Help with modifying water w/Bru'n Water

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DPB

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The recipe is for a simple 5.5 gallon batch of Pale Ale Recipe -7.5lbs 2 Row (2L) and 1lb Carafoam (2L)- with a 2.80 gal. mash water (really 2.75 gal. mash but Bru’n Water rounds up to 2.8 for some reason) and 7 gal. sparge water.

My goal is to get the ph level down to 5.2-5.8 range. I have never attempted to modify my water I wanted to see if I was going about this in the correct manner. It seems pretty simple I add .75 ml/gal of phosphoric acid per gallon and I am in range for my ph.

My question is will the modified water profile potentially produce a better Pale Ale than my existing? I know there are other factors at play than just ph to produce a decent brewing water (my water is pretty hard). Are there other simple straight forward modifications I should be considering/making? I don’t want to get too involved with water modifications as long as I am in the ball park in both ph and profile.

Thanks for any help.

Current profile:
Ca- 102.0
Mg- 26.0
Na- 52.0
SO4 81.0
Cl- 71.0
HCO3- 328

Total Hardness 362
Alkalinity 271
RA 183

Ph 7.4

Desired water profile for a Pale Ale is:

Ca- 165.0
Mg- 18.0
Na- 25.0
SO4- 300.0
Cl- 55.0
HCO3- 180.0

Total Hardness 487
Alkalinity 149
RA 20
Ph

When I add .75ml per gal. of phosphoric acid my finished water profile is:

Ca- 102.0
Mg- 26.0
Na- 52.0
SO4- 81.0
Cl- 71.0
HCO3- 127.8

Total Hardness 363
Alkalinity 106
RA 18

Estimated Ph 5.4
 
I've followed Martin's advice and upped my SO4 to the 200 range using gypsum. My pale ales are better for it.

I've also used the Sparge Acidification tab to acidify my sparge water with lactic acid. My efficiency seems a bit higher than before and I've reduced/eliminated the possiblity of extracting tannins in my batch sparges.
 
If you add 0.75 mL of 80% phosphoric acid per gallon to the water the pH will (assuming it was 7 originally) drop to around 5.36. Note this is the pH of the water - not the mash. This is enough to reduce the alkalinity to around 63 and the RA to around 7. The calcium, however, will go down to about 58 for a total hardness of about 252. With RA of 7 your mash pH will probably be around 5.6 - 5.7 which is marginal

These numbers are based on the assumption that calcium phosphate (apatite) will precipitate until the water is no longer saturated WRT calcium phophate i.e. is at equilibrium WRT to it. Equilibrium may or may not be reached. IOW this is a pretty complicated calculation and has to be considered approximate.

The real message is that phosphoric is probably not the best choice for water that is so hard. You would probably be better off boiling the water to drop most of the calcium and bicarb and then acidifying with phosphoric as necessary to hit mash pH. Several people are reporting success with lime treatment as well. See the thread at https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f128/treating-hard-water-lime-my-experience-296075/ on that.
 
I added 1 gram per gallon into the Bru'n Water spreadsheet it upped the Sulfate content from 81 to the 228 range. I believe the style has it closer to 300 but I'm fine with 228. Thanks for the tip.

Total hardness is 516 now and Alkalinity is 106 with the addition of the gypsum. Should I be concerned or is this an acceptable trade off? I'm still learning water chemistry and brewing, this may be incredibly out of whack I just don't realize it.
 
Ajdelange,

When I look at the spreadsheet when I entered the phosphoric acid the Alkalinity is 106 and the RA is 18, am I reading the wrong sheet/info? It is on the Water Profile Adjustment Calculator of Bru'n Water (if you are familiar).

If I am understanding you correctly, don't use phosphoric acid for such hard water. Would I be better off diluting my water with RO water? I don't want to burn through the propane and add time to the brew day boiling the water. Thanks for taking the time to answer questions I'm sure you've answered many times before.
 
When I look at the spreadsheet when I entered the phosphoric acid the Alkalinity is 106 and the RA is 18, am I reading the wrong sheet/info? It is on the Water Profile Adjustment Calculator of Bru'n Water (if you are familiar).
When Apple "improved" their operating system Excel would no longer run on it so Microsoft upgraded Excel but the upgrade won't open spreadsheets done in older versions on a PC. Therefore, I can no longer open Bru'n Water to check but I don't believe it accounts for precipitation of calcium phosphate. If you add a small amount of phosphoric acid to hard, alkaline water like yours and the hardness (calcium content) doesn't change then it isn't accounting for this effect.

