution.
Cleaning the equipment in an automatic dishwasher will wash, sanitize and rinse the equipment.
2) BREWING THE WORT
Wort is a mixture of water, grain, malt extract and hops that is ready for the fermentation process.
1. Bring 2 3 gallons of water to boil in the cooking pot
2. Add the water crystals and grains - Water crystals are used to add minerals to filtered water. They are not needed with standard tap water.
3. Add the bittering hops
4. Boil for 20 minutes - Prepare your extract by setting the bucket or package in hot water to warm the extract and make it easier to poor.
5. Remove pot from heat and stir vigorously while adding the extract - Note: stirring prevents the extract from dropping to the bottom and burning
6. Return pot to heat - Boil for 10 minutes
7. Add the flavoring hops - Boil for 10 minutes
8. Remove from heat - Add the finishing hops
9. Cool the wort in a water filled sink
10. Siphon or strain the wort into the fermenting vessel
11. Fill the fermenter to five gallons with water
12. Note: If you plan to bottle your beer you may want to measure and record the specific gravity of the wort using a hydrometer. This can be useful in determining the end of the fermentation process and prevent the bottles from breaking during the carbonation step.
13. Follow the directions on the back of your yeast packet before adding to the wort.
3) FERMENTATION
Adding the yeast to the wort begins the fermentation process. Please read the directions on the back of your yeast packet carefully to ensure that the yeast is viable. The yeast can be added when the temperature of the wort is less than 90 F.
Dried yeast packets
The packets of dried yeast are prepared by dissolving the contents of the packet in 1/2 cup of warm water. This step should be performed about 15-20 minutes before adding the yeast to the wort. The yeast should dissolve in the warm water and create a beige foam after several minutes. The foam indicates that the yeast is active. If the yeast is active the solution can be added to the wort. Seal the fermenter with a tight fitting lid or cap, put water in the air lock and attach it to the fermenter.
A) Single stage fermentation
Fermentation begins as soon as the yeast is added to the wort. The yeast breaks down simple sugars in the wort and produces alcohol and carbon dioxide. The carbon dioxide is vented through the air lock. You should notice a vigorous bubbling through the air lock within hours of adding the yeast although we have seen certain strains of yeast take as long as 48 hours to kick off. If this bubbling does not appear to start, check to see that the lid and airlock fit tightly to the fermenter. In rare cases the yeast may be inactive. If the yeast is inactive you will need to prepare and add another batch of yeast.
Most of the fermentation process occurs within the first 3 or 4 days. You will notice that the bubbling slows down and stops after about 7 to 10 days. At this point you can check the specific gravity of the beer. If it is below 1.015 you can proceed to the bottling or kegging step. Above 1.015 you should either let it ferment longer in the primary fermenter or transfer it to a secondary fermenter.
B) Two stage fermentation
You may want to transfer the wort to a secondary fermenter after the 7 to 10 day time period. The beer is transferred from the primary fermenter to the secondary fermenter using a siphon hose and gravity. Arrange the two vessels so that the top of the receiving vessel is below the bottom of the fermenter. Insert a siphon hose or tube to within about 1 of the bottom of the fermenter. Start the siphoning action and allow gravity to draw the beer into the receiving vessel. Be careful to draw as little of the sediment from the bottom of the fermenter as possible. The sediment wont hurt the beer but can make it cloudy. The beer can remain in the secondary fermenter for several weeks before kegging or bottling. After transferring the beer to the secondary fermenter you will notice that the beer begins to bubble again.
You can use the hydrometer to determine when the specific gravity stops changing. Another indicator is that the beer goes from cloudy to clear as the sediment drops to the bottom of the fermenter.
5 lbs Light unhopped malt extract
1 lbs Corn Syrup
2.5 lbs 6-Row malted barley
1/2 lb CaraPils malted barley
1 oz Clusters hops (bittering)
1/2 oz Cascade hops (flavoring)
1/2 oz Cascade hops (finishing)
1 pkg Water Crystals
1 pkg Windsor ale yeast
3/4 cups corn sugar (priming)
1) PREPARING THE EQUIPMENT
Before brewing the beer, the equipment must be cleaned, sanitized and rinsed. Sanitized does not mean sterilized. Sanitization is simply following good cleaning and cooking techniques to minimize contamination. The objective of sanitization is to minimize unwanted bacteria to make sure that the brewing yeast dominates the process.
