Propane leak on stand

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Captain_Bigelow

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Hi, just got my new stand. Everything seems good except I have a gas leak. The gas escaping from between the bottom of the nut and copper tubing. I marked the leak on the pic below with the white arrow.

Any one know the best way to fix it? Is there some kind of gas-proof tape I can wrap around it or something?

stand.jpg
 
That appears to be a flared connection. The cause of the leak could be one of several things. The flared end on the tubing may be faulty or damaged. If so, you can cut the tubing and use a flaring tool to make a new flared end. The flare nut on the tubing must mate with a matching flare adapter on the valve. The fitting between the flare nut and the valve must not be an ordinary pipe nipple. The flare on the tubing won't have anything to seat on if that is the case. You don't need or want to use teflon tape or sealant on the flared connection. The seal is made by the nut forcing the soft copper against the matching male flare fitting. The copper flare gets squashed against the face of the male part and because the copper is soft, it should seal. Assuming you have the right adapter and the there's nothing wrong with the flare on the end of the tubing, you could try simply tightening it up more. Sometimes if the flare on the tubing is not done correctly, it can split and that will cause a leak. I would take it apart and make sure that you have the correct fittings and inspect the flared end of the tubing for defects. Did you put this together yourself or did someone else do the work? If it was someone else, there is the chance that they didn't use the right fittings. The good news is that it should be easy to fix. It appears that there is a lot of teflon tape on the fitting above the flare nut. This leads me to think that whoever put this together did not really know what they were doing. Maybe that's just excess tape where the male adapter was threaded into the valve. That thread would require tape or pipe thread sealant. If you still can't fix the leak after you check all of the above, take it apart and take some close up pics of the fittings and we can take another shot at it.
 
No tape as that's a flare fitting connection.
Did you have a proper amount of copper flare diameter inside the nut?
Does the flare itself have a clean smooth surface as well the brass flare's
contact area not dinged or damaged?
If all's good did you torque the nut down enough allowing the soft
copper to crush a little and conform to the irregular surfaces of the
brass fittings flare? I see no reason for a leak unless the connection
has first not been tightened down to seat and seal properly.
 
You are right, the end of the pipe is dented where it is flared. I need to cut the end off and re-flare I guess. Now I need to pick up a flare tool.
 
Find a friend in the automotive repair business or borrow one unless you plan on purchasing a flaring tool for your future use. Northern Tool for a "El Cheapo" or better yet purchase an Imperial Eastman Corporation double Flaring too set for thin-wall tubing. This from 3/16" to 1/2" in 1/16" step increases. Best tool investment one could ever buy. Starting price $50 to $67 on up, shop around. They can be had in SAE, Metric, 45 and 37 degree as well double flare a must for automotive brake and high pressure lines.http://www.newmantools.com/imperial/index.html#flaring
 
Make sure to also pick up another brass or copper ferrule, as the one on the current join will be crushed.

Avoid over tightening, as it is just as bad for this type of connection as under tightening.
 
Make sure to also pick up another brass or copper ferrule, as the one on the current join will be crushed.

Avoid over tightening, as it is just as bad for this type of connection as under tightening.

This is not applicable. The connection a flare type, not a compression fitting.
 
:off: slightly -

I am surely no expert on welding but I would make sure to do a pressure test on that set up. That is not exactly what I would call a professional looking welding job and having the gas flowing through that stand would cause me to worry. Grinder anyone?
 
You can pick up a flaring kit at HF for about $10-15. While not the quality of the ones Beemer mentioned, will do the job.

Yep. I went to Home Depot earlier and their basic flaring kit was $25. I went to Harbor Freight and picked up a kit for $10 which also included a cutter. It is not great quality but should work for this one job.

For those of you commenting about the stand, it is a 2 tier stand from Pinup's brewersequipment.com. Generally the welds look real good, I think that one looks bad because the close up of the camera or something. I will be posting pics and review of the stand soon.
 
I think you should be fine by re-flaring the tubing. One caution about the HF flaring kit - keep your receipt. the flaring piece broke on me on the first flare I made - took it back and exchanged it - managed to complete my flaring project with the new tool but don't know how much longer it will last.
 
I think you should be fine by re-flaring the tubing. One caution about the HF flaring kit - keep your receipt. the flaring piece broke on me on the first flare I made - took it back and exchanged it - managed to complete my flaring project with the new tool but don't know how much longer it will last.

Now that's scary, made in China I bet vs the flaring sets used for automotive and aircraft I used for a living (37 and 45 degree flares) purchased 37 years ago and still going strong. I'm not a Snap-On snob but use high quality tools when I need them for a living, all Proto as I had a 45% off list years ago. Glad ya got it reflared and up and running, cheers bro. Carl. "He who makes no mistakes does nothing".
 
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