If I am understanding you correctly, don't use phosphoric acid for such hard water.

I did say that but I should point out that the problem is not with phosphoric acid but rather with accurately modeling its effects. There is already a lot of phosphate in malt so adding some more will not have a detrimental effect on the flavor of the beer other than any that might be associated with stripping calcium.


Would I be better off diluting my water with RO water?

From the point of view of better predictability I'd say yes, You have hard, alkaline water and that alkalinity must be dealt with. It is more than can be handled by increasing hardness so acid is required. The options are remove it (with lime or heat) or dilute it with RO. The latter is definitely the simplest (unless you have to drive half way across the state to get RO water).


I don't want to burn through the propane and add time to the brew day boiling the water.

Lime treatment is an option but at least as much trouble as boiling.

For guys just starting out I recommend the KISS approach as set out in the Primer in this topic. As you gain experience you can move on to a more engineered approach to your water.
 
Thanks for the link, your patience and your time. It is greatly appreciated by me and I am sure for others starting out.
 
one more thing...

When could/would you use phosphoric acid? In other words what is the recommended hardness, alkalinity of the water be in order to successfuly utilize phosphoric acid?
 
Well it's not so much a question of when you can or cannot do it but rather a question of when it becomes difficult to calculate. If you took your water and softened it with lime or by boiling to the point where alkalinity and hardness were both about 50 you could add phosphoric acid to reduce the pH to 5.9 (as many do for sparging) without precipitating calcium and, in the process, reducing alkalinity to around 20.

If you wanted to use phosphoric with your untreated water you could do calculations like the ones I described, add the calculated amount of phosporic acid and then measure pH, alkalinity and calcium hardness to see if the model is good for your conditions. Some tweaking might be necessary but you should be able to hit the mash parameters you want after some experimentation.
 
So I have pretty alkaline water (186) not sure if it's "hard" so much. Last time I measured my pH during the mash it was accurate for the amount of Phosphoric acid I added and the grains used (well, it would have been accurate if I hadn't missed deleting a grain off my list in brunwater.

So how would I know that the amount of acid used is going to be accurate in Brunwater? Is the pH check good enough? How could I check alkalinity?
 
So how would I know that the amount of acid used is going to be accurate in Brunwater?

You don't.

Is the pH check good enough?

Yes, that's what it is for. Use the spreadsheet for guidance and the pH reading to verify that you are where you want to be WRT pH.

How could I check alkalinity?

If the mash pH comes out right it doesn't matter what the alkalinity is but if you want to treat water and check its post treatment alkalinity then you must either send it to a lab or obtain the materials (kit, buret, pH meter, standard strength acid, indicator...) to measure it yourself. It is a simple test. Aquarium supply stores, Hach, LaMotte and others sell test kits of varying degrees of accuracy.
 
After you have checked the mash pH on a few batches you will start to develop a sense of what to expect and will have 'calibrated' your process, acid additions etc. At this point meter checks are not so important but variability in malts will occasionally surprise you and if your water's alkalinity is widely variable that can throw you for a loop too. My personal philosophy on this is that if I am going to invest a day in brewing an extra 5 minutes to calibrate a pH meter and another 5 to take a few readings is well worth it to protect that investment.
 
For most brewers (especially new brewers), rebrewing a beer many times to figure out what they should be doing for their brewing water is out of the question. That is exactly the reason that Bru'n Water was created. The great research that Kai Troester performed with correlating malt acidity to grain type and color made that software possible. And even though there are some that deny there is any consistent correlation between malt type or their color and their acidity, my experience and that of thousands of other brewers suggests that you can rely on a fairly consistent correlation. What I have found is that there are some maltsters (Rahr) that do purposely acidify their base malt to fit their customer's needs. The other malts seem to follow Kai's findings relatively well.

So having a tool like Bru'n Water that can assess a grain bill and compare it to the brewing water and give the brewer a decent sense of where their mash pH is going to end up is very important. I know when I brew a new recipe, I don't relish the thought that I could be missing the mark badly on mash pH if I didn't have a decent predictive tool and would have to suffer through 5 gallons of less than enjoyable beer. For those of you that brew much larger batches (like a craft brew pub) where there is potentially a lot of money on the line, brewing a fair or poor batch of beer is not an option. (I recognize that anyone making that sort of investment in a batch of beer should have and use a pH meter, but sadly some brewers don't)

Bru'n Water includes some nice features that do make it possible to predict their acid additions pretty darn closely which is an important step up from the trial and error method. As anyone who has experimented with acids knows, you end up adding more and more acid and the pH does little and then you add another drop and the pH goes through the floor. Having a good predictive acid addition tool is VERY important to most brewers. As you learn about your brewing water, most brewers find that they no longer need that tool. You just know from experience what the right amount of acid per gallon or liter is. For those of you starting out in brewing or with a new water source, you're going to want that tool.

