Prepping for first extract brew - Questions

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nandemo1

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I am getting ready to jump into my first brew using a kit from Midwest: their Honey Nut Brown Ale with the Wyeast 1098 Activator. I'm looking to do things as close to the "right" way as possible. Yeah, going the extract route is cutting corners, but I didn't feel that I should do an all grain quite the first time out.

Since this is all new to me, I have a few basic questions:

1) I'm planning on doing a full boil, so I am trying to figure out how much water to start out with. Would six gallons be a safe bet to get under five by the time the boil is over?

2) Also, since the kit is typically meant for partial boils, do I need to make any adjustments to the recipe given that this will be a full boil? Any recommendations on when to throw in the LME and honey?

3) Should I make a yeast starter for this first attempt or can I get pretty good results just using the Activator? I received the kit about eight days ago and have kept the smackpack refrigerated since then, so I would hope the yeast are still pretty happy in there.

Thanks in advance for the help!
~Nicholas
 
Welcome to the obsess...er...hobby! :mug: You'll find a lifetime's worth of enjoyment.

Let's take your questions in order.

1) I'm planning on doing a full boil, so I am trying to figure out how much water to start out with. Would six gallons be a safe bet to get under five by the time the boil is over?

There's no way to tell, really. The great thing is if you start with six and end up with 4.5, you can just top off to five gallons in the fermenter.

2) Also, since the kit is typically meant for partial boils, do I need to make any adjustments to the recipe given that this will be a full boil? Any recommendations on when to throw in the LME and honey?

No adjustments are needed. Since you're doing full boil, add all the LME at once in the beginning.

Honey fanciers argue violently about whether or not to boil honey. I find pasteurization works fine; honey can carry spoilage microbes. I add it when I switch off the heat. By the time the chiller gets the wort below pasteurization temperature enough time has elapsed to ensure sanitation.

I feel boiling drives off the delicate aromatics of the honey. So I get the best of both worlds - a sanitary wort and yummy honey goodness - by pasteurization, not boiling.

3) Should I make a yeast starter for this first attempt or can I get pretty good results just using the Activator? I received the kit about eight days ago and have kept the smackpack refrigerated since then, so I would hope the yeast are still pretty happy in there.

No smack-pack or vial contains enough yeast to properly do the job. If you have the ability to make a starter, do so. There's plenty of information on starter-making here on HBT; the search function is your friend. ;)

If you lack the equipment to brew a starter, however, don't sweat it too much. Plenty of brewers are successful just pitching the contents of a smack-pack.

Good luck, and again WELCOME!

Bob
 
Yeah, going the extract route is cutting corners, but I didn't feel that I should do an all grain quite the first time out.

Since this is all new to me, I have a few basic questions:

1) I'm planning on doing a full boil, so I am trying to figure out how much water to start out with. Would six gallons be a safe bet to get under five by the time the boil is over?

2) Also, since the kit is typically meant for partial boils, do I need to make any adjustments to the recipe given that this will be a full boil? Any recommendations on when to throw in the LME and honey?

3) Should I make a yeast starter for this first attempt or can I get pretty good results just using the Activator? I received the kit about eight days ago and have kept the smackpack refrigerated since then, so I would hope the yeast are still pretty happy in there.

Thanks in advance for the help!
~Nicholas

Nicholas, don't worry about extract brewing. Although I brew pretty much exclusively AG, people make wonderful beers through the extract method. There are so many steps involved with brewing that can have just as much if not more impact on flavor than extract vs. AG.

1. 6 gallons should boil down to under 5 assuming you have a nice boil. Most people AG brewing brew outside with the aid of a high-pressure regulated burner - it takes a good bit of heat to get that much wort boiling.

2. If the recipe calls for a late extract addition (say, the last 10 min), then - No, don't make adjustments other than adding all of the extract at the beginning of the boil. If the recipe doesn't call for a late addition, one could make an argument for reducing the bittering hop addition - I'm not sure if I would worry about it though as it would be such a small difference (talking about a few grams probably).

3. A starter can hardly have an adverse effect on fermentation except for extreme cases. Starters can help assure healthy fermentations with low lag times and appropriate ester formation, but aren't the determining factor in if a beer is great or not. In fact, I've had smack packs (smacked for 4-6 hours) that took off in a few hours and blew airlocks!

To the point of the other processes, I would suggest that any extra time/money you have goes towards controlling the fermentation temperature. If you ferment at/beyond the recommended temperature range of a particular yeast, you will be more disappointed than if your fermentation started earlier or had (technically) an inadequate amount of cells to get the job done.

RDWBAHB (Relax, Don't worry, BREW a home brew)

The fact you care means you're more than likely going to have a good product right out of the gate :rockin:
 
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