A. WASH the equipment in warm water using any kitchen dishwashing detergent.
B. SANITIZE the equipment by immersing it in a sanitizing solution made from B-T-F sanitizers. Follow the instructions on the package to prepare the sanitizing solution. Note that a VERY dilute solution of bleach can be used as a sanitizer, however, this is not recommended since any residual bleach will give the beer an off flavor.
C. RINSE the equipment with clear water to remove any traces of the sanitizing solution.
Cleaning the equipment in an automatic dishwasher will wash, sanitize and rinse the equipment.
2) BREWING THE WORT
Wort is a mixture of water, grain, malt extract and hops that is ready for the fermentation process.
1. Bring 2 3 gallons of water to boil in the cooking pot
2. Add the water crystals and grains - Water crystals are used to add minerals to filtered water. They are not needed with standard tap water.
3. Add the bittering hops
4. Boil for 20 minutes - Prepare your extract by setting the bucket or package in hot water to warm the extract and make it easier to poor.
5. Remove pot from heat and stir vigorously while adding the extract - Note: stirring prevents the extract from dropping to the bottom and burning
6. Return pot to heat - Boil for 10 minutes
7. Add the flavoring hops - Boil for 10 minutes
8. Remove from heat - Add the finishing hops
9. Cool the wort in a water filled sink
10. Siphon or strain the wort into the fermenting vessel
11. Fill the fermenter to five gallons with water
12. Note: If you plan to bottle your beer you may want to measure and record the specific gravity of the wort using a hydrometer. This can be useful in determining the end of the fermentation process and prevent the bottles from breaking during the carbonation step.
13. Follow the directions on the back of your yeast packet before adding to the wort.
3) FERMENTATION
Adding the yeast to the wort begins the fermentation process. Please read the directions on the back of your yeast packet carefully to ensure that the yeast is viable. The yeast can be added when the temperature of the wort is less than 90 F.
Dried yeast packets
The packets of dried yeast are prepared by dissolving the contents of the packet in 1/2 cup of warm water. This step should be performed about 15-20 minutes before adding the yeast to the wort. The yeast should dissolve in the warm water and create a beige foam after several minutes. The foam indicates that the yeast is active. If the yeast is active the solution can be added to the wort. Seal the fermenter with a tight fitting lid or cap, put water in the air lock and attach it to the fermenter.
A) Single stage fermentation
Fermentation begins as soon as the yeast is added to the wort. The yeast breaks down simple sugars in the wort and produces alcohol and carbon dioxide. The carbon dioxide is vented through the air lock. You should notice a vigorous bubbling through the air lock within hours of adding the yeast although we have seen certain strains of yeast take as long as 48 hours to kick off. If this bubbling does not appear to start, check to see that the lid and airlock fit tightly to the fermenter. In rare cases the yeast may be inactive. If the yeast is inactive you will need to prepare and add another batch of yeast.
Most of the fermentation process occurs within the first 3 or 4 days. You will notice that the bubbling slows down and stops after about 7 to 10 days. At this point you can check the specific gravity of the beer. If it is below 1.015 you can proceed to the bottling or kegging step. Above 1.015 you should either let it ferment longer in the primary fermenter or transfer it to a secondary fermenter.
B) Two stage fermentation
You may want to transfer the wort to a secondary fermenter after the 7 to 10 day time period. The beer is transferred from the primary fermenter to the secondary fermenter using a siphon hose and gravity. Arrange the two vessels so that the top of the receiving vessel is below the bottom of the fermenter. Insert a siphon hose or tube to within about 1 of the bottom of the fermenter. Start the siphoning action and allow gravity to draw the beer into the receiving vessel. Be careful to draw as little of the sediment from the bottom of the fermenter as possible. The sediment wont hurt the beer but can make it cloudy. The beer can remain in the secondary fermenter for several weeks before kegging or bottling. After transferring the beer to the secondary fermenter you will notice that the beer begins to bubble again.
You can use the hydrometer to determine when the specific gravity stops changing. Another indicator is that the beer goes from cloudy to clear as the sediment drops to the bottom of the fermenter.