Someone with 20 plus years of brewing, an endless supply of RO water, and a tendency to brew a narrow range of beer styles should probably step back and recognize that there are other ways to achieve good brewing results. The Water Primer is a very good resource for brewers that want to improve their brewing with improvements to their brewing water. Unfortunately, not all brewers find that incorporating large quantities of RO or distilled water into their brewing regime is either practical, convenient, or cost-effective for their brewing. Bru'n Water gives brewers the opportunity to assess if their tap water can be made to suit their brewing.

On to the OP's question. That water is pretty hard and alkaline. It is ideal for either lime or boiling treatment to reduce the alkalinity and hardness. Unfortunately, either of those treatments are going to leave the Cl and SO4 a little high. High Cl and SO4 might be OK for Bitters and Pales, but not so good for softer styles. Dilution might be the only alternative in that case. The lime or boiling treatment will reduce the hardness and alkalinity to the point that phosphoric or lactic will work well without flavor effects.
 
For most brewers (especially new brewers), rebrewing a beer many times to figure out what they should be doing for their brewing water is out of the question.

A visitor to New York stops a native and asks "How do I get to Carnegie Hall?". The native answers "Practice, practice, practice!"

Unfortunately or perhaps fortunately, the only way to make very good beer is to brew, brew, brew. Brewing is cooking. You can no more expect to make a great beer by reading a book or two and then throwing some grain into your mash tun than you can expect to make a great Bearnaise sauce by watching Julia Childs do it on television and then separating some eggs. Brewing is art, what makes art art is nuance and nuance only comes with repeated refinement.

Getting the water right requires 2 things: first, getting the mash pH under control and second getting the right levels of what I call the 'stylistic ions', those that primarily effect the flavors, into line with the style requires.

Fortunately decent pH meters are now available at moderate cost. With one of those in hand it is easy to check that mash pH is where it ought to be. A brewer can go to the Primer, a spreadsheet or calculator and get guidance as to how to prepare water, make a test mash, check the pH and correct acid or base additions as necessary. Or he can check mash pH on brew day and make corrections in the mash tun.

That is exactly the reason that Bru'n Water was created.
Bru'n Water and the other spreadsheets and caclulators are fine tools for determining a starting point and especially for learning but a brewer is well advised to check mash pH as these all are based on models and all models have limitations.

The great research that Kai Troester performed with correlating malt acidity to grain type and color made that software possible.

The last thing I want to do here is appear to be criticizing Kai's work because it represents a great contribution to the homebrewing literature but anyone using it should be aware of a few things:

He used an inexpensive pH meter without ATC - one that requires manual setting of temperature through an analogue potentiometer.

He did titrations with hydrochloric acid from the hardware store and lye bought from a home brew supplier. HCl escapes from hydrochloric acid which is why hydrochloric acid isn't used for titrations (and why you need to stand back when you open a container of it). Sulfuric acid would have been a better choice and even it needs to be standardized. Lye picks up carbon dioxide from the air readily and must be frequently standardized (against standardized sulfuric,or some other, acid).

While he worked with an impressive number of malt types he did not process multiple samples of the same malt from the same maltster. I know from my own brewing logs that there can be a lot of variation.

Again, I want to make it clear that I am not trying to be critical of Kai. He did great work. One just needs to be careful about the conclusions drawn from it.

And even though there are some that deny there is any consistent correlation between malt type or their color and their acidity,...

That would be me and the denial is based on
1. My own brewing experiences
2. Kai's data.
3. Kai's recognition of the shortcomings.

He is well aware, as a good investigator should be (and that's why you can't fault him here). He doesn't publish Pearson's r for most of the fits (which is too bad) but for the one he does it is about 0.7. That's not bad but it is not good either. I wouldn't bet a lot of money on a correlation that weak.

