Easiest/Cheapest way to begin kegging

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anchorandoak

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Hello all!

So I've been lurking here for quite some time now and decided to finally ask a question that I can't find a 100% solid answer to:

I have been homebrewing for close to 4 years now, have numerous batches under my belt and am naturally sick and tired of bottling. I just can't do it anymore. I've been doing all-grain 3 gallon batches for the last year or so and I would really like to have multiple batches going at a time. I have had, at points, 2 batches going but when it comes to bottling I just can't do it anymore. The bottles are expensive, a pain to clean/sanitize, fill, cap and store. I really want to begin kegging. So my question is this:

Based on your experience(s), what is the easiest/cheapest way to begin my journey into kegging? I have tried doing some research and am more confused than anything else. Any tips would be awesome! Thanks guy!
 
I ordered the 2 keg setup from keg connection for Christmas (when they were on sale and had free shipping) - great setup. Very easy, very quick, much better than bottling. I also searched around to find deals and found cornykeg.com has the cheapest pin locks so I picked up a couple extra from them.
 
I just need to figure out what size kegs fit in what size refrigerator. I am finding some "dorm" sized fridges on craigslist for cheap, but I have no idea what will fit inside of them.

also, will kegging 3 gallons of beer in a 5 gallon keg be a problem?
 
Choose your poison... Cheers!!!
Keg Connection

Keg connection is nice but you can save a few bucks by skipping the dual guage regulator. Something like this will work just fine and you can add a manifold if you want more than one keg on tap at a time:

http://www.google.com/products/cata...or&sqi=2&cid=13347759890591377632&os=sellers#

The guage for the CO2 tank doesn't really do anything because the pressure in the CO2 tank stays consistent no matter how much CO2 is left. The only way to really tell how much Co2 is left is to weigh the tank and subtract the tare weight which is etched on every tank.

Just go with cheap cobra taps at first and skip the fancy serving tower and tap handles, you can do all that later if you wish.

Here's the kit I purchased when I started kegging: http://morebeer.com/view_product/18190/102298/Basic_Homebrew_Draft_System

Also got this to add an extra keg: http://morebeer.com/view_product/16388/102238/Gas_Manifold_-_2_Way

As I said, you can skip the dual regulator and may be able to save by buying elsewhere. Kegging is awesome, whatever system you decide to go with, you will be very happy and will wish that you did it sooner. Also, there are several easy methods to bottle right off the keg if you ever wish to take your beer anywhere. Good luck!
 
It seems expensive to get the bigger kits, but that is where you will save the most money. I built mine over the last 9mo and never thought I would end up with four taps and 5 kegs (extras are for aging/conditioning, more to come... ) and six fermenters (more to come)
 
The guage for the CO2 tank doesn't really do anything because the pressure in the CO2 tank stays consistent no matter how much CO2 is left.

That's not quite true. The tank gauge will stay constant as long as there is liquid CO2 in the tank. Once the liquid CO2 has fully evaporated into gas, then the tank gauge will drop til empty.

As for the quickest way to get started, shop around all the online retailers. Kegconnection.com gets high marks, and deservedly so, but if there's a sale going on, you might be able to score a better deal on a starter system. I was able to get a basic starter system (2 kegs, 10# tank, regulator) for a great price through Rebel Brewer by shopping around.
 
I just need to figure out what size kegs fit in what size refrigerator. I am finding some "dorm" sized fridges on craigslist for cheap, but I have no idea what will fit inside of them.

also, will kegging 3 gallons of beer in a 5 gallon keg be a problem?

Usually dorm sized fridges are too small. If you are looking for a small fridge, your options are somewhat limited. Any small fridge that has an ice maker at the top usually doesn't work. The Sanyo 4912 is the only small fridge I know of that works: http://www.frys.com/product/4622668

If you have the space, a used chest freezer or a stand-up full sized fridge are much cheaper options and you'll be thankful for the extra space later on.

Kegging 3 gallons in a five gallon keg is no problem at all. You have to purge out the outside air by pressurizing with CO2 from the tank and then operating the pressure release valve on the keg. You have to do this anyway so no problem whatsoever.
 
