Have an Arduino & R.....

I know that this is a poor start but I'm rather overwhelmed by the Strangebrew thread, so may I ask what is the simplest controller to build and how hard is it?

All I need is 1 temperature probe, step mashing and maybe pump control, nothing complex I'm even willing to plug in a laptop so I'm not messing with buttons on the Arduino.

I'm happy with the physical part of a build but my coding skills are poor so logic wise it has to be plug n play.


Atb. Aamcle

I'd say define your scope a bit clearer.... What is your physical setup and what automation would you like to do around mashing (rims?). Sounds like whatever you go with will have a learning curve. I have a cheap PLC (automation direct Click PLC) and an arduino in my setup. I would say the PLC is simpler to pick up since you don't need to actually code, but ladder logic still takes a bit of getting used to. If you've used simulink or similar apps before you should be able to pick it up pretty quick.

Arduino is probably the cheapest method of accomplishing what you want, but you will have to do some coding. If you're up for learning, there are tons of great resources for the arduino but you'll be spending your evenings blinking leds and writing Hello World prior to getting your brew up and running. I use mine as an I/O expansion card talking modbus back to my PLC since temp sensors are about $1 a piece.

Both of these solutions are completely custom, so it may not be what you're looking for. I haven't tried out any of the brewing specific options (BCS, brewtroller...), which may be a better fit for your setup.

I'm using a recirculating BIAB but may rebuild it into a GrainFather type, in both cases the pump runs continuously and all I need to control is the heating element.

So 1 probe to run the PID function and control the mash heating via a SSR is all I really need although a second probe would be nice to view the temperature in the body of the grain bed.

I have no need or desire to automate valves or measure flow and volumes so a simple setup is all I want.

I'm not keen to mess about with rotary encoders and tweeky little LCD shields, I'd prefer to simply connect a laptop to the controller and have a nice big display with easy to use controls.

I've been looking at IGSS free 50 running over Modbus but I already have most of the parts to build a Rπ/Arduino based controller and that has what I believe is the great advantage of digital temperature probes. I've had lots of consistency issues with connectors affecting PT100s.

Thanks for your help. Aamcle

I'm running igss connected to my plc, I don't think it would be too hard to get it talking to an arduino if you needed but I haven't tried. I just use igss to display the process, record data, and provide the interface to change variables. The automation is all done in the controller. I'd be happy to share what code I have or help troubleshoot igss if you're interested.

As for pt100's. I wrote my own boiler logic for my home heating system (to reduce cycling) and I've been using the cheap ebay chinese ones with the 4-20ma 'puck' transducer and the measurements have been pretty solid for over a year. I did recieve 1 that was flaky but for the price I figured there would be one out of the batch that would be doa.

Bigblock thanks for the offer of help with the code, I'll surely be taking you up on it but its going to take me some time to get that far.
I don't think I'll need a PLC as the system is only going to be active for the length of my brew day ~ 5hr or so I'm aiming to use a PC with a USB to Modbus converter.
I've managed to get the PC to talk to my PID but that's as far as I have got so far and I'm now waiting for parts from China the control box the PID is in needs repair.


Many Thanks. Aamcle

my setup is based on openArdBir system running on arduino mega, I'm now working on some interface to control it with iPad using esp8266 wifi module

I am looking to do a BrewPi setup, and I haven't coded anything in years, and then only very basic stuff. The cheap DIY BrewPi thread looks like it would work great with your RasPi and aurduino. The thread is a great walk through on setting it up without any coding.

I built a brewpi but its back in the box, I have a stc1000 running the fridge and I'm happy with it.

Aamcle

@aamcle why back in the box?

Im happy with my stc1000. there wasn't enough advantage to make it worth moving the BrewPi from a bread board to a proper enclosure.

Aamcle

Lol your confusing aamcle.

You start a thread about a mega project(building a Elsinore box) but dont want to spend an hour putting a Arduino and a power socket in an enclosure for a BrewPi?

Once I had seen it work I had no reason to take it further the STC1000's were and are doing the job.

A Strangebrew or Arbir might acctualy be useful.



Aamcle

I am with Fuzze here. If you cannot see the advantage of a brewpi over an STC then why are you starting this large project? BTW which can all be done with easier control like manual temperature readings and manually adjusting heating elements. I mean... whats the difference?

On a side note, my STC can hardly keep my keezer within 1*C of the requested temp, while my brewpi can keep the fermenting beer within .01*F of the programmed temp. Also controllable remotely, and can edit profiles on the fly.

Oh I like building things (http://www.frankenbrew.co.uk/frankenbrew-lives/) but I do expect them to earn their keep. BrewPi didn't offer much that I didn't have already.
0.01°F nice but unless you have good air circulation how do you know its representative?

I worked for years with fermentation ( not beer) and unless you stir the fermenter there will be temperature gradients so keeping the ambient temperature to the setpoint is good but.. limited.

Aamcle

Everyone that I know that uses brewpi uses a thermowell. I really hope that you did not try to blow air into your fermentation to get air to move around. Now there is a probe that detects the temp of the chamber, and there is air flow, but you really need not worry about that temperature.

I am talking about the active ferment temperature, not the air in the fermenters temp.

I use a fridge/heater/STC 1000 combo to control my fermentation temperatures. The probe which is outside the FV is taped into a bit of tube to give it a little thermal mass.

I used to fix the probe under some insulation about halfway up the FV but if the insulation is any good the air temperature in the fridge can overshoot badly.

That can cause localised hot spots for instance " angle" were the top of the liquid meets the FV wall.

It's all in hand


Atb. Aamcle

aamcle said:

I used to fix the probe under some insulation about halfway up the FV but if the insulation is any good the air temperature in the fridge can overshoot badly.

That can cause localised hot spots for instance " angle" were the top of the liquid meets the FV wall.

Click to expand...

You dont say, if only your STC1000 temperature controller had a PID algorithm to properly correct for overshoot...oh wait my mistake, thats what a BrewPi does....

SPID nice, but wait if you have a small fermentation on the go or you have squeezed a second FV in, then you retrain your PID

If you think about it the respose time of the controller, STC or otherwise is very fast compared to the rate of change of temperature in a full/half full FV so its a non issue.

I can't prove it but I wonder if PIDs (I have two) really are the super controler we home brewers tend to think they are.

For instance the GrainFather produces perfectly good mash with an on/off controler, I'm not sure if the BM uses a PID, Speidal don't mention one at all.

I'll try to do some testing this week.

Atb... Aamcle