flame out hop addition question

I am going to invest in a wort chiller, but don't have one just now(they are heinously expensive like most brewing equipment in norway). For my first batch of all grain beer I just siphoned hot wort into the sanitized fermentor and let it chill down on its own with the lid on.
My question is:
Since the wort was hot for so long, will that effect the late addition hops that I threw in at flameout? There was a good 3 ounces of hops- cascade, amarillo, and simcoe, and I'm a bit afraid that I just added about 20 unwanted IBU's to the beer. No big deal for me, I freakin love hops, but I brewed it for a coworker as a going away present.

Yes, you just added a bunch of IBU's to your beer. The longer the wort remains near boiling temperatures the more bitterness you get from the hops, and the more aroma compounds are driven off. Until you get a wort chiller you might experiment with waiting till the beer has cooled down a bit and then adding your flame out additions.

There are some members here that do "no chill" brewing. You can read about their methods by doing a search for no chill on the forun. One of the things they contend with is the additional IBU's that end up in their finished product and I remember they compensate their recipes by reducing or shuffling certain hop additions.

Interesting topic...thanks for bringing this up.

OK, related: how hot does the wort have to be to actually be extracting IBUs vs. aroma oils from the hops? I cook on the stove top, and then take my kettle, set it in my tub in an ice bath, and aggressively swirl the water for the first 15 minutes or so. That usually gets the exterior of the kettle down to warm, and I then usually let it sit for another 45-90 minutes to get down to pitching temperature.

If I'm using this method in the future should I be not pitching flame out hops until the beer has already been in the ice bath for a few minutes?

I'm not really interested in getting a chiller at this point because the cooling method I'm using has worked fine for me, but I definitely want to be try and account for this in terms of bitter vs. aroma, as I brew many beers where high IBUs = undesirable.

edit: One alternative I just thought of...I usually just toss my hops into the wort loose and then strain them on the way into the primary. But one thing that would be obvious: using a muslin bag just for the flame out additions, letting that sit in the wort for a couple of minutes, and then removing it...would this work? I'm not familiar with the science behind bittering, is it that the oils get converted into IBUs given heat and the length of time that the physical hops stay in isn't that important? Or would this be an option?

I built my own wort chiller for about $30. Works great. It's very easy to do. You can find demonstrations on YouTube.

I saw a chart online that showed peak boiling times for bittering/aroma hops....I will try to find it and post the link. But to get the most from the bittering hops 60 minutes was the max. the aroma hops if boiled longer than 20 minutes started losing flavor...i guess maybe the flavors start melding IDk. Maybe that is one of the reasons for crash cooling? let me see if I can find that chart....

found it...
http://www.brewsupplies.com/hop_characteristics.htm

great resource thanks for the link!!!!!! I just taste tested the beer, and it is totally lacking the nose and taste I wanted, but I'm going to dry hop with centennial and hope that does the job.