That's not quite true. The tank gauge will stay constant as long as there is liquid CO2 in the tank. Once the liquid CO2 has fully evaporated into gas, then the tank gauge will drop til empty.

As for the quickest way to get started, shop around all the online retailers. Kegconnection.com gets high marks, and deservedly so, but if there's a sale going on, you might be able to score a better deal on a starter system. I was able to get a basic starter system (2 kegs, 10# tank, regulator) for a great price through Rebel Brewer by shopping around.

Okay but once you reach that level you are pretty much out of gas anyway. Once the needle drops, there is less than 1/4 lb of CO2 left (even less actually, 1 CuFt of CO2, about the same as the tank, weighs 0.1144 of a pound). Really not worth the extra money for the dual IMO just to let you know that you have ~1/10th of a pound left, just pick the damn thing up (oh, and I have a dual). You will eventually just buy a back-up tank (just like most of us have back-up propane tanks).
 
so as far as carbonating my beer while it is in the keg, would I be able to force carbonate with these set ups? or would I still have to prime it as usual?
 
so as far as carbonating my beer while it is in the keg, would I be able to force carbonate with these set ups? or would I still have to prime it as usual?

Correct me if im wrong but from what ive learned it can come straight out of the fermentor to keg, then mouth!
 
well, if that's true then I am going to jump on this as soon as possible! I guess I have a work around for not having an available refrigerator too; I can leave it outside. It is definitely cold enough here for the next few months to get that beer nice and cold!
 
so as far as carbonating my beer while it is in the keg, would I be able to force carbonate with these set ups? or would I still have to prime it as usual?

You will never have to prime again (unless you want to). You can just primary and then keg. Even better - primary, cold crash, keg. Even better - primary, add gelatin, cold crash, keg.

In a pinch, with a fast acting yeast such as Safale - 04, you can go from keg to glass in around 10 days.
 
well, if that's true then I am going to jump on this as soon as possible! I guess I have a work around for not having an available refrigerator too; I can leave it outside. It is definitely cold enough here for the next few months to get that beer nice and cold!

I bought my setup thinking I could run the first keg in a tub with ice. FOr the money I spent on ice that week, I would have had half the money for the fridge. Do whatever it takes to get into kegging, you will NEVER look back.
 
I was able to get a basic starter system (2 kegs, 10# tank, regulator) for a great price through Rebel Brewer by shopping around.

Just had a comment on getting a CO2 tank with the kit, first check with where you will get your refills whether they do actual refills or just swap bottles because it will kill you the first time you go to get a refill and they tell you that they will give you a beaten up steel tank for you nice shiny new alluminium one!
 
as far as filling the CO2 tank, how much does something like that run? I know it may vary locally, but are we talking a chunk of cash or few bucks?
 
as far as filling the CO2 tank, how much does something like that run? I know it may vary locally, but are we talking a chunk of cash or few bucks?

Should be under $20 for a co2 fill

As you said it will most likely vary somewhat depending on where you are (and because of that there is no reason for me to even tell you what I have been quoted), one thing I have noticed on the various threads talking about CO2 prices is that it seems to cost less (per lb) to fill a larger tank compared with a smaller one.

How much do you get for $20 JRems?
 
Just had a comment on getting a CO2 tank with the kit, first check with where you will get your refills whether they do actual refills or just swap bottles because it will kill you the first time you go to get a refill and they tell you that they will give you a beaten up steel tank for you nice shiny new alluminium one!

I was afraid of that as well! That's why I got a used 10# tank with my kit instead of a new, aluminum 5# (no price difference). That way I had twice the capacity and didn't care if the tanks were swapped or refilled (as it turns out, my place refills for $15).
 
although priming isnt necessary with a keg, the beer will benefit from additional rest anyway...so while you may be able to get it to a carbonated state faster, it may not be as tasty.

as to chilling, i think its chest freezer or go home. im not sure i see the value in any other alternative given the much greater options with a keezer. get one of craigslist, i paid $50 for mine, better than any dorm fridge at any price.