[/QUOTE]..my experience and that of thousands of other brewers suggests that you can rely on a fairly consistent correlation.[/QUOTE]

That's the thing about weak correlations. You can rely on them most of the time but not always. T = 14.84 + 9.827*month (Jan = 1, Feb =2...) is a model of the average temperature in DC. And that's a pretty good model. In January the average is 24.7 °F, in Feb 34.6. That's seems right most of the time. Yesterday the average at my house was 52.4.

What I have found is that there are some maltsters (Rahr) that do purposely acidify their base malt to fit their customer's needs.

Well Rahr doesn't fit the model then. Can the model be improved to incorporate it? Sure. But until that is done the model has a known limitation. And I know that when I plugged data from my brewing logs into the model the results were off by .1 - .3 (IIRC - and the model was always low). Thus my brewing practices somehow represent another limitation.

The other malts seem to follow Kai's findings relatively well.

A quick fix is to caveat liberally (as some of the spreadsheets do) so that the user is aware of the limitations.

So having a tool like Bru'n Water that can assess a grain bill and compare it to the brewing water and give the brewer a decent sense of where their mash pH is going to end up is very important. I know when I brew a new recipe, I don't relish the thought that I could be missing the mark badly on mash pH if I didn't have a decent predictive tool and would have to suffer through 5 gallons of less than enjoyable beer.

You don't have to do that. Use Bru'n water or whatever tool you like and then check pH. I wouldn't risk a day's labor based on the predictions of any spreadsheet (including my own) when it is so simple to check.

For those of you that brew much larger batches (like a craft brew pub) where there is potentially a lot of money on the line, brewing a fair or poor batch of beer is not an option. (I recognize that anyone making that sort of investment in a batch of beer should have and use a pH meter, but sadly some brewers don't)

The craft brewer has the opportunity to brew, brew, brew and thus incrementally discover the proper water treatment, grist bill, hops charge... which gets him the most saleable beer. If he is riding highly variable water or highly variable materials he has potential trouble. My favorite local was taught by a man who published a paper entitled "pH, pHooey! and Bill brews according to what he was taught. I even gave him a meter at one point. At the other end of the spectrum Chico Brewing does a complete water analysis every day.


Bru'n Water includes some nice features that do make it possible to predict their acid additions pretty darn closely which is an important step up from the trial and error method.
Yes it does but I wouldn't rely on it completely. Why take a chance when it so easy to check pH?

As anyone who has experimented with acids knows, you end up adding more and more acid and the pH does little and then you add another drop and the pH goes through the floor.

I've had that happen in titrations to end points well below the lowest pK but I've never had it happen in a mash.


Having a good predictive acid addition tool is VERY important to most brewers.

I strongly advise that anyone relying on an acid addition recommended by a spreadsheet or calculator (including my own) dilute that addition in a convenient volume of water and add 1/3, check pH, add the second third etc. As noted earlier in this thread phosphoric acid becomes super acid if enough calcium is present. In acidifying to pH 5.2 a molecule of phosphoric acid delivers 1 proton if the calcium level is low. If there is enough calcium present to precipitate that moelcule it deliver 3-1/3. I'm not aware that any of the spreadsheets or calculators (again except mine) takes this into account but I could be wrong about that.


As you learn about your brewing water, most brewers find that they no longer need that tool. You just know from experience what the right amount of acid per gallon or liter is.

You will have a sense but you should still check pH as variation in materials can still cause pH variances of 0.1 or more. If you are a commercial brewer buying by the rail car and who treats his water to a standard set of parmeters then you don't need to check pH except when new lots of malt come in. OTOH perhaps 0.1 is less that one needs to worry about. I guess that's a philosophical question.


For those of you starting out in brewing or with a new water source, you're going to want that tool.

I agree. As long as the limitations are honored, preferably by measurement.

Someone with 20 plus years of brewing, an endless supply of RO water, and a tendency to brew a narrow range of beer styles should probably step back and recognize that there are other ways to achieve good brewing results.

Guess that means me again. I do. But by the same token those that promulgate the use of spreadsheets and calculators need to recognize their shortcomings and in particular as they apply to lager brewers who use RO because more and more people are reaping the benefits of doing their lagers that way.

Unfortunately, not all brewers find that incorporating large quantities of RO or distilled water into their brewing regime is either practical, convenient, or cost-effective for their brewing.
Fortunately, more and more stores are carrying RO water and RO systems are becoming cheaper and cheaper. Some people have nasty water. Temporary hardness can be eliminated easily enough but there is no way to remove sulfate (for example) other than RO (except ion exchange and you would want to do RO before that).
 
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