if you want to go real budget, 10' of line, a keg, picnic taps and a co2 tank with a single regulator and a freezer with a temp controller (johnson or equiv)

over time add more kegs, taps, collar or tower, manifolds and all that crap. IMHO an extra co2 tank is pretty much essential before long, usually you realize this after your first empty tank at an inconvenient time with no refill place either local or open.

with equipment purchases like kegging, i think its generally worth saving to buy the right stuff/good stuff than trying to save money by buying crappier stuff that wont hold you long term, wont perform to expectations or just wont work right.

save to buy perlicks, use picnics until then. buy the right bev lines from the start, dont try to make cheap vinyl hose work, you want thick wall bev line. get more line than you think you need. if you are doing two taps, nothing wrong with getting 30 or 50 feet, cutting your 10' sections from that and having spare as youpr needs/system expands.. you may want to make jumpers for keg to keg transfers, etc.

get MLF connects instead of plain barbs, more expense but a better overall option with more versatility.

i would get a gas manifold before i got a second regulator... i think for most starting out, a second regulator is unnecessary/optional, not required.

get gaskets/orings for any un-reconditioned kegs and backups for your existing kegs, like running out of gas in your co2 tank, discovering a keg gas leak and not having the supplies to fix it is a drag.
 
FWIW $18.00 for 5# tank refill-not exchange-in NE Ohio. I can get at least 5 kegs worth from one tank.

-d
 
Just a note, you CAN prime in a keg but it will leave extra sediment at the bottom. Also, there is absolutely no evidence which suggests that priming improves the taste of beer.
 
wow, i do not regret finally posting on here. you guys swarmed all over this post like furious african bees! i think im ready to make the jump and actually may have found 2 refrigerators that I can get for free!

someday I'd like to have enough knowledge to actually ANSWER some questions, instead of asking them!
 
and if you go with a good/used fridge you wont need to buy temp controller.

(its what i use) and during the holidays it gets used for food overflow. (my wife love this)

one day I will get a chest freezer but I am in no hurry, the garage fridge is the best thing I bought(other than kegs).
 
Where do you go for your refills? I'm in the Cleveland area, the only place I have found is PraxAir who just does exchanges for around $15

While not familiar with your area, you should look into shops that service Fire Extinguishers. That's where I get my tank filled here in Chicago and they do it quickly and cheaply (<10 mins and $15 for a 10# tank).
 
wow you guys are getting bent over and serviced with out lube.

for my 5# tank at the local welding supply store its $7 to refill

-=Jason=-
 
and if you go with a good/used fridge you wont need to buy temp controller.

(its what i use) and during the holidays it gets used for food overflow. (my wife love this)

one day I will get a chest freezer but I am in no hurry, the garage fridge is the best thing I bought(other than kegs).

I agree, a used fridge is just as good. Jamil has said that chest freezer's can have condensation issues because they are not meant to run a refrigerator temperatures. I've never experienced it though as I don't have a chest freezer.
 
Where do you go for your refills? I'm in the Cleveland area, the only place I have found is PraxAir who just does exchanges for around $15

AAA gas supply on Hilliard just E of McKinley in lakewood is where I fill.
 
Where do you go for your refills? I'm in the Cleveland area, the only place I have found is PraxAir who just does exchanges for around $15

can't think of the name off hand, the gas/welding supply place right at 305th and the marginal in wickliff does re-rills. cost me $17 to fill a 10lb tank
 
Update for Cleveland, OH folks:

On the west side, Champion Fire will fill-not exchange-a 5# tank for $6.50. They're @ W. 53rd. & Lorain. I've only talked to the guy but he sounds like a straight up dude. 7am-4pm M-F. My next fill is going to be there. Thanks to Ace Club for the Fire extinguisher angle!
 
Pin lock vs. ball lock kegs...does it matter? The pin lock kegs seem a little cheaper most places ($10 less per keg at KegConnection), so I'm just wondering whether there's any disadvantage to them.
 
i think it matters less now - more important for you to choose one or the other so you can minimize parts overall. perhaps more difficult to get pinlocks in 2.5, 3gal sizes. if that doesn't matter to you, then not much diff.